1911 Extractor Tension

bigalf · Jul 21, 2014

Hello Shooters
I have had an AMT 40S&W 1911 for a while now. It never extracted or ran very well. I bought it from a dealer, so I assumed it would be G2G, obviously not. I have worked on it a little over the years off and on, but still no luck. I believe the issue is with the extractor. I have played with it several times trying to bend it by hand using the extractor channel and trial and error. Anyone know a better way to do it. Debating buying a new extractor to test, but also trying to avoid the $30 those run. Ideas, thoughts comments welcome.

Pinecone · Jul 21, 2014

Brownells has a extractor tension tester. You snap it in, and pull it out with a trigger pull gauge.

But unless you have a trigger pull gauge, you will spend more on the tool and pull gauge than a new extractor.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ls/extractor-tension-gauge-set-prod16125.aspx

Nanook · Jul 21, 2014

Well, it's a .40, what did you expect?

J/K...

What kind of lube are you using in there?

Does the extractor not grab the case at all or does it not pull it back if it grabs?

mike_in_md · Jul 21, 2014

I have used the method the same method as the OP to correct extractor tension successfully.

With the slide off, does the extractor hold the round? You should be able to gently shake the slide and the extractor should hold it. It shouldn't be too tight to where the round will not fall out when shaken medium hard.

Also, with 1911's you need to remove and clean under the extractor and the channel it is in about every thousand rounds or so. A dirty 1911 extractor area will cause malfunctions eventually.

Check the ejector operation as well. After the steps above for the extractor, put slide back on and use a dummy round and test it. You will be able to see what is going on better manually racking the slide with the dummy round.

If all else fails, it could be the recoil spring contributing to the problem. If the brass ejects too far away, the spring is too light for your ammo, too close and the spring is too heavy.

eightshot627 · Jul 21, 2014

New extractors need to be tension too so just buying a new one won't get you there either. I have used the method you and mike_in_md described with success.

There is always an Aftec Extractor.

Good Luck,
Walt

Magnumite · Jul 21, 2014

AMT has a reputation for spotty quality and machining. There could be some incorrect dimensions, had an AMT slide in 45 ACP which had the breechface displaced .025" to the left. It would extract or feed 100% but not both. You may want to verify it is a 40 slide not could a 45 breech face.

That said if the extractor is fatigued retensioning is only a stop gap fix - the problem will recur. It is possible to destroy good mags also.

The tension is just one aspect of extractor tuning. A common tension test is to remove the slide from the pistol. Slide a loaded round up the breech face from the bottom of the slide with the extractor engaging the rim. The round should be held there under light shaking of the slide. Not as precise as the gauge and tensioner set up but it works.

Hook depth, shape, width, rim engagement and polish are also 'adjusted' during injector tuning. I believe the 40/10mm extractors have the tunnel lug on the hook side like the 45 extractors and it is used to set the hook engagement in the rim.

Read the following link and check out the diagram on post #22. You could do all this to your present extractor first since it could be insufficiently tuned.

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=461986&highlight=extractor+tuning

A common problem with many extractors is the rear of the groove extends beyond the breech face of the slide. The EGW HD extractors are machined to eliminate this. Fitting an EGW firing pin stop would also be prudent to prevent extractor clocking (rotating).

Hope this helps.

bigalf · Jul 21, 2014

Thanks for all the responses, I have tried to place the round on the breach face with varying degrees of tightness. Sometimes it holds tight other time loose, but there is always a FTE. I have spend a good amount of time on this but haven't found that sweet spot as of yet.
I kind of ruled out the ejector because it appears to be undamaged and is not adjustable.When they do eject they land in a uniform area, but that is just using hand pressure to rack the slide.
Honestly the gun is super accurate and I had it Nickel plated so not it looks good too. I would really like to get it to a point where its reliable, Ill never carry it but its my only .40 plinker.

Magnumite · Jul 21, 2014

What is the nature of the FTE? Emprty case in chamber, round being fed? Stove pipe? Case jambed into magazine?

Also do the following. At range insert loaded magazine and chamber a round. Remove the mag. Shoot the round and using your peripheral vision note the ejection of the fired case. Repeat for the entire magazine. All the cases should eject strongly to the side. If the case dribbles ove the side of yhe pistol or down through the magwell, extractor is toast. If it rechambers a fired case the ejector nose is rounded, broken or otherwise defective. It is posible for wear of the pistol will change relationships enough the ejector no longer properly strikes the rim of the case. Did the plater alter the ejector? Empty pistol, slide in battery, look through the back of the slide where the ejector is located. The right side of the ejector shoukd be very close to the right side of the ejector cut out in the slide. Look at the nose of the ejector. It should be nice and squared on the upper inside (breech face side) of the nose of the ejector. At most yhere may be slight little bevel on that corner.

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