What broadheads do you use?

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  • Melnic

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 27, 2012
    15,380
    HoCo
    Montec 100 grain. Seems to work well.



    I use the G5 Striker which is the same with a replaceable blade set
    I am no expert but I did not want to fool with the mechanical plus I use the same broadhead on my target block I will hunt with and not a practice version .
    Talked to a few that said not to use mechanical to start with. They reported to me their mechanicals a few times did not open up quick enough

    As I'm not experienced with a mechanical I had doubts to how big of an entrance wound it would make

    I figured at least one big hole on the way in was a good thing. With a fixed.

    How far in before the mechanical opens up?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    DJones2987

    Active Member
    Dec 6, 2016
    645
    Hagerstown
    I use the G5 Striker which is the same with a replaceable blade set
    I am no expert but I did not want to fool with the mechanical plus I use the same broadhead on my target block I will hunt with and not a practice version .
    Talked to a few that said not to use mechanical to start with. They reported to me their mechanicals a few times did not open up quick enough

    As I'm not experienced with a mechanical I had doubts to how big of an entrance wound it would make

    I figured at least one big hole on the way in was a good thing. With a fixed.

    How far in before the mechanical opens up?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I use Rage Hypodermic 2 blade mechanical broadheads. They open on impact, never had a deer walk away from one. Leave about a 2" slice in and out.
     

    Sticky

    Beware of Dog
    MDS Supporter
    Mar 16, 2013
    4,503
    AA Co
    I use the G5 Striker which is the same with a replaceable blade set
    I am no expert but I did not want to fool with the mechanical plus I use the same broadhead on my target block I will hunt with and not a practice version .
    Talked to a few that said not to use mechanical to start with. They reported to me their mechanicals a few times did not open up quick enough

    As I'm not experienced with a mechanical I had doubts to how big of an entrance wound it would make

    I figured at least one big hole on the way in was a good thing. With a fixed.

    How far in before the mechanical opens up?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I use a lot of G5 heads (both fixed and expandables, depending on what I am hunting from (I only use fixed from a ground blind)) and this season I shot a doe, was walking straight away from me and she only quartered slightly as she walked away. I let a G5 Havoc fly as soon as she gave me a little bit of front shoulder visible. Hit her mid-side and I can tell you, the blades were opened before they even penetrated the skin. It cut a 4" long slice in the hide on the way in, punched all the way through her and stopped on the offside shoulder. The shaft was buried up to the fletch and she just laid down right in the spot where I let the arrow fly. Not even a quiver. It was a very hard quartering shot, which I took partly to test the effectiveness of the Havoc. I was very impressed by the results!

    I broadhead tune my bows, so my field points hit at the same point of impact as my fixed blade broadheads, so I can practice all season long with field points and not mess with practice heads at all. My Strikers and Havocs all hit the same spot as my field points.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    50,088
    Any broadhead on the market will and does kill deer. It's all about being able to hit the x when it comes to crunch time. Keeping your whits about you while your heart is jumping out of your chest. For me, once I decide to shoot a particular deer, I no longer 'look at the deer', I look only at a spot on the deer and anticipate the deer's entrance into the shooting lane. The rest is autopilot.
     

    Devonian

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 15, 2008
    1,199
    Any broadhead on the market will and does kill deer. It's all about being able to hit the x when it comes to crunch time. Keeping your whits about you while your heart is jumping out of your chest. For me, once I decide to shoot a particular deer, I no longer 'look at the deer', I look only at a spot on the deer and anticipate the deer's entrance into the shooting lane. The rest is autopilot.

    That's some good advice. For me autopilot is unavoidable. I try to practice enough that I have confidence my muscle memory will win out over the adrenaline and nerves.
    I switched back to mechanicals this year after swearing them off and have had a good experience.
     

    Archeryrob

    Undecided on a great many things
    Mar 7, 2013
    3,121
    Washington Co. - Fairplay
    I like Outriders advice. Popping both lungs is the best advice IMO.

    Also, if you want to know alot about broadheads, don't read all the hype and marketing by industry people and pro staffers. Read the accounts of Dr. Ashby.
    http://www.grizzlystik.com/Dr.-Ed-Ashby-Reports.aspx

    He shot lots of carcasses under controlled tests in Africa and found 2 bladed broadhead had the best penetration and other things. Too many "new" things now are not better, just over hyped to make money.

    I would also like to ask, how my guys hunt broadhead just like they come, becuase I don't think they are very sharp. I file strop mine and my daughter heads and re-strop them every so many hunts as it wears fast. But they cut like hell one stropped.
     

    steves1911

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 2, 2011
    3,052
    On a hill in Wv
    A fixed 2 blade broadhead will certainly penetrate farther but most modern compounds have way more energy than is required for complete pass through on deer even with huge over the top mechanicals . My wife uses a Magnus stinger because she only pulls 50lb and has a short draw. I use a big over the top 3 blade mechanical and my arrows are usually 6" into the dirt after a complete pass through but I shoot a 440gr arrow at almost 300fps.
     

    Speed3

    Ultimate Member
    Aug 19, 2011
    7,836
    MD
    Any suggestions for a crossbow(I know it's cheating)?

    Currently shooting a 150gr muzzy 3 blade fixed at 365fps. I like to have a heavier broadhead personally, and not finding many mechanicals that are over 100gr. Im a little concerned with using mechanical blades, I don't want them to open up early and I don't want to use the rubberbands as some of them do.
     

    Neot

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 11, 2009
    2,394
    South County
    Any suggestions for a crossbow(I know it's cheating)?

    Currently shooting a 150gr muzzy 3 blade fixed at 365fps. I like to have a heavier broadhead personally, and not finding many mechanicals that are over 100gr. Im a little concerned with using mechanical blades, I don't want them to open up early and I don't want to use the rubberbands as some of them do.

    I used the 125 grain Rage Crossbow X with my crossbow this past season and was happy. The one I took early season was double lunged and ran about 50 yards and then crumpled up. The deer was maybe 20 yards away and the arrow passed through him and went another 20. The blades don't deploy until they hit due to the collar that goes at the base of the broadhead. Here's a picture from one of the deer last season.
     

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    Doco Overboard

    Ultimate Member
    BANNED!!!
    You must miss a lot!








    I kid, I kid! :lol:
    Your right Ive missed my share! makes me want to cry, but buying for all those rippers I have running around has put me in the hole, I had so many dirt shot and broken ones I could throw them out on the ground like the cop spikes they use on the road. No really I always just kept it simple using Rocky Mountain Razor 125's. but I don't see them around anymore. The oldest lad always used wasp expandables which I think work pretty well but I just use fixed blades because I think they are better for quartering shots. I shot some sika last year with cabelas mechanical s and they worked ok with a good wound channel and hemorrhage. I still like fixed blades and I think that anything that is razor sharp and flies true will do the job, mainly because fixed blades take one more error likely control measure out of the mix. Confidence is everything thing though no matter what sort of tackle is used as long as they're sharp.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    50,088
    I like Outriders advice. Popping both lungs is the best advice IMO.

    Also, if you want to know alot about broadheads, don't read all the hype and marketing by industry people and pro staffers. Read the accounts of Dr. Ashby.
    http://www.grizzlystik.com/Dr.-Ed-Ashby-Reports.aspx

    He shot lots of carcasses under controlled tests in Africa and found 2 bladed broadhead had the best penetration and other things. Too many "new" things now are not better, just over hyped to make money.

    I would also like to ask, how my guys hunt broadhead just like they come, becuase I don't think they are very sharp. I file strop mine and my daughter heads and re-strop them every so many hunts as it wears fast. But they cut like hell one stropped.

    I shoot Swackers(I know, kinda gimmicky but...), I always check the blades for sharpness. The one thing I do like about the Swackers is they are easy to disassemble and resharpen on the occasional dirt shot(I average one a year). Lansky sharpeners make this a breeze. I can get them sharper than factory, usually.
     

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