So I cleaned up the Buffalo .44 today...

[bkraft]

I noticed the other day that the poor thing was looking sort of neglected, so I pulled it out and polished/cleaned/oiled it today. What a joy these guns are to tear down with the simplicity of their engineering.

I'm almost afraid to admit that I had more fun servicing this thing then I did my new-to-me C&R purchase a few weeks ago. Even so, I'm debating whether to possibly sell it or not... Since it obviously won't be affected by any bans, I've been thinking of liquidating anything I'm not totally attached to in order to buy up more stuff that might be banned later. What a sad world we live in now

THis first pic was taken especially for Notagunnut

 

[novus collectus]

Wow, are those adjustable target sights?

Great looking gun.

 

[willtill]

That is a nice looking revolver. Brass frame. What did you use to polish it up with?

I have an 1847 Walker and a 1860 Old Army. Great revolvers. They have brass trigger guards; I'd like to get them shined up a bit myself.

Kindest Regards,

-Will

 

[gamer_jim]

Can you shoot antique replicas?

I have a 1853 reproduction Enfield musket I would love to shoot a bullet through. Is that safe and where do I buy bullets for it?

 

[novus collectus]

Can you shoot antique replicas?

I have a 1853 reproduction Enfield musket I would love to shoot a bullet through. Is that safe and where do I buy bullets for it?

Some reproductions can shoot, but some are just for show and are never to be fired.
However some are sold as just for show and to not have a touch hole for ignition of powder, but are made and designed to be fired, but are sold as unfireable to get around some country's laws about functioning firearms. With those you just drill a hole for the primer charge to ignite the powder and you are good to go.

If your Enfield says "Blackpowder Only" on it, then you are good to go because the replica only guns will not say that as far as I know.
As far as the bullets, that depends. If the bore size is a standard size then you can find it online in bulk usually and sometimes at Bass Pro or Bay Country arms, but if not you may have to buy a mold and make your own.
You can find the size with a little research if you know the manufacture (should be on the barrel or frame), but if not I think you have to slug the barrel to find out.

 

[alucard0822]

That is a nice looking revolver. Brass frame. What did you use to polish it up with?

I have an 1847 Walker and a 1860 Old Army. Great revolvers. They have brass trigger guards; I'd like to get them shined up a bit myself.

Kindest Regards,

-Will

I have the same pistols, and they are a lot of fun to shoot, the Walker for it's raw power, and the 1860 for it's graceful lines and relatively light easy to handle appeal. I only shoot 777 in them, and it makes cleanup very easy, the powder is just as accurate as holy black, but to clean it, all you have to do is pull the grips off, break the pistols down, flush with hot water, and lightly scrub residue with nlon brushes and q-tips. I use furniture wax on the grips, fitz metal polish on the brass , and them use a coat of car wax to keep the brass shiny, then a light coat of tetra on the metal, including the bore and cylinder with some grease on the action, and it still looks just as good as the day I bought it, then before shooting, run a dry patch down the barrel and in the cylinders, then pop 6 caps on an unloaded pistol to get any oil out of the nipples. The 777 doesn't build up that fast, and shooting with wonder wads instead of coating the front of the cylinder with grease keeps the pistol even cleaner, and functioning flawlessly for at least 100 rounds before buildup starts to affect accuracy and function.

Can you shoot antique replicas?

I have a 1853 reproduction Enfield musket I would love to shoot a bullet through. Is that safe and where do I buy bullets for it?

perfectly safe as long as it is a functional repro in good working order (not a wall hanger or blank firing re-enactment rifle).

Most 1853 repros use the standard .58 cal minnie ball, and about 60gr of FF powder with a musket cap to light it. Work up the charge carefully starting with 50gr, and max at about 70gr depending on model, it is best to ask the company that made the replica for a manual to be on the safe side and see what they reccomend, as I am sure there may be some made in the more modern 50cal, and some companies make a musket that can take a hotter charge than that used back in the 1800s, so best to make sure it uses a "standard" load or not. There are also some that are smoothbore, and while safe to fire don't really group, but pattern at any distance over 50yds, the rifled muskets can be just as accurate as a modern rifle or shotgun with a slug barrel within 200yds. To shoot minnies, basically dump the desired charge down the barrel, wipe some bore butter onto the bullet making sure to fill the grooves, place into the muzzle, and push it home with the ramrod, the bullet is seated tight enough when the ramrod bounces a little when dropped into the barrel from a couple inches, and for quick reference scribe a mark even with the muzzle, or wrap tape around it to show the depth needed to seat. Then stow the ramrod, pull the hammer to half cock, put a cap on the nipple ONLY WHEN READY TO FIRE, pull the hammer to full cock, then fire. In most cases the minnies fit loose enough in the barrel that there is not much effort required to push them home. I deally the minnie should take even light resistance as it is pushed down the bore, if it simply falls in, or requires a lot of force it is the wrong size, when fired, the hollow base expands to take the rifling, and guide the bullet out of the bore.

I normally get my BP supplies from MidwayUSA, dixie gun works, cabellas, and taylor and co. And usually just search to see who has what.

found Cain's has the 58cal minnies Cain's utdoors

 

[alucard0822]

Some reproductions can shoot, but some are just for show and are never to be fired.
However some are sold as just for show and to not have a touch hole for ignition of powder, but are made and designed to be fired, but are sold as unfireable to get around some country's laws about functioning firearms. With those you just drill a hole for the primer charge to ignite the powder and you are good to go.

If your Enfield says "Blackpowder Only" on it, then you are good to go because the replica only guns will not say that as far as I know.
As far as the bullets, that depends. If the bore size is a standard size then you can find it online in bulk usually and sometimes at Bass Pro or Bay Country arms, but if not you may have to buy a mold and make your own.
You can find the size with a little research if you know the manufacture (should be on the barrel or frame), but if not I think you have to slug the barrel to find out.

58cal minnies are a little hard to come by, and shooting modern sabots it generally not advised for most makes I am farmiliar with, but Lee amongst others makes molds, and casting your own can be a fun hobby in it's own right.


OT, but you oughta love this Mark you can own a whattzit^4 for $75 and it's got night sights


on sale from DGW Ye olde zippo

 

[novus collectus]

Alucard, you are packed full of information and you have a didactic way of explaining things (could use more paragraph breaks though). YOu should really think about writing a book.... or a few.

 

[novus collectus]

58cal minnies are a little hard to come by, and shooting modern sabots it generally not advised for most makes I am farmiliar with, but Lee amongst others makes molds, and casting your own can be a fun hobby in it's own right.


OT, but you oughta love this Mark you can own a whattzit^4 for $75 and it's got night sights

View attachment 4851
on sale from DGW Ye olde zippo

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=7654

 

[alucard0822]

Alucard, you are packed full of information and you have a didactic way of explaining things (could use more paragraph breaks though). YOu should really think about writing a book.... or a few.

I have to keep repeating "paragraphs are my friend" and hope it sticks in my melon.

I did write a book once, back in my college days as a project, but it was fiction, and after dealing with the publishing company, paying for it myself and re-writing 500 pages 5 times over 2 years it proved to not be my forte. AFAIK, "Storm in the forest" is still sitting in the UMCP library.

 

[bkraft]

Can you shoot antique replicas?

I have a 1853 reproduction Enfield musket I would love to shoot a bullet through. Is that safe and where do I buy bullets for it?

Not much I can say that hasn't been covered by Novus and Alucard But, yeah, some repros are made to shoot and some aren't. Like Novus said, generally if the barrel is marked with something in regards to the powder to use, your OK. If you have any doubt about your Enfield, I'd get it checked out by someone who would know, or not try it.

Lots of places online and even locally have black powder supplies. If you have a C&R you can get discounts from places like Midway. You can even buy molds and form your own balls if your so inclined.

Traditions make a lot of the BP revolvers I've been seeing lately, though mine is probably 15+ years old and was made in Italy. It is functional, however.

If your thinking of picking one up, I'd look for a steel frame gun as I've heard regular use of a brass frame can cause the softer metal to stretch. I know they also make conversion cylinders that change your cap and ball to cartridge, but they will tell you not t use them in brass frame guns.

Hows the new job treating you?

 

[bkraft]

That is a nice looking revolver. Brass frame. What did you use to polish it up with?

I have an 1847 Walker and a 1860 Old Army. Great revolvers. They have brass trigger guards; I'd like to get them shined up a bit myself.

Kindest Regards,

-Will

I just basically broke everything down and used Brasso to take the tarnish off the frame. There was some green brass residue around the barrel threads back by the cylinder as well that I took a nylon brush to. Once that was done, it was typical pistol maint... few patches down the barrel, oil in various places and a light coat of oil over everythign to protect it.

 

[bkraft]

OT, but you oughta love this Mark you can own a whattzit^4 for $75 and it's got night sights

View attachment 4851
on sale from DGW Ye olde zippo

That reminds me of an antique flash powder pistol I have around here somewhere (candle not included ) I'll have to dig it up and take some pics.

 

[novus collectus]

I just basically broke everything down and used Brasso to take the tarnish off the frame. There was some green brass residue around the barrel threads back by the cylinder as well that I took a nylon brush to. Once that was done, it was typical pistol maint... few patches down the barrel, oil in various places and a light coat of oil over everythign to protect it.

I am letting one of my brass frames get a nice patina to make it look older.

.....or that is the excuse I use when being lazy and not cleaning the little bugger.

 

[JSW]

visit neighbors

depending on where in carroll county you live, drive up to gettysburg and stop in regimental quartermasters they sell both rifles and pistols and have the accessories or know where to get them. If your enfield is shootable casting 58 minnies is a breeze. I use the rcbs for target style minnies ,cuts a nice clean whole.

Can you shoot antique replicas?

I have a 1853 reproduction Enfield musket I would love to shoot a bullet through. Is that safe and where do I buy bullets for it?

 

[GNLaFrance]

I have a mess of .58 caliber Minié balls, two different weights. Yell if you're interested in them.

As a general rule, almost all modern black powder firearms are "adaptations" as defined below:


Common Language, Defining Reproductions by Rob Stone

As a craftsman who reproduces historical items for sale and my own personal use, I am amazed at the variety of goods on the market that are referred to as "reproductions". To better define this term and rate specific reproductions relative to the original artifacts, I asked Saundra Altman of Past Patterns for some help. Together we came up with the following definitions and rating scales. We see this information as a way for those of us who make reproductions to broaden our communication skills through a common language.

For this article, a reproduction is defined as a physical recreation of a historic item. Reproductions will be graded into four categories: exact reproduction, copy, adaptation and imitation.

An exact reproduction is a double of an historic item, intended to serve all purposes of the original. It is the best that can be expected.

A copy is a visually recreated historic item, with limited changes in raw material, physical characteristics and function. Individuals without a good knowledge of the original item would think it an exact reproduction.

An adaptation is an approximate recreation of a historic item. The craftsman has changed the item to meet preferences in marketing and manufacturing while combining historic knowledge and self-expression. An adaptation may represent a composite of more than one original artifact and thus be a "typical" representation.

An imitation is an item with some resemblance to a historic item.

A new reproduction is created to look like an original artifact when it was new.

An aged reproduction is created to look like an original after some amount of use or time.

An original resource is an original artifact or period information that can be used to recreate a historic item.

A modern resource is any modern plan, kit, tool, instructional media, advisor, etc. that guides in recreating historic items by providing historically-based assistance.

These definitions classify reproductions in general without breaking them on a numerical scale. An exact reproduction should rate higher, overall, than an imitation. Even so, a closer examination might reveal that the same raw materials and construction techniques were used and only the physical characteristics differ greatly between them. Six ratable characteristics can be defined to better understand the differences between reproductions. These characteristics include: raw material, hardware, construction, techniques, physical characteristics, functional authenticity, embellishment and general craftsmanship. Each characteristic is defined below on a scale of 1-5:

RAW MATERIALS/HARDWARE
1. The materials used to recreate the item are not the same as an original and the difference is unmistakable.
2. The item has been recreated using raw materials and hardware loosely related to an original. An average person can spot the difference.
3. Raw materials and hardware used in the item differ from an original in many ways and can be easily spotted by a knowledgeable person.
4. Some changes in the raw materials and hardware have been made in the item relative to an original but are not easily noticed
5. The materials and hardware used to make the item are as close as possible to those used in an original.

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES
1. Construction methods used to create the item do not relate to the historic techniques used in an original.
2. The reproduction has been made using modern techniques that relate to historic construction methods. The use of these techniques is apparent to the average person.
3. A mixture of modern and historic tools and techniques has been used in the reproduction. Evidence of modern methods used is noticeable.
4. Some modern construction techniques have augmented the use of historic methods in recreating the item but they are not readily apparent.
5. The item has been made using only tools and techniques employed in an original artifact.

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
Physical characteristics include size, shape, color, texture, weight, number and pattern.
1. The item's physical characteristics differ completely from the original.
2. Many of an original item's physical characteristics have been changed in the reproduction. The new item does not look like an original.
3. The item has been recreated with definite changes in some of the physical characteristics of the original. They look similar to each other.
4. The reproduction shows minor changes in the physical characteristics from the original.
5. The physical characteristics of the reproduction match those of an original.

FUNCTIONAL AUTHENTICITY
1. The item functions in such a way as to compare it with an original, but does not really function as an original artifact would.
2. The item exhibits only a few of the original functional characteristics. Few people would think it authentic.
3. The reproduction exhibits many functional characteristics of an original, but still differs in as many ways. Most people would notice the difference.
4. This item functions as an original except for a few characteristics. It will pass as functionally authentic for practical purposes.
5. The reproduction functions as an original would.

EMBELLISHMENT
1. The item has been embellished in a way that it unrelated to that of an original.
2. The item’s embellishment has been inspired by an original but it is actually quite different.
3. The reproduction’s embellishment differs from an original but will not be easily noticed by an average person.
4. The item's embellishment exhibits only subtle changes from an original.
5. The embellishment used on the reproduction is correct and appropriate to an original.

GENERAL CRAFTSMANSHIP
1. The item has been made by someone with very limited training or experience and no real skill.
2. The item has been produced by a craftsman with a limited amount of training, skill and experience.
3. This reproduction has been created by a craftsman with average abilities.
4. The item indicated that the maker has attained a moderate level of skill and experience.
5. The reproduction has been made by a master craftsman whose experience and skills create a product universally recognized as well made.

By including General Craftsmanship as a characteristic it is not implied that original artifacts were all made by master craftsmen. Certain reproductions might actually be considered historically inferior if made to too high a standard in craftsmanship. Reproduction craftsmanship is important and should be compared to the originals. Can the guidelines used in this article provide a common base by which we can share our observations on reproductions?

Originally printed in The Magazine of the Midwest Open Air Museums Coordinating Council, Vol. XIV, No.2. Reprinted with permission in TinSnips November/December 1994. Editor's note: Tin Snips will be adopting these definitions.