What did I get into?

[CaptainVane]

Back when I had my Hawken it was real black powder and a flint.
Now i reading that real BP has become a dinosaur and synthetic loads have taken over. Triple7, some 209 stuff. 40 grains of BP aint 40 grains anymore. And dont get me started on different percussion caps matching to the type of synthetic powder.
Used to be simple. My head is spinning!

 

[dannyp]

you can still get black powder , it's just hard to find . i'd call clyde's sports shop on the other side of town first , ( hammonds ferry road ) if not shyda's in harrisburg . edit , you can call the saint firearms in essex for substitutes .

 

[CaptainVane]

Ya, real bp is highly corrosive. This new stuff says way less corrosive and less smoky. Learning curve ahead, i just don’t want to explode the pistol.

 

[boule]

Back when I had my Hawken it was real black powder and a flint.
Now i reading that real BP has become a dinosaur and synthetic loads have taken over.

What are you exactly complaining of? The fact that there are muzzleloaders that, when using BP replacements in pelleted form and Sabots with sub-caliber bullets, generate more muzzle velocity and are "easier" to reload? Are you complaining that there were muzzleloaders (Savage made one) that used smokeless powders?

Inline-Muzzleloaders with BP-replacements became popular due to the muzzleloader regulations on hunting. You get something that feels like your cartidge rifle, that shoots flatter and further than the old smokestick and can be cleaned easier? Guess what 90% of hunters will use.

Your old stuff will still work. If you want to shoot a flintlock, get a flintlock and go shoot it. It will still work just back when you had to pick it up due to the brits showing up. The downside is just a little bit more cleaning.

 

[CaptainVane]

Confused cause i read original BP is hard to find but new stuff while much better i not sure what to use.

 

[CaptainVane]

Going to muzzle load shop , guess he will can advise.

 

[TI-tick]

I've experienced that feeling on more than a few dates!

 

[boule]

Confused cause i read original BP is hard to find but new stuff while much better i not sure what to use.

What kind of muzzleloader are you using it in?

Flintlock - at least prime with BP
percussion side lock - replacements can work, your milage may vary.
inline - replacements will work


My personal opinion is strongly biased towards BP. Nonethless, if you use a percussion or inline muzzle loader and Pryodex or 777 are available in your area, feel free to use those.

 

[Pale Ryder]

I have 3 BP guns. All have only been shot with the Pyrodex substitute. Still measures the same, volume. One is Hawken style with percussion cap the other two are In lines that use pellets and 209 primers. Pretty easy to use. Still have to clean at the end of the day, no big deal though.

 

[Bullfrog]

I've experienced that feeling on more than a few dates!

Uh oh. Started messing around and found a musket where you didn't expect to see one?

 

[CaptainVane]

Uberti Remington Navy .36. Always used FFFg 55grains in my Hawken, but this pistol is a whole new thing.

 

[Uncle Duke]

OP mentioned flintlock TC Hawken in opening post. Pre-inline era. Thinking he likely only remembers a time when black powder, and maybe to include Pyrodex a bit later on, were all that was available. Thinking 70's or 80's??? Guessing....

But then he shifted. He is apparently actually asking about percussion pistol powder recommendations. See his
post 3.

Ya, real bp is highly corrosive. This new stuff says way less corrosive and less smoky. Learning curve ahead, i just don’t want to explode the pistol.

 

[TI-tick]

Uberti Remington Navy .36. Always used FFFg 55grains in my Hawken, but this pistol is a whole new thing.

I have two Navy 36 BP from Cabellas. Only used BP. But it's been a while. Wound be open to less corrosive substitutes when my BP supply runs out.

 

[Treedoc1]

"Ya, real bp is highly corrosive. This new stuff says way less corrosive and less smoky. Learning curve ahead, i just don’t want to explode the pistol."

Old wives tale. 777 and pyrodex are more corrosive than black. I have gone an entire cowboy shooting season with out a detail clean on Ruger Vaqeuros, 1873 toggle link Winchester, 1887 lever Winchester shotgun and assorted SXS. Ballistol and water spritzed and wiped down after the match. A good organic non petroleum based lube is needed. The corrosive properties came from early primer salts. Primers today, not so corrosive.

Ok contrarians...flame away.

 

[Treedoc1]

North side of Winchester VA...hundreds of lbs available for pickup or UPS. http://www.blackpowderva.com/

 

[mauser58]

Used to be primitive hunting years ago when I hunted with my first CVA. Blackpowder and round ball and #11 cap. Now not so primitive. So easy to load now with these break open in lines.

 

[boule]

Ok contrarians...flame away.

Primers are just one component, the other is the burn residue of SP. The major adversial component is potassium hydroxide which is not just sufficiently hygroscopic also tends to be quite aggressive towards metals. Additionally, you always get an incomplete burn from the sulfur in the mixture and combined with moisture sulfurous acid in very small quantitites.

So yeah, just the burn residue is not really nice on the gun. In late-summer humidity, you do want to do something about it rather sooner than later.

I'll just smoke away and clean afterwards :-)

 

[The Saint]

As mentioned in another post...BP is my specialty and I'm likely the only shop in MD that specializes in it. Would be glad to help if you need it..and will certainly save you money over internet sales...

 

[Mike OTDP]

Treedoc 1 is right. Stay clear of the substitutes. Use real black powder.

 

[linkstate]

Just a few notes on what I remember when getting setup a few years ago.

Just get FFF BP for your Remington Navy.

Get a good measure and powder flask. I like the ones by Ted Cash

Get a couple good nipple wrenches and break the stock nipples loose before firing. The folks at Uberti must use a 12 ft cheater to tighten them. Consider anti-seize for the threads but may not be necessary.

Remington #10 caps seem to fit the stock nipples best.

Order stainless nipples from Track Of the Wolf that are designed for CCI #11 caps. CCI caps always seemed easier to find. Not sure now a days. I had to file the slot on one of the nipple wrenches for a good fit. Standard caps are fine but CCI magnums were more prevelant when I loaded up years ago. They both work fine with BP. Maybe theere is an accuracy difference but I just do it for fun.

Get some Bore Butter or similar non petroleum grease and lube the cylinder pin (On a colt it's called an arbor, I forget if same on the Remington). I have found the need to remove the cylinder and reapply more grease after a couple cylinder fulls unlike a Colt with the thicker ribbed arbor).

Round balls from say Hornady are .375. I have found larger diameter balls seal better and give you that thin shave ring of lead. For that you will need to go boutique like track of the wolf for that. I think I've used .376 and .380. At least on an Uberti Colt Navy I have. My Uberti Remington is a .44 cal. Hornady make more sizes in .44.

I like the felt wads and add some bore butter to them to seal the chamber.

I use a wooden dowel to seat the caps in the off chance the cap goes off I don't want a jet flame of BP searing my thumb. There is at least one pic online that taught be that.

In case you need to remove caps on live chambers, have a brass or wooden wedge of some kind to pry them off if they are tight.

All of the above is just what I learned. Not all of it is necessary as far as buying more stuff but I feel like it makes it more enjoyable.

Oh, have fun!