Single Shot Double Date Luger

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

  • No ad networks!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • GodOfVice

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    OK, now that I REALLY got your attention. Unfortunately I grossly overpaid for this and didn't notice the bolt assy doesn't completely close by maybe 1/16th of an inch. Just enough that it won't extract and cycle another round and it puts a fresh round up against the fired casing.

    It shoots the chambered round perfectly but won't extract because of the gap, the extractor can't reach the rim. I took the bolt assy apart and reassembled and it looks OK to me. I'm afraid to tear apart the bottom end, Luger is a complex pistol you know.

    Any suggestions????
     

    Attachments

    • IMG_5786.JPG
      IMG_5786.JPG
      45.5 KB · Views: 424
    • IMG_5787.JPG
      IMG_5787.JPG
      45.9 KB · Views: 412
    • IMG_5788.JPG
      IMG_5788.JPG
      34.6 KB · Views: 415
    • IMG_5789.JPG
      IMG_5789.JPG
      35.9 KB · Views: 416
    • IMG_5792.JPG
      IMG_5792.JPG
      40.6 KB · Views: 415
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,742
    Not much of a Luger guy but with that much headspace, that isn't a good thing even in single-shot.
    The bolt/toggle may be from another pistol. Not sure if you can fix that, taking the bottom end down won't help I don't think.
    Try contacting:

    Tom Heller (Luger Doc)
    Tel 636-447-3006
    Email- lugerdoc@charter.net
     

    Bolts Rock

    Living in Free America!
    Apr 8, 2012
    6,123
    Northern Alabama
    As long as you leave the mainspring ( inside the grip) and central toggle pin alone Lugers are as easy as 1911s to detail strip. Every part except tiny pins and the grip screws has at leat the last two digits of the serial number. If all parts match detail strip, clean and inspect.
     

    GodOfVice

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    As long as you leave the mainspring ( inside the grip) and central toggle pin alone Lugers are as easy as 1911s to detail strip. Every part except tiny pins and the grip screws has at leat the last two digits of the serial number. If all parts match detail strip, clean and inspect.

    Old shaky hands aren't the best for that BUT I kinda suspect a lower rod or link is backwards or upside down??? I'm in process of emailing the Luger Doc guy.
     

    GodOfVice

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Nice reply from Luger Doc today which reads....

    Jackson, THere are several possibilities for the problems that you described. It's possible that your barrel chamber was reamed too deep (new barrel required) or the breech block is undersized or your recoil spring is too weak to completely close the toggle. Finally, it could be an extractor problem. There sould be a small gap between the face of the breech block and the chamber, but can't diagnose the exact problem from you photos. If you care to send me your pistol, I can inspect and diagnose problem @$50, test fire @$25 and return S&H @$25. Then I can give you a firm quote for parts & labor to repair.

    I asked him what the clearance should be in 1,000th and does he have a breech block and extractor for sale. I thought his reply was both professional and nice.
     

    lee2

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Oct 8, 2007
    19,012
    good deal it really depends on what you're willing to spend on repairs.
    if it were mine, i prefer a shooting firearm to a wall hanger.:thumbsup:
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,742
    ..... I thought his reply was both professional and nice....

    Tom is a good guy.
    A little expensive but you get what you pay for :)
    Considering a working Luger is worth a lot more than one that's boogered, it may be worth it to have a professional look it over and fix whatever ails it.

    I traded my one and only Luger so can't help with measurements.

    BTW: He has a lot of genuine WW2 P.38, PP, PPK etc. parts as well as the P.08
     

    GodOfVice

    Banned
    BANNED!!!
    Tom is a good guy.
    A little expensive but you get what you pay for :)
    Considering a working Luger is worth a lot more than one that's boogered, it may be worth it to have a professional look it over and fix whatever ails it.

    I traded my one and only Luger so can't help with measurements.

    BTW: He has a lot of genuine WW2 P.38, PP, PPK etc. parts as well as the P.08

    Well I didn't call Sarco because I thought they closed down. I want to order new repo extractor and spring. It looks like they're alive and well..... true or false? Playing with it tonight it does in fact grab the rim, maybe it is only the spring? When I tore it down I stretched it a tad hoping that would cure it, nope didn't happen.
     
    Jul 1, 2012
    5,742
    Sarco is still up and running, ordered some parts from them not too long ago...
    hopefully that's all it is !
     

    Users who are viewing this thread

    Forum statistics

    Threads
    275,716
    Messages
    7,292,607
    Members
    33,503
    Latest member
    ObsidianCC

    Latest threads

    Top Bottom