Aussie SMLE No3 + Japanese matchlock

Ranchero50 · Feb 10, 2016

Picked up a pretty nice SMLE No3. Reicever is stamped M.A> Lithgow S.M.L.E. III 1941, butt stock has 1943 and a R MAO 6/45 stamps. Most of the metal looks parkerized or phosphated. Wood has brass pins with a coating of Poly but minimal dings. Been wanting one of these for a long time but kept seeing trashed ones for really high prices. Wonder what its history is?

Trying to figure out what the match lock is, took some pics while waiting for the NICS to come back. It has no screws and shows a lot of firing wear. The shop wasn't sure if it was a repro of something original.

iH8DemLibz · Feb 10, 2016

Chrysanthemum and Cherry Blossoms.

Very nice.

KH195 · Feb 10, 2016

Cool Tanegashima.....if it's original and signed I think it would likely be on the underside of the barrel near the breach plug, so would require delicate disassembly to check. Most originals were made in the later 18th century through 19th century from what I've read. Some of the later ones weren't of fantastic quality and more more for a "tourist" market. That said I know next to nothing about them and have no clue how to tell if yours is authentic, but I know there are a few books out there that may be helpful:

Shigeo Sugawa's "The Japanese Matchlock - A Story of the Tanegashima"
Noel Perrin's "Giving Up the Gun, Japan's Revision to the Sword, 1545-1879"

There are also several matchlock collectors in the Japanese section of Gunboards.com, if you posted there I'm sure someone could probably give you more info.

Ranchero50 · Feb 10, 2016

KH195 said:
Cool Tanegashima.....if it's original and signed I think it would likely be on the underside of the barrel near the breach plug, so would require delicate disassembly to check. Most originals were made in the later 18th century through 19th century from what I've read. Some of the later ones weren't of fantastic quality and more more for a "tourist" market. That said I know next to nothing about them and have no clue how to tell if yours is authentic, but I know there are a few books out there that may be helpful:

Shigeo Sugawa's "The Japanese Matchlock - A Story of the Tanegashima"
Noel Perrin's "Giving Up the Gun, Japan's Revision to the Sword, 1545-1879"

There are also several matchlock collectors in the Japanese section of Gunboards.com, if you posted there I'm sure someone could probably give you more info.

It feels cheaply built but shows signs of use so I don't know. The stock splits in half vertically and the brass appliques aren't held on very well. The wood appears really old so who knows it's history. Interesting stuff you find in a pawn shop. I couldn't imagine firing one.

Been browsing the net to find out more on the SMLE. It's a 5 groove bore with sharp lands the looks like chrome. Need to find it some food too.

mawkie · Feb 10, 2016

Congrats on the acquisitions! Don't know diddly about the matchlock but pretend to know a bit about Enfields. The parkerized finish on the Lithy is original and correct. The shiny varnish/poly finish isn't but that's easy to remove with some care (I use citrus based strippers). Then treat to linseed oil (I use raw linseed oil). She was FTR'd at least once in '45 as marked on the buttstock. Can't tell from the photo but see if the middle band isn't brass, another distinctively Aussie item. It would have been blackened at the factory (shiny brass isn't a plus in the field). Lithgows were always built to high standards and are one of my favorites when it comes to SMLEs.

Ranchero50 · Feb 10, 2016

Mawkie, the Matchlock isn't mine, actually the shop didn't know how to price it as they don't know it's age or history.

I picked up the SMLE for $275 and yes, it does have the blackened brass middle band. I'll use your advice per the linseed oil once it's stripped. First I need to figure out how to take it apart safely so I can strip it. I also want to get a period correct sling for it. I'm curious if it'll even fire as it looks like the firing pin is screwed too far into the block at the back and it's missing it's retaining screw. Little things.

mawkie · Feb 12, 2016

-The only rub to removing the furniture on a SMLE is in the sequence. Make sure you remove the forestock before the buttstock. Assembly is in reverse order.
Sometimes the forestock sticks so I use a soft wood block to tap it off (forestock goes straight down, away from the action).
-As to the FP protrusion, you'll need to buy a FP removal tool (you'll find these everywhere) to be able to disassemble the bolt as you need to take out the FP spring to check protrusion. The other little bits to the bolt are easily obtained. There's a good video up on Youtube that shows bolt take down and how to check adjust the FP protrusion.
-I use Springfield sporters for my SMLE parts source. Russell has a nice inventory of Lithgow bits and his prices are very good. Numrich is another good source for SMLE bits. Their customer service is excellent. Good luck getting her range ready!

Aussie SMLE No3 + Japanese matchlock

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