Scope Suggestions

[Winebike]

At 200 yards, a 3-9x40 with an adjustable objective is plenty good enough for shooting sub two-inch groups. A well-regarded, precision rifle instructor told me that a 4.5-14x40 scope is fine up to at least 700 - 800 yards. A Leupold VXIII scope is what he likes for a good, all purpose scope that weighs less and is smaller than most of its competitors.

Only if shooting at really small targets at great distances does he suggest that side focus is worth the extra money.

If you have old eyes or will be shooting in lower light conditions, then a 50mm objective lens might be worth the extra weight and greater cost.

Hopefully, you can find guys at the range who have the scopes you are interested in so you can try them out and get their opinions. Good luck with your search.

 

[iH8DemLibz]

OP,

Get yourself a Nikon Pro-Staff in 3x9x40. It, along with a standard duplex reticle, will do everything you need it to do.

And you can pocket the other 3/4ths of that $1,000.00

Enjoy your shooting and don't buy into the hype.

 

[Speed3]

I would put a vortex 6-24 on it..its under your price range and worth the money. Illuminated reticle...when I hunt, I'm rarely below 6 power anyway and I've shoot mid-range fclass with it (600 yards) no problem.

 

[montoya32]

My ignorance aside.

If the BDC marks within the scope are fixed points, how are different cartridges going to work?

Within the scope, the drop from 100 yards to 200 is a fixed amount. So you're saying the same scope will produce the same drop in inches regardless of cartridge used?

To use an extreme comparison, is a 405 grain 45-70 going 1,300 fps the same as a 60 grain 243 going 3,800 fps? Of course it's not. And that's the point I'm trying to make. Guys are buying these things and sticking them on all caliber of firearms.

And when you say: Dope card for "Your" load, you're making my point. A scope can only be set-up for "Your" load. A load. One load. Change the load and the dope card goes out the window.


If a BDC scope is set-up for 7.62 NATO or 5.56 NATO, I can see the BDC working. But most guys are going to try and find the best cartridge for their particular rifle. At which point it's set it and forget it. And the BDC will never get used.

As for your computer programs, I'm sure that can work too. But only one guy in 5,000 is going to be using that kind of equipment. And they won't be carrying dope cards.

All I'm saying is BDC is being sold by every scope maker now. Because it sounds cool. Another catchy trio of alphabets. But 97.3% of shooters will never utilize the technology.

The marks in the scope are measurements, not necessarily bullet drop. You have to know what your bullet drop will me for the measurement the scope offers.

 

[montoya32]

BTW, Sako Ballistics has an awesome app for you phone to calculate bullet drop with wind and temperature. Very easy to use.

 

[tomandjerry00]

Vortex viper at least 12x magnification (20x+ is nice). At least 44mm objective (50x is better) and a mil-dot reticle.


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[Pinecone]

What is your budget?

$200? $1000? $3000? More?

I have a Vortex Viper PST Front Focal Plane, 6-24x50 scope on my Rem 700 based rifle. It has exposed easy to use target turrets, with a zero stop, so you can always easily return to your 100 yard zero setting. I have used it to make hits out to 1200 yards.

About $900, if you buy it the right way. Plus mount and rings.

I am of the anti BDC side. You still need dope, and then you run into, with this load in these conditions, the 300 yard mark is actually 273 yards, but later it is 315 yards. Easier to just dial on the proper come up for the actual range. Remember, it is not just the load that will change the ballistics, but the altitude and the temperature. So a summer day in Denver and a winter day in MD, with the same load is VASTLY different ballistics.

I used Ballistic AE on my iPhone and iPad. $20 app, but uses the same engine as JBM Ballistics online. Put in the weather conditions and altitude, your load, and it tells you the number of mils or MOA to dial in to make hits at the range the target is at. You can change the interval, to get down single yards (not needed).

But you can do the same thing with a Field Density Altitude Compensator ( http://www.impactdatabooks.com/Field_Density_Altitude_Compensator_Yards_p/t-fdac.htm )

Or by running JBM for your load at various conditions and make dope cards.

 

[ar15dave]

Thanks for the information folks. Will take a look around at prices and availability and let you know what I choose. Liking the Nikon Series 5. I prefer the open turrets for adjusting Windage and Elevation as oppose to the caps you unscrew and then use a screwdriver to make adjustments. Not sure any one is better than the other, just my preference. Looking at a 6-24x, 3-9x or 4.5-14x I guess based on input.

Good idea to go to the range and see if I can look through someone elses scope. Will give that a try. Not in a hurry to buy. Rather do research first. Buy once and be happy.

Thanks again,

Dave

 

[MDshooters]

BDC is a gimmick.

The parameters built into a BDC scope can only be used with one set of ballistics based one particular cartridge.

Change anything about the cartridge and the BDC is worthless. Powder charge, bullet weight, bullet shape, velocity, etc.

Without knowing what exact cartridge the scope was designed around, best to avoid BDC.

Amen! Be kind to yourself and just learn to use MIL dots.

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[Indiana Jones]

How far out are you trying to reach? Vortex has some good mid level scopes with FFP for under $1000.

http://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Viper-6-24x50-FFP-Riflescope/dp/B00PSKZ7WI

I have a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 Mil/Mil and I LOVE it. It currently sits on my Mk12Mod1 until it goes on my M1A eventually. Got it at Cabela's for around $700 on a friends and family weekend with an additional coupon. A steal!


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[BradMacc82]

Vortex Viper. Either HS-T or PST, can't go wrong with either one IMO.

I have the 6-24x50 HS-T in MRAD, and for the cost I have zero complaints. The HS-T is a few hundred less than the PST, and is second focal plane - so your adjustments are only accurate at one power setting. Not a big issue for me since I rarely exceed 18x, which is the power the subtensions are calibrated for.