Sharpening Your Knives

[Mr H]

Alright. I have some cheapo folding knives and I have some very nice knives. Lately, my Buck 110 has been losing its edge, my Gerber pocketknife has no edge at all, and I've got a 70-75 year old PAL RH 50 coming in that I plan on using as my camp knife at reenactments and it's probably going to be as sharp as a plastic spoon.

How do you guys get your edge back? Somehow, I learned how to sharpen ice skates, but not knives.

I'm oldschool, and swear by good stones. Occasionally I'll grab a diamond slab.

My son is a wizard with a Lansky kit. Absolutely swears by it, and I have seen the results.

I recommend it highly.

 

[matt_b89]

+1 for lansky. I'm knife sharpening impaired and it really does the trick

 

[adjusterr]

Sharpening

I had a friend who could sharpen a 2x4 and he worked with me constantly until it became obvious I was "Sharpening Challenged" I tried several tools but got the best results with a small yellow sharpener from Smith's Abrasives Inc.,Hot Springs, AR., they are cheap so I have them scattered around the house and in all my hunting backpacks. Coarse sharpening is done with a carbide V and fine with ceramic sticks. check out www.smithsedge.com and click on find your sharpener, page 3, model CCKS, less than $6. and works like a charm.

 

[Captnstabn]

Another for the sharpmaker. If you can hold a knife, you can sharpen it with the sharpmaker. It's really that easy.

 

[smokey]

Work Sharp Knife and Tool sharpener. Easy to use and fast. Also micromesh makes dozens of different belts for it. I sharpened everything in the house when I first got it. Best 70 bucks I spent in the last 30 days. I got mine at bass pro but they can be had online for a little less.

http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=90

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B003IT5F14

It's nice, just be careful on heating the edge and take your time.

 

[a216vcti]

What do you guys think of this kit? I wanted to do an oil stone. These are going to be used on Shun Elite kitchen knives and my leatherman.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Ultimate-Oil-Stone-Kit-P320C100.aspx

 

[booker]

Edgepro, sharpmaker, Lansky, Wicked Edge.. there are a number of high-quality rigs to get it done. The Smith's Abrasives V-notch sharpeners are cheap and do a pretty good job if that's all you need.

I put my toe into the Japanese water stone world and had some success, but it is expensive and takes a fair amount of practice and time. Check out Chefsknivestogo for some good video tutorials.

 

[a216vcti]

Edgepro, sharpmaker, Lansky, Wicked Edge.. there are a number of high-quality rigs to get it done. The Smith's Abrasives V-notch sharpeners are cheap and do a pretty good job if that's all you need.

I put my toe into the Japanese water stone world and had some success, but it is expensive and takes a fair amount of practice and time. Check out Chefsknivestogo for some good video tutorials.

Actually the oil stones are cheaper than the waterstones. From the videos I've seen of people using the oil stones, it looks fairly simple to sharpen the knives. I think what makes a big difference is the strop.

Has anyone used the oil stones?

 

[booker]

Actually the oil stones are cheaper than the waterstones. From the videos I've seen of people using the oil stones, it looks fairly simple to sharpen the knives. I think what makes a big difference is the strop.

You get what you pay for. Indeed, oil stones are "cheaper." Yes they'll sharpen, but they won't really sharpen, and definitely won't sharpen a harder steel (60+ Rockwell). If all you need is a working edge for a medium-hardness blade, oil stones are fine.

Stropping won't do much if you haven't created the pitch. Stropping (be it with leather, felt, horse hide, and any number of stropping compounds of various grits, or none at all) merely smooths the fine imperfections, which, for some applications, are actually desired because it adds some "bite" to the edge.

 

[wreckdiver]

Another for the sharpmaker. If you can hold a knife, you can sharpen it with the sharpmaker. It's really that easy.

The only downside to the sharpmaker is it can be difficult to get the tip sharp on a good knife. Also can be a little tricky on a chisel grind blade the the Benchmade CQC 7.

 

[rj1974]

Smith's Arkansas stones . These were my grandfathers Ive been using them since I was about 14 , other then these I just use a butchers steel .

 

[BlindViper]

I personally use the gatco diamond setup up. I have used the lansky stone and diamond setups. The gatco guide rods are 200% better the the lansky. Other then that they perform the same task.

 

[Dead Eye]

I have an old stone. I don't know who makes it, and it doesn't matter (so long as it isn't a rock, and I'm sure I'll hear the backlash, but read on before you start barking). The real trick is in the technique. A thirty degree included angle, that's fifteen degrees a side, is what you want to shoot for. Anything larger and you don't get enough cutting angle to make it sharp, and anything smaller and you compromise the strength of the edge. Some move the blade to the stone in a "figure eight". I use circles, just because it is easier. Discipline yourself to know and keep the correct angle. Some factory edges are "fat", so it will take some time to work down the angle. How do you know you are done sharpening? First, you want both sides to look even. Secondly, turn the sharpened edge up to the light. Any knick or edge that isn't sharp will "trick" or reflect the light. A sharp edge cannot reflect light, therefore, if you see a bright spot, keep sharpening. Now comes the part that NO stone will cover for you, no matter how fine it is. Just like the barbers of old, "strapped" their razors, you too need to strap your knife. I use an old leather belt I save every time I buy a new one. Trap one end of the belt against the floor, with your foot, and hold the other end verticle with your free hand. Orient the belt so the rough, or un-colored, or natural side faces out. In a sweeping downward motion, stroke the blade down the belt with the back edge leading, so you don't cut the belt in half. You sweep it so that by the time you finish the stroke, you have moved across the entire length of the blade, from the hilt, or handle, to the tip. Turn the blade over, and pull the knife back up the strap. Repeat. What you are doing is two things. First you are micro polishing the blade, and secondly you taking the ground "feathered" edge, from grinding (if you looked at it under a microscope), and bending that edge back and forth, work hardenening it, like bending a coat hanger back and forth until it breaks. Right before the coat hanger breaks, you notice it gets harder because you are changing the molecular structure of the steel. The same happens to your knife blade, leaving it with a harder edge, that will be sharper, and stay sharper longer, than a blade that is only ground. Not only will you be able to shave with it, but it will stay sharper, longer.

 

[rj1974]

I have an old stone. I don't know who makes it, and it doesn't matter (so long as it isn't a rock, and I'm sure I'll hear the backlash, but read on before you start barking). The real trick is in the technique. A thirty degree included angle, that's fifteen degrees a side, is what you want to shoot for. Anything larger and you don't get enough cutting angle to make it sharp, and anything smaller and you compromise the strength of the edge. Some move the blade to the stone in a "figure eight". I use circles, just because it is easier. Discipline yourself to know and keep the correct angle. Some factory edges are "fat", so it will take some time to work down the angle. How do you know you are done sharpening? First, you want both sides to look even. Secondly, turn the sharpened edge up to the light. Any knick or edge that isn't sharp will "trick" or reflect the light. A sharp edge cannot reflect light, therefore, if you see a bright spot, keep sharpening. Now comes the part that NO stone will cover for you, no matter how fine it is. Just like the barbers of old, "strapped" their razors, you too need to strap your knife. I use an old leather belt I save every time I buy a new one. Trap one end of the belt against the floor, with your foot, and hold the other end verticle with your free hand. Orient the belt so the rough, or un-colored, or natural side faces out. In a sweeping downward motion, stroke the blade down the belt with the back edge leading, so you don't cut the belt in half. You sweep it so that by the time you finish the stroke, you have moved across the entire length of the blade, from the hilt, or handle, to the tip. Turn the blade over, and pull the knife back up the strap. Repeat. What you are doing is two things. First you are micro polishing the blade, and secondly you taking the ground "feathered" edge, from grinding (if you looked at it under a microscope), and bending that edge back and forth, work hardenening it, like bending a coat hanger back and forth until it breaks. Right before the coat hanger breaks, you notice it gets harder because you are changing the molecular structure of the steel. The same happens to your knife blade, leaving it with a harder edge, that will be sharper, and stay sharper longer, than a blade that is only ground. Not only will you be able to shave with it, but it will stay sharper, longer.

the only thing I do different is instead of the figure 8 or circles. I sharpen mine like Im trying to shave the stone one sweep from ricasso to tip alternating sides with each stroke.And depending on what im using the knife for I will also use a 20degree angle instead of 30.

I have found I like a GOOD butchers steel though for quick touch ups.

 

[booker]

For those who want to get into water stones and Japanese-style sharpening.. 9-part video series from Mark Richmond.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz_oyuYSAEk&feature=related

 

[gunrunner]

Wow, I haven't seen anyone mention the chefsmate electric sharpeners. They are amazing. After seeing mine 3 of my buddies have run out and bought them. They must have gotten tired of asking me to do it for them. Only thing with the chefsmate is that your limited on blade width. About 1/4" is max. But I have sharpened everything from my kitchen knives to my camp axe. With better than factory blade sharpness.

 

[alucard0822]

Long ago I started out with arkansas stones put a decent edge on a knife, but took a long time, and a lot of skill. I went to Lanky sharpeners, They are easier to use, produce a consistent angle, and also give a decent edge. I now use a harbour freight 1X30 belt sander with grinding belts from Lee Valley tool, it is probably the cheapest, definitely the fastest, and perhaps the best way to sharpen I have used. I can reshape an edge with 80-220 grit belts, sharpen with 600-1000 grit, and polish with 1200+ belts, or a leather belt and polishing compound. It will sharpen any non-serrated edge within about 5 minutes, and leaves a polished convex edge sharper than can be done by hand. Once that sharp knife starts to dull, it can be touched up with just the leather belt and compound on the belt sander, in about a minute, it is back to a polished razor sharp edge.

 

[Bob A]

I think Benchmade states that using a belt sander voids their warranty. Probably has to do with heat, drawing the temper of the steel.

 

[Boom Boom]

Sharpmaker kit, ultra-fine Sharpmaker triangles, Arkansas stones

 

[alucard0822]

I think Benchmade states that using a belt sander voids their warranty. Probably has to do with heat, drawing the temper of the steel.

just about all factory sharening is done with belt sanders, it's fast and good. It does take skill to do properly, especially in controlling heat buildup. They may say sharpening with a belt will void a warranty, but they wouldn't know if it is done correctly. Kinda in the same category as reloads voiding the warranty on firearms, or their manual stating to never carry a loaded firearm.