Ton of questions, and No Money. Damned Combination

[Poopy Fishwater]

Well here we go:

Over my lifetime, I have flirted with bows enough to know that there is something exciting about it for me. I think my fav is the simple recurve. But I am just looking to get out and shoot a little at this point. I'd like to get back into it, but there are a few pieces of the puzzle that I never quite cleared up.

Like riding a bike, you never forget. But also like riding a bike, there are proper fittings and protocols to be followed to get the most out of one's set-up. (cyclists will get that reference)

These are the things that I have never really taken the time to learn. Draw length? Arrow weight? Fletching config? In the past it was, "here, hold my beer while I nail this beer can with a judo-point"...and that seemed good enough. Of course, that was back in the 80's in the Frostburg days. I'd like to think that I have evolved. Perhaps not. But if you'd like to enlighten me, and NOT BOWL ME OVER WITH YOUR JARGON (unless it includes a legend) AND VAST EXPERIENCE, then I'm your beer drinker...I mean I'm your man.

OK folks. Maintain a light hearted sense of humor, and let me have it. Also feel free to make me aware of that crappy, "not goood for hunting anymore but good for Poopy to shoot at an insulting hay bale" bow that you have laying in the basement. Don't expect top dollar for it. It's probably wore out and there are reasons that you want to sell it. Start the negotiations at $4 and a six-pack.

beers,

Poopy

 

[jr88]

Here is a good website with some of the best info on "how to buy a bow".

http://www.huntersfriend.com/compound_bow_selection_guide.html

 

[Roneut]

Well, I don't consider myself an expert but I am a "traditional" shooter, which sounds more like what you're talking about. I shoot plain recurves and longbows with no sights, and arrows made of cedar.

The simple stuff is draw weight and draw length. How strong you are and how long your arms are determine this. Draw weight often just requires some experimentation, but shooting for fun at a haybale really just needs 25-35 pounds. Most adult men can pull that without trouble.

Most sporting good stores have one of these contraptions that looks like a longbow with an arrow permanently attached. You use it to measure how your draw length, and the sales rep will usually help. Draw length determines how long of an arrow you need. With compound bows, it also has an effect on the bow, since compounds have a fixed length you can pull them back. With recurves, it's not as specific but still should be considered if you are tall and/or have long arms, as you can over-draw certain bows and break them.

Arrow weight is pretty much what it sounds like. Generally things that affect it are the type of point you have on it and what the shaft is made of (wood, carbon, aluminum). The weight is in grains. If you're causally shooting a target, it's more important to just have arrows that are consistent with each other.

If you want to go really low-budget, have you every hard of the Backyward Bowyer?
http://www.youtube.com/user/BackyardBowyer
His thing is making archery affordable, so his channel is all about making perfectly functional archery bows out of PVC pipe. And it works! I have a little "turkish bow" made from recycled plumbing and two dowel rods and it shoots just fine, enough to hit a 60cm target at 40 yards.

 

[Franklin]

http://woodlandarchery.com/kits.htm

 

[jpo183]

If you are just looking for shooting for kicks, there are several DIY bows from pvc pipe. I use a traditional recurve with a 55lb draw (I'm left handed too)

If you are looking for compound bows check the pawn shops, you can get a "decent" one for $50-$75 with arrows.

The one thing that sucks with recurve is the arrows are more finicky with the feathers. Compounds use a plastic type material where recurve use feathers.