Who Anneals...

[DocSavage]

300BLK that is..

So hear me out. Much has been said by many of you smarter than I could ever be about the intricacies of annealing brass cases. Grain structure, case hardness, durability, etc. I've soaked all of it up and have come up with a good way of annealing in my own modest process by adapting some of the following.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c

Sorry for the overly dramatic intro, not my idea...

Anyway, for those of us who process 300BLK, it stands to reason that the mere act of cutting cases to rough length removes the entire section that turns funny colored in the annealing process.

So question is... Do you re-anneal the sized cases for 300BLK? If were talking about maintaining strength and longevity of the cases and reducing neck splitting, then it seems the answer is an obvious yes. Throwing this out there for the metallurgically inclined.

Hose jockey here, so simple terms are best!

Thanks,

Doc

 

[coopermania]

300BLK that is..

So hear me out. Much has been said by many of you smarter than I could ever be about the intricacies of annealing brass cases. Grain structure, case hardness, durability, etc. I've soaked all of it up and have come up with a good way of annealing in my own modest process by adapting some of the following.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c

Sorry for the overly dramatic intro, not my idea...

Anyway, for those of us who process 300BLK, it stands to reason that the mere act of cutting cases to rough length removes the entire section that turns funny colored in the annealing process.

So question is... Do you re-anneal the sized cases for 300BLK? If were talking about maintaining strength and longevity of the cases and reducing neck splitting, then it seems the answer is an obvious yes. Throwing this out there for the metallurgically inclined.

Hose jockey here, so simple terms are best!

Thanks,

Doc

I don't shoot 300, But i do form a lot of brass for other calibers. Sometimes bepending on how much I need to change the cartridge I anneal brass before forming, again after the first step of forming and again after all forming and trimming is done.
I would anneal 300 brass after I cut it off and before I formed the neck only if I was using once fired brass. With new brass I would anneal when all forming and trimming was done.
I am sorta anal when it comes to reloading so I tend to over do some things.
Plus for annealing I have a Giraud automatic trimmer so it is easy to get it done.

 

[John from MD]

I shoot 300 Blackout but have not seen any reason to anneal them yet.

On all the other bottleneck calibers that I form and reload, the necks will start getting soot on them, the reports will be different, my groups will open up and the expander will be harder to extract when it comes time to anneal them.

When I do anneal, I just use the dark room with a propane torch and bucket of water. Been doing it that way since the sixties and see no reason to change now.

John

 

[DocSavage]

Thanks for the knowledge! Once again, this forum doesn't disappoint!!

Doc

 

[Weber]

I do not, but can.

I anneal 223 and 308. 300 blkout seems to need less case prep. The cases grow less, so less trimming is needed, and I haven't had any split or crack.