300BLK that is..
So hear me out. Much has been said by many of you smarter than I could ever be about the intricacies of annealing brass cases. Grain structure, case hardness, durability, etc. I've soaked all of it up and have come up with a good way of annealing in my own modest process by adapting some of the following.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c
Sorry for the overly dramatic intro, not my idea...
Anyway, for those of us who process 300BLK, it stands to reason that the mere act of cutting cases to rough length removes the entire section that turns funny colored in the annealing process.
So question is... Do you re-anneal the sized cases for 300BLK? If were talking about maintaining strength and longevity of the cases and reducing neck splitting, then it seems the answer is an obvious yes. Throwing this out there for the metallurgically inclined.
Hose jockey here, so simple terms are best!
Thanks,
Doc
So hear me out. Much has been said by many of you smarter than I could ever be about the intricacies of annealing brass cases. Grain structure, case hardness, durability, etc. I've soaked all of it up and have come up with a good way of annealing in my own modest process by adapting some of the following.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c
Sorry for the overly dramatic intro, not my idea...
Anyway, for those of us who process 300BLK, it stands to reason that the mere act of cutting cases to rough length removes the entire section that turns funny colored in the annealing process.
So question is... Do you re-anneal the sized cases for 300BLK? If were talking about maintaining strength and longevity of the cases and reducing neck splitting, then it seems the answer is an obvious yes. Throwing this out there for the metallurgically inclined.
Hose jockey here, so simple terms are best!
Thanks,
Doc