USGI BOLO; if so what to do?

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  • MaxVO2

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    No plunger on this one.

    ****Great find! Just be really careful if you decide to use more mechanical/abrasives to clean the blade up as it is easy to go overboard with that and your nice Bolo knife ends up looking like this..: :shocked4:


    bolo6.jpg
     

    TI-tick

    Ultimate Member
    BANNED!!!
    MDS Supporter
    Well, so far...

    20231101_181540.jpg
    20231101_181549.jpg
    20231101_181930.jpg
    20231101_182010.jpg

    I'm getting there. Crappy pics but if you magnify you can see the SA 1913 (maybe an ordenance bomb between) on the left, and the US over the sn on the right.

    The grip screws say screw TI-tick and I don't want to force the issue. Same as the plunger knob behind the hilt which I've gently rapped with a mallet w/o movement.

    Not my bolo but better than before...

    To leave alone for now or keep working on it?

    Maybe a MDS POLE is in order.:D
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,739
    My Pole vote would be to stop while you're ahead :)
    Maybe get some BLO on the wood.
    It looks very relic-presentable as it sits now.
     

    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,121
    In the boonies of MoCo
    My Pole vote would be to stop while you're ahead :)
    Maybe get some BLO on the wood.
    It looks very relic-presentable as it sits now.
    Seconded. You can still make out the markings, serial number, etc. you start stripping more metal away to get rid of the pitting, and you're going to lose that.

    That's definitely an ordinance bomb over the 1913.
     

    justiw

    Active Member
    Jan 26, 2012
    304
    Seconded. You can still make out the markings, serial number, etc. you start stripping more metal away to get rid of the pitting, and you're going to lose that.

    That's definitely an ordinance bomb over the 1913.
    Agree with both of you. On the handle, if the wood feels porous and dry, try light coats of BLO, probably thinned. You could also just wax it. Most recommend Mother's Carnauba car wax which is easy to find in any auto parts store. It looks in decent condition, so no major surgery.
     

    tallen702

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Sep 3, 2012
    5,121
    In the boonies of MoCo
    For anyone wanting to try another method lots of old tool sites recommend Rust Removal With Electrolysis:
    That's my go-to on most projects, especially since it won't harm the bluing.

    The thing with electrolysis is that you have to make sure you're following the directions and using the right electrolytes or the results won't be as good as expected.
     

    BFMIN

    Ultimate Member
    Nov 5, 2010
    2,810
    Eastern shore
    Kroil or PB Blaster on the grip screws, & spring mechanism, but applied locally with a Q-tip. Then just wait. Drip a drop more weekly or when it looks dry.
    Oh, unlike the Goons "You Can get the wood, Min"!
    :party29:
     
    Last edited:

    mawkie

    C&R Whisperer
    Sep 28, 2007
    4,357
    Catonsville
    It's a shame that it experienced such poor storage but I think you've done as much as you can without altering and removing a lot of metal and markings. Thinned BLO is my suggestion for the wood, has worked well for me. Expect that wood to drink up a LOT of it when it's this dry. Congrats on preserving a cool piece of history.
     

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