So, Let's Talk Home Cooking Recipes - Case Lube

[SOMDSHOOT]

I have been researching some alternatives to case lube, which is obviously alcohol and Lanolin, Now, I hear about Castor Oil, STP gas treatment, HEET, and several other recipes. I am curious to know what else is out there that will go on wet, eveporate and dry with little to no residue. I have been using CRC Silicone spray, which is a dry-lubricant and it works great, but, curiosity has struck me.

 

[Bolts Rock]

I switched to PAM or generic cooking spray. Doesn't dry and you do have to wash it off the cases and take your die apart and clean it but.....it's cheap, it works and it doesn't leave oil dents on shoulders. Keep in mind I do not bother to size cases unless I'm doing a batch of 500 or more so the extra cleaning is no big deal to me.

 

[IndispensableDestiny]

I like pure lanolin and 99 percent rubbing alcohol (Safeway has it). Mix at about 8 to 1 or 10 to 1 alcohol to lanolin. Pure lanolin is a solid. You can also dissolve Hornady Unique case lube at the same rate in the alcohol. I think it's mostly lanolin.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

I like pure lanolin and 99 percent rubbing alcohol (Safeway has it). Mix at about 8 to 1 or 10 to 1 alcohol to lanolin. Pure lanolin is a solid. You can also dissolve Hornady Unique case lube at the same rate in the alcohol. I think it's mostly lanolin.

I was reading the contents on a bottle of Dillon case lube at the local powder shop and it states Lanolin and Iso. alcohol. My post is simply asking for alternatives of this mix. 99% of case lubes with a label on them are Lanolin and Alcohol.

 

[Pinecone]

No alcohol - http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/MSDS/RCBSCaseLube2.pdf

Hexane as solvent - http://www.rcbs.com/downloads/MSDS/RCBSCaseSlickSprayLube.pdf

Petroleum based - http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/quick-spray-case-lube.php

Tallow as lube - http://www.hornady.com/assets/files/msds/Unique_Case_Lube_MSDS.pdf

From another forum -

The RCBS lube is glycerine

I used to use STP too. In fact, both RCBS and Lyman relabeled it and sold it as case lube for years.

 

[IndispensableDestiny]

I was reading the contents on a bottle of Dillon case lube at the local powder shop and it states Lanolin and Iso. alcohol. My post is simply asking for alternatives of this mix. 99% of case lubes with a label on them are Lanolin and Alcohol.

Oh. Well, it works, so I use it.

I know that some people use Sno-Seal. You can probably dissolve it in alcohol if you care to. It's inexpensive and good for your leather boots.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

Oh. Well, it works, so I use it.

I know that some people use Sno-Seal. You can probably dissolve it in alcohol if you care to. It's inexpensive and good for your leather boots.

I did some .223 brass and used my can of CRC Silicon Lubricant. It's a dry lube and appears to work good, but, I'd rather have something with a little more "lube" out of about 200 cases so far I have had about 4 that have pulled the brass off the brass holder. Pain in the backside when that happens. I like the evaporating properties of the dry lubes and alcohol based products, but, I would like to fine something that has a wax lube type design without the gunk build up. The CRC is basically the same thing as Sno-Seal. I have used similar products for boots and it's basically the same silicon / acrylic based system. I could my $32.00 can of Nu-Trol control cleaner with lubricant, but, Nu-Trol is way too good for bullet brass. I joke with some of my customers and I say, "That stuff is 50 cents a squirt. How clean do you want that volume/squelch control ?"

 

[John from MD]

I use the yellow wire lubricant that you find in Home Depot or Lowe's. Mix with 99% alcohol at 10 to 1 and it works well.

To apply, I put some in a round tupperware bowl (200?) and just roll around with my hand for a minute or two. Then I hit the brass with a heat gun and it dries the alcohol, then I resize.

This lube is not sticky and I don't clean the cases off unless I am using it in my AR 15. For AR15 brass, I just throw it in the vibrator with walnut shell for a few minutes and that cleans off the lube. Walnut shell being fine does not get stuck in the primer hole.

 

[Franklin]

i got my lanolin from cvs but found through 2 batches that denatured alchahol holds the lanolin better. I used a 2 oz tube of pure lanolin to a litre of DA and it turned out alot better than the 99% batch. the lanolin is usually close to the nipple pads in the baby section. cool thing is if you ever have sore nipples, you can just spray some on.

 

[Traveler]

i got my lanolin from cvs but found through 2 batches that denatured alchahol holds the lanolin better. I used a 2 oz tube of pure lanolin to a litre of DA and it turned out alot better than the 99% batch. the lanolin is usually close to the nipple pads in the baby section. cool thing is if you ever have sore nipples, you can just spray some on.

Just out of curiosity, where did you get the lanolin? I was looking for some a while back, but didn't see a reliable supplier.

cool thing is if you ever have sore nipples, you can just spray some on.

Thanks buddy, gotta bleach my eyes now.

 

[Pinecone]

I have found with the Dillon lube (lanolin and alcohol) you don't need to let it dry. Works fine wet.

But you really should remove the lube from the case, even if it not sticky.

When the round fires, the case expands and grips the chamber. If there is lube on the case, the case is forced back against the bolt, GREATLY increasing the bolt thrust. This can lead to stuck bolts, excessive wear, even damage to the bolt or receiver.

There are a few case lubes that say they don't need to be removed, but IMO, any lube is to be avoided.

I tumble my loaded rounds for about 15 - 20 minutes in corn cob media to remove any lube. Then only handle them with gloves on to avoid any corrosion.

 

[Traveler]

I have found with the Dillon lube (lanolin and alcohol) you don't need to let it dry. Works fine wet.

But you really should remove the lube from the case, even if it not sticky.

When the round fires, the case expands and grips the chamber. If there is lube on the case, the case is forced back against the bolt, GREATLY increasing the bolt thrust. This can lead to stuck bolts, excessive wear, even damage to the bolt or receiver.

There are a few case lubes that say they don't need to be removed, but IMO, any lube is to be avoided.

I tumble my loaded rounds for about 15 - 20 minutes in corn cob media to remove any lube. Then only handle them with gloves on to avoid any corrosion.

I have found my Dillon 550b runs smoother if I let the brass dry first. Wet seems to have more resistance. It makes sense, because any left over alcohol dissolves / cleans the lanolin away. Also, wet makes the powder cling in the neck.

I have been pondering the whole, clean the lube off or not thing. I haven't found specific direction from Dillon. I use a microfiber cloth to wipe em down. The whole live primer in a tumbler thing bugs me.

The problem with your theory about the brass clinging to your barrel is, what about the CLP you clean with? What gets rid of that lube? The chamber is already slippery unless you manage to get it bone dry, which could lead to rust. Just pondering. Links, gunsmiths?

 

[byf43]

I have found my Dillon 550b runs smoother if I let the brass dry first. Wet seems to have more resistance. It makes sense, because any left over alcohol dissolves / cleans the lanolin away. Also, wet makes the powder cling in the neck.

I have been pondering the whole, clean the lube off or not thing. I haven't found specific direction from Dillon. I use a microfiber cloth to wipe em down. The whole live primer in a tumbler thing bugs me.

The problem with your theory about the brass clinging to your barrel is, what about the CLP you clean with? What gets rid of that lube? The chamber is already slippery unless you manage to get it bone dry, which could lead to rust. Just pondering. Links, gunsmiths?

I allow the alcohol to evaporate 'some' before I start sizing.

After sizing (I size on my RCBS RockChucker), I tumble the lube off, then clean primer pockets/trim/de-burr, then over to the Dillon RL-550B to prime, charge/seat/taper crimp. (At least on rifle calibers.)

Tumbling loaded rounds....... I've never had an issue with the primers/detonation, etc., and the accuracy hasn't been influenced (at least that "I" could tell).




Locating Lanolin: A good friend of mine found it on e-Bay for a lot less than I got it, at a Whole Foods Store, in Blacksburg, VA.

The CVS stores in/around Waldorf didn't have it. One lady thought I was crazy, asking for Lanolin.

 

[Franklin]

Just out of curiosity, where did you get the lanolin? I was looking for some a while back, but didn't see a reliable supplier.



Thanks buddy, gotta bleach my eyes now.

CVS in the section where all the baby stuff is. it is in a little box and is hard to see. The nipple soothing pads are easier to see and should be next to them somewhere. the sore nipple:lanolin ratio is way off so it can be hard to find!

just order from here. you get alot more. i will even split it with you if a pound is to much.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Lanoli...main_0&var=&hash=item460dc2198e#ht_5471wt_998

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

CVS in the section where all the baby stuff is. it is in a little box and is hard to see. The nipple soothing pads are easier to see and should be next to them somewhere. the sore nipple:lanolin ratio is way off so it can be hard to find!

just order from here. you get alot more. i will even split it with you if a pound is to much.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pure-Lanoli...main_0&var=&hash=item460dc2198e#ht_5471wt_998

Besides enjoying the use of the word Nipple ( which is the main reason I own a lot of muzzleloaders ) is this question. If you use that solid Lanolin will it stay dissolved in the denatured / 99% Ackahawl ? I don't know a damned thing about Lanolin, and my wife won't help, but, I'm curious about he use of solid versus liquid Lanolin.

Side Note to: ( which is the main reason I own a lot of muzzleloaders ) - This allows me to clean my Smoke Pole and not be afraid to say I am rubbing my Nipple. Now that was just silly.

 

[Franklin]

Besides enjoying the use of the word Nipple ( which is the main reason I own a lot of muzzleloader ) is this question. If you use that solid Lanolin will it stay dissolved in the denatured / 99% Ackahawl ? I don't know a damned thing about Lanolin, and my wife won't help, but, I'm curious about he use of solid versus liquid Lanolin.

( which is the main reason I own a lot of muzzleloader ) - This allows me to clean my Smoke Pole and not be afraid to say I am rubbing my Nipple. Now that was just silly.

The more water is in the akahawl,the more the lanolin will seperate.DA is pure with puke makers in it so people dont drink it. The DA holds the lanolin better and does not seperate as much. really all this does is make it less of a pain to apply. if you dont mind heating and shaking it to utilize all the lanolin, just use the 99%. nipples nipples nipples plywood peanut butter nipples!

 

[Franklin]

I just found a recipe on castboolits thats says to use acetone 5:1 with lanolin and there is no seperation since it is a solvent. worth a try i would think especially if you are doing it and not me. nipples

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

The more water is in the akahawl,the more the lanolin will seperate.DA is pure with puke makers in it so people dont drink it. The DA holds the lanolin better and does not seperate as much. really all this does is make it less of a pain to apply. if you dont mind heating and shaking it to utilize all the lanolin, just use the 99%. nipples nipples nipples plywood peanut butter nipples!

That makes perfect sense. I fully understand the reason now of the DA. Thanks for that.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

I just found a recipe on castboolits thats says to use acetone 5:1 with lanolin and there is no seperation since it is a solvent. worth a try i would think especially if you are doing it and not me. nipples

Yeah I don't know about the Acetone. I envision that as maybe discoloring the brass.

 

[Pinecone]

I have found my Dillon 550b runs smoother if I let the brass dry first. Wet seems to have more resistance. It makes sense, because any left over alcohol dissolves / cleans the lanolin away. Also, wet makes the powder cling in the neck.

I have been pondering the whole, clean the lube off or not thing. I haven't found specific direction from Dillon. I use a microfiber cloth to wipe em down. The whole live primer in a tumbler thing bugs me.

The problem with your theory about the brass clinging to your barrel is, what about the CLP you clean with? What gets rid of that lube? The chamber is already slippery unless you manage to get it bone dry, which could lead to rust. Just pondering. Links, gunsmiths?

I was sizing some primed cases, so I sprayed some lube on a piece of plastic and used me fingers to apply. Wet sized much easier than dry. YMMV.

When I say tumble, I mean VIBRATORY tumbler. I have never heard of a round going off in one.

The lube in the chamber is gone in a couple of rounds. If all the cases have lube, EVERY shot has lube.