S&W 357 Mag Sticking

[Dippah]

Just Celebrated my Dads 70th Birthday and he asked me to help him figure out his stuck cylinder; Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum, Model 65-2. I believe it’s the K frame.
It’s cleared but we continue to have stoppage issues with 1980’s Remington .357, Modern Hornady Defense .357 and/or .38

 

[Dippah]

Just Celebrated my Dads 70th Birthday and he asked me to help him figure out his stuck cylinder; Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum, Model 65-2. I believe it’s the K frame.
It’s cleared but we continue to have stoppage issues with 1980’s Remington .357, Modern Hornady Defense .357 and/or .38

It’s old and super clean (basically new) but it won’t cycle for more than 50rds .357 and .38. Is it timing? How can we make my Moms gift to My Dad the way he enjoys shooting?

 

[John from MD]

What do you mean by won't cycle? Do you mean the cylinder won't turn? Do you mean that you can't operated the revolver in double action mode? Not cycling is a term better associated with semi automatic pistols.

 

[E.Shell]

Wonder if there is unnoticed fouling build-up at the end of the cylinder.

 

[John from MD]

Wonder if there is unnoticed fouling build-up at the end of the cylinder.

His description is clean, basically new so I would think it wasn't shot much. It could be it is jumping time, I have seen that in the past but only on much used guns.

 

[Park ranger]

Does the extractor rod walk out?

 

[John from MD]

Does the extractor rod walk out?

That is a distinct possibility.

 

[jr88]

He states after 50rds. I have a few tight SW revolvers that after that many rounds can build up enough powder to cause the cylinder to start binding, especially if shooting dirty ammo like UMC. Just a thought

 

[pre64hunter]

I've had the ejector rod back out on my Smiths occasionally, if I recall correctly, or at least something in front of the cylinder. It has a reverse thread, turning it backwards tightens it. The rotation of the cylinder usually keeps it tight but sometimes it comes loose. You may have to remove it, clean it and put a drop of loc-tite on it.
What happens is the rod unscrews itself, the rod staying put in its keeper and the cylinder backs out. Often turning the cylinder tightens it and seems to cure itself, but it's still loose and backs out again.

 

[Uncle Duke]

Wonder if there is unnoticed fouling build-up at the end of the cylinder.

I'd wonder about this too.

Op said clean, but as E.Shell alluded to, all that is needed is a few thousandths of an inch of carbon or lead or both to cause binding problems. Op might want to check the relationship of each individual chamber face to forcing cone in a good light, paying really close attention when rotating. Might be that only one chamber in particular on cylinder is a problem, where cylinder face needs more thorough cleaning. Almost sounds like some crap gets removed in wipe down cleaning, but not enough. And some 50 rounds later, Op has same problem.

Opp might also want to check for any crud or unburned powder fleck sitting unnoticed under the extractor star, an area oftentimes neglected in cleaning. Especially so if cylinder also seems to bind a bit upon closing. As mentioned by Park Ranger, check extractor rod also for walk out. Rod is threaded, so note any looseness. Note in checking that rod will have left hand thread.

 

[Park ranger]

I've had the ejector rod back out on my Smiths occasionally, if I recall correctly, or at least something in front of the cylinder. It has a reverse thread, turning it backwards tightens it. The rotation of the cylinder usually keeps it tight but sometimes it comes loose. You may have to remove it, clean it and put a drop of loc-tite on it.
What happens is the rod unscrews itself, the rod staying put in its keeper and the cylinder backs out. Often turning the cylinder tightens it and seems to cure itself, but it's still loose and backs out again.

Yep, I have a smith that I have to give a 1/4 twist every time I open the cylinder. It will foul up everything if I let it go too long.

 

[Dippah]

What do you mean by won't cycle? Do you mean the cylinder won't turn? Do you mean that you can't operated the revolver in double action mode? Not cycling is a term better associated with semi automatic pistols.

 

[Dippah]

The firing pin sticks in the primer causing a jam

 

[Dippah]

It’s been cleaned after every range day and rarely used. It’s perfect

 

[Dippah]

What do you mean by won't cycle? Do you mean the cylinder won't turn? Do you mean that you can't operated the revolver in double action mode? Not cycling is a term better associated with semi automatic pistols.

 

[Dippah]

I've had the ejector rod back out on my Smiths occasionally, if I recall correctly, or at least something in front of the cylinder. It has a reverse thread, turning it backwards tightens it. The rotation of the cylinder usually keeps it tight but sometimes it comes loose. You may have to remove it, clean it and put a drop of loc-tite on it.
What happens is the rod unscrews itself, the rod staying put in its keeper and the cylinder backs out. Often turning the cylinder tightens it and seems to cure itself, but it's still loose and backs out again.

Thanks, this will help the decision

 

[Dippah]

Just Celebrated my Dads 70th Birthday and he asked me to help him figure out his stuck cylinder; Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum, Model 65-2. I believe it’s the K frame.
It’s cleared but we continue to have stoppage issues with 1980’s Remington .357, Modern Hornady Defense .357 and/or .38

Timing, not ammo/primer strike… is that what I’m picking up? And thanks for all the input. If this works y’all made a Happy Birthday!

 

[BFMIN]

Are they by any chance nickel cases?
I've had that problem with all nickel cases but never ever with brass.
With .38 Spl zero problems, so Its something to do with ,.357 & nickle.
The chambers of my Dan Wesson have been polished so its nothing to do with them. & its not crud build up from using .38s either.

 

[John from MD]

The firing pin sticks in the primer causing a jam

Firing pin is probably pitted from a piercing a primer or two. You can try to dress it up with a stone or have it replaced.

 

[FN509Fan]

He states after 50rds. I have a few tight SW revolvers that after that many rounds can build up enough powder to cause the cylinder to start binding, especially if shooting dirty ammo like UMC. Just a thought

I have a S&W 625 and the only time I had a similar issue turned out to be dirty powder. All my reloads were just fine, but box or two of cheaper commercial bound up the cylinder.