Thinking about getting a Storm Lake threaded barrel for a SW1911 government (5") pistol (8 +1 rds.). Hopefully a drop-in barrel. I'm looking for reliable shooting using a suppressor. Do I need to go with a ramped or unramped barrel?
Thanks!
A non ramped could be "drop in" ramped, not so much. Really only a benefit if you are running other calibers. Also "drop in" really isn't, at minimum you need a fitted bushing for it to shoot worth a crap. Oversized barrel properly fitted can always end up just right, a "drop-in" will be loose to some degree, or it will be tight enough you have to fit it anyway, or it can wear or damage something important.
Your reply makes sense. So, then, are there any barrel kits specifically made for the SW1911 government model?
Thanks.
Any drop in barrel will be inferior to a properly fitted barrel. That said, it depends on what you want out of your 1911. So what do you want out of your 1911?
1. A GI 1911 that will hold a 4" group at 25 yards (most reliable) $
2. A match grade 1911 that will hold a 1/2" group at 25 yards but you can feel the grit in the action after a few hundred rounds and will require tools to disassemble. $$
3. A match grade 1911 that's very reliable (think Wilson Combat, Nighthawk, Ed Brown prices and performance) $$$$$
4. An heirloom 1911 that has all the features you want, is engraved with your name and has a presentation box to hand down to your children? (I would put a $ amount but if you have to ask.........)
Not sure how this addresses his threaded barrel suppressor concern?
Depends on how much he wants to spend and what he wants out of his pistol. Is he looking for a match grade full custom suppressed gun like Nighthawk offers? Or does he just want it to be quiet and hit the target?
I would pick a good name brand, semi fitted barrel. It's a barrel that will require some fitting by a smith (or you if you're handy) before dropping in. Some good names are Storm Lake as you mentioned, Wilson Combat, Bar Sto, and I think AAC made a short run of barrels to mount suppresors (not sure if they made a 1911 barrel).
Consult the manufacturer of your supressor if there's any recommendations they have as far as barrels go. They'll have a larger sample size than most to keep an eye on trends of quality and laco thereof.
Regarding ramped vs non ramped, typically ramped barrels are only used on frames other than steel and/or sub caliber (IE non .45) variants. I would go non ramped and get an extra box of ammo.
If you do choose the do it yourself route, Evolution Gun Works offers pre fit bushings to order. You measure the ID of your slide and the OD of your barrel and send them the measurements and they make a bushing to your spec. Should be easy peasy lemon squeezy. Also, if you do need to massage the fit, file the bushing not the barrel.
Have fun.
Lots for consideration here. Good advise. I had dropped the ramped idea. Thanks mopar92.
As to these Storm Lake 1911 barrels, is one of these better to use than the other : Stainless or Black Isonite? My existing factory barrel is stainless. I thought Chad (Clandestine) said he prefers the black - I presume for operation, but it wouldn't look too good with a factory stainless SW1911.
For matching stainless. For use Isonite is better, longer lasting, easier to clean, and more resistant to wear, but its a much harder surface finish to cut through when fitting. But the only part that will be visible when the suppressor is mounted will be the portion of the barrel visible through the ejection port.
I take it. then, that if it were you, you'd go with Isonite rather than the stainless, based on your explanation. Will Isonite resting on stainless create any metal corrosion problems of any consequence?
Thanks!
You will likely have to play with springs with a suppressed 1911. There is a fine balance of lockup, bushing tolerances, and slide fit that can all play into factors of how well the gun runs with a can attached.
Most "Drop In" still require fitting. Improper fitting and a can wreck the barrel and slide with suppressed use. I would not get ANY treated barrel (Melonite and so on) because if things need to be fit/polished, or filed, it will remove the primary purpose of the finish (wear reistance). Get coating AFTER things are fit and run reliably.
Remember, not all Gunsmiths are true masters of any firearm, or the 1911. Not all Masters of the 1911 deal with or understand the effect suppressors have and how to not figure it out by using you as the guineau pig.
If you have a gun that locks up like a bank vault without a can, it does not always work out for a suppressed platform.
Trikshot and Scotts are fantasic 1911 smiths. If you need help they should be able to assist.