School me right quick

[Mason-Dixon Baseball]

...as a heart attack

I violated my own rule for the sarcasm impaired of always using the "" sarcastic emoticon......

My bad......

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

It depends on what you want to reload. I would suggest you get a kit, but you will still need a few extras - not usally found in kits, such as calipers (this is an absolute essential!) die sets for whatever caliber your looking to reload for. Case tumblers, are great to clean your brass.

Some kits have case trimmers, alot of them dont. I would suggest getting one right off the bat - particularly for rifle rounds - but pistol cases benefit from trimming as well.

As far as brands - you dont need to buy a Dillion progressive to turn out quality ammo. I would not suggest getting a progressive loader if this is your first reloading set up. Start off with a single stage, until your are fully competent. Lee makes inexpensive starter kits. I highly recommend the RCBS Rock Chucker master loading kit. The Rockchucker is a single stage press. The beauty of the Rockchucker, is that it can be upgraded into either a turret style press - with the Piggyback III set. If you want to convert it into a full bore progressive loader - the Piggyback 4 kit, will turn it into a full progressive loader. You wont have to buy a whole new press set up in the case you want change your set up. RCBS has a lifetime warranty as well- there stuff is well made. You buy it once (including there dies) -you have it for life. Lee only warranties there gear for 2 years. But Lee is great to start off with as well.

 

[teratos]

Hmmm-- trapshooting?????

Could happen.

 

[teratos]

It depends on what you want to reload. I would suggest you get a kit, but you will still need a few extras - not usally found in kits, such as calipers (this is an absolute essential!) die sets for whatever caliber your looking to reload for. Case tumblers, are great to clean your brass.

Some kits have case trimmers, alot of them dont. I would suggest getting one right off the bat - particularly for rifle rounds - but pistol cases benefit from trimming as well.

As far as brands - you dont need to buy a Dillion progressive to turn out quality ammo. I would not suggest getting a progressive loader if this is your first reloading set up. Start off with a single stage, until your are fully competent. Lee makes inexpensive starter kits. I highly recommend the RCBS Rock Chucker master loading kit. The Rockchucker is a single stage press. The beauty of the Rockchucker, is that it can be upgraded into either a turret style press - with the Piggyback III set. If you want to convert it into a full bore progressive loader - the Piggyback 4 kit, will turn it into a full progressive loader. You wont have to buy a whole new press set up in the case you want change your set up. RCBS has a lifetime warranty as well- there stuff is well made. You buy it once (including there dies) -you have it for life. Lee only warranties there gear for 2 years. But Lee is great to start off with as well.

I'll take a look at that. Thanks for the suggestion

 

[Kimerazor]

@teratos ... I've reloaded 3000+ .40S&W & .45 ACP for a savings of 40-60% v. Walmart bought cartridges.

 

[Kimerazor]

I respectfully disagree with Deep Rock Creek re: Dillon Progressive press v. a Single Stage press for a beginner. If you study reloading and know the process you will have no trouble. The biggest reason is that there is no way to mix up or forget a stage in the loading process. I'm speaking from experience as a new reloader. With my 550B, there are 4 stages & each one is done in order without having to remove and switch out dies. Therefore you can't screw it up by forgetting which case has powder & which doesn't, etc.

 

[Kinbote]

I find shotgun loading to be a little more difficult than metallic, mostly because there are more components (wads, sometimes buffer material or cardboard spacers) and the shells, wads and primers are not interchangeable the way primers and brass are interchangeable (for the most part, assuming you aren't doing max loads) in metallic. I don't shoot enough birdshot to make reloading that worth it for me, since factory birdshot is so cheap in 12 gauge.

You can save a ton of money loading slugs if you can get lead fairly cheaply. That's what most of my shotgun loading is. You have to buy the molds and a melter, but once you have that you can load slugs for around 20-30 cents each, compared to a buck apiece for factory rounds. It's easy to load buckshot as well, just more tedious than slugs since you have to count out 9 pellets or whatever you are loading for each round.

I started with a single-stage but if you plan to load a fair amount of ammo you would be ahead to start with a good progressive like the Dillon. Make sure you have enough room to set it up before you buy it. You can load a box of .45's for 5-6 dollars a box of 50 if you buy commercial lead bullets, and if you cast your own you can do it for 1-2 dollars, assuming in both cases you have your brass already. With my single stage, using Lee powder scoopers, I can load around 50 rounds an hour. With the Dillon 550 I can load around 500 rounds an hour, maybe a little less considering the time it takes to fill the primer feeds. With bullet and brass feeders or a Dillon 650 you can increase that even more.

There's nothing very complicated about reloading and it is usually pretty easy if you take your time and follow directions. Never reload while watching TV or while the woman is yammering in your ear about something and expecting a response. Sometimes you might have a problem with a round not chambering or your primer feed jamming or whatever, but it shouldn't be anything a quick post on a reloading forum can't fix, or a quick call to Dillon or RCBS can't resolve.

 

[Bikebreath]

Thanks. What is a good manual for someone like me who knows squat about reloading? I do shoot mostly auto loaders, so would probably go with a progressive press.

Single stage is generally thought of for beginners...learn to walk before you run.

Some manuals stress different aspects of reloading, so it's nice to have several. The ABC's Of Reloading gives a good overall on reloading.

I got my Speer manual with the Rockchucker kit and I also have the Modern Reloading Second Edition. It's nice to cross reference each to better see how the whole thing works.

To point out the different aspects, Modern Reloading has entire chapter on pressure and it's effect on bullet metals and that is not talked about in Speer, where there information is based around their bullets, (but I'm used other bullets with success). Contrast that with Speer stating the length of barrel with each load tested, to my recent amazement to learn that Modern Reloading NEVER mentions any barrel length...a very vital bit of info and it's just not there.

 

[rico903]

To the OP. I'm also considering starting to reload and have asked around on a few sites. The majority of responders suggest a single stage press and almost all of them recommend reading the book "The ABCs of Reloading" and a couple of other manuals before you start.

 

[Bikebreath]

The most recent American Rifleman has announced the 9th edition of The ABC's Of Reloading.

 

[A. Wayne]

Thanks. What is a good manual for someone like me who knows squat about reloading? I do shoot mostly auto loaders, so would probably go with a progressive press.

I started out knowing nothing. I used a Speer reloading manual and a single stage, and taught myself with that info only. I would not start out with a progressive, and personally probably never will own one. I'd suggest starting with a Lee Turrett, and see if that is fast enough. Not really about speed or production numbers anyway. I can load at least 150 prepped cases in an hour.

 

[Bikebreath]

I started out knowing nothing. I used a Speer reloading manual and a single stage, and taught myself with that info only. I would not start out with a progressive, and personally probably never will own one. I'd suggest starting with a Lee Turrett, and see if that is fast enough. Not really about speed or production numbers anyway. I can load at least 150 prepped cases in an hour.

I must have OCD...it takes me twice as long. I - must - measure - out - each - load - to - the - exact - amount.

 

[Bikebreath]

Oh yea- I got it that it's best to be sure about what you are putting together. I used to weigh each charge twice! Now I just use my Auto Disk, check when I remember, and am only ever off by 1/10th grain of Bullseye. I am totally anal about other stuff!!

I weighed some twice

I have the 5-0-5 RCBS, so I could be off .05 and not know it. I'd like to git me one of those fancy weighing machines.

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

The 5 0 5 is an excellent scale. It is made by Ohaus -who makes scales for alot of reloading companies.

Ive used digital scales, and to be honest, I dont trust them fully. Ive noticed on my RCBS Partner Digital Scale (Made by PACT!) that if you pull the charge pan off the scale, and put it back on, you get occasionally get different readings.

A balance beam scale is just as fast for powder weighing as a digital once you set it up. Just make sure you look at the pointer at eye level when its reading in the center level line. Ive also noticed that my groups seem to be more consistent, and smaller, when I quit using my digital, and went back to a balance beam.

A powder dispenser, and scale combo is the way to go if you want speed. But I dont load for volume, but for quality. Which is why Id never own a progressive either.

 

[Bikebreath]

The 5 0 5 is an excellent scale. It is made by Ohaus -who makes scales for alot of reloading companies.

Ive used digital scales, and to be honest, I dont trust them fully. Ive noticed on my RCBS Partner Digital Scale (Made by PACT!) that if you pull the charge pan off the scale, and put it back on, you get occasionally get different readings.

A balance beam scale is just as fast for powder weighing as a digital once you set it up. Just make sure you look at the pointer at eye level when its reading in the center level line. Ive also noticed that my groups seem to be more consistent, and smaller, when I quit using my digital, and went back to a balance beam.

A powder dispenser, and scale combo is the way to go if you want speed. But I dont load for volume, but for quality. Which is why Id never own a progressive either.

Great information. Stuff like this doesn't show up in every post that asks about getting into reloading. Something I never knew and is why I suggested going back to post #1 in this section and reading as many as you can.

Thanks!

 

[jimbobborg]

Great information. Stuff like this doesn't show up in every post that asks about getting into reloading. Something I never knew and is why I suggested going back to post #1 in this section and reading as many as you can.

Thanks!

Part of the problem with most electronic scales is they use batteries, and get wonky when the battery is dying. I have the RCBS Rangemaster 1500 and don't have this problem since I plug it into a wall socket. If you're truly OCD, get the Rangemaster 1500 with Powder Dispenser and have accurately weighed charges pretty quickly. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=772151 On sale, and RCBS is doing a rebate, too!

Jim

 

[Bikebreath]

Part of the problem with most electronic scales is they use batteries, and get wonky when the battery is dying. I have the RCBS Rangemaster 1500 and don't have this problem since I plug it into a wall socket. If you're truly OCD, get the Rangemaster 1500 with Powder Dispenser and have accurately weighed charges pretty quickly. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=772151 On sale, and RCBS is doing a rebate, too!

Jim

Thanks. If I get a windfall that's coming home with me.

 

[jhalcott]

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/reloadbasics/gasgunreload.cfm Any one deciding to reload for an AR or ANY semi auto should under stand the differences in resizing and powder choices. The wrong powder can cause many problems. Bad sizing can cause bad feeding and other related bad things. It isn't hard to reload for them, just slightly different! The use of SMALL BASE dies will get rid of MANY problems before they start. Medium speed powders are also a boon to AR reloaders. Primers MUST remain below flush through out the feedind cycle!

 

[pcfixer]

So about 25% or so less than retail. Does the same go for pistol ammo?

Save your brass and pickup brass at ranges.
power, primer and bullets for most handguns is about .15 cents a round
when reloading your own brass. Most brass can be reloaded 10 times or more.

 

[Streetgang]

I see alot of back and forth about single stage vs progressive. I'll throw in my .02 and recommend a turret press. I bought the Lee kit at Bass Pro recently and it was 130.00 which is not much more than the Lee single stage kit and has the same things in the kit as the basic single stage kit. With a set of dies you're out the door, loading pistol ammo, for well under $200. The nice thing about the turret press is you can use it as a single stage while you are getting the hang of it then switch over to using the turret when you are ready. You also can set up the turret for every die in your caliber and never have to reset any of them again. I went whole hog and bought extra turrets for each caliber, set each one up so changing calibers is about a minutes worth of work.
Just an alternative to progressive or single stage for waht its worth. One day, I may go with a progressive set up (Dillon if I do) but for now a turret is fine for me.