Ruger Mark II

[BradMacc82]

Took me 2 days, countless swear words, and a few packs of smokes - but I finally got the hang of it.

It's a PITA until you build it into memory, after that, it's not so bad.

My brother has a MK I that I had to get back together for him, almost bare frame, still had some parts in it.

 

[mr.t7024]

Agreed, but field stripping grows on ya. Cliff

 

[walstib]

after a couple of times it gets easy could be worse i have to remove optic and rail to remove bolt on my browning buckmark

 

[lkenefic]

So easy a caveman can do it.

Ugggh!

 

[SuperMag]

It's a PITA if you do it according to Ruger's instructions ("Point the muzzle up, insert a magazine, pull the trigger, point the muzzle down, remove the magazine, point the muzzle toward Mecca," etc.).

HOWEVER! If you change the procedure a bit, you can literally do it blindfolded. With the gun assembled:

1. Remove the mag.
2. Lock the bolt rearward and inspect the chamber to insure it's clear.
3. Release the bolt forward, but leave it cocked.
4. Release the hammer spring housing lever, lift it, and pull it downward and out.
5. *With the bolt in the barrel*, push the barrel forward to unlatch it and lift it off.
6. Slide the bolt out of the barrel.

It's stripped.

To reassemble:

1. Install the bolt into the rear of the barrel.
2. Holding the grip assembly horizontal, stand the hammer upright.
3. Lower the barrel/bolt over the grip assembly with the hammer in the rear of the bolt.
4. Press the barrel rearwards on the grip assembly to lock it in place.
5. Insert the lock pin on the hammer spring housing and press upward to seat it.
6. Point the muzzle upward and close the hammer spring housing into the grip. NOTE: you should feel some spring resistance during the last 1/8" of travel.
7. Flip the lock lever into the grip. Done.

ALWAYS do a function check after reassembly:

1. Rack the bolt and pull the trigger. It should click when the hammer drops. HOLD the trigger rearward.
2. While holding the trigger rearward, rack the bolt.
3. Slowly release the trigger. It should reset with a click.
4. Pull the trigger. It should click when the hammer drops.
5. Rack the bolt.
6. Click the safety to the SAFE position.
7. Pull the trigger. It should not click; it should be locked in place.
8. Click the safety to the FIRE position.
9. Pull the trigger. It should click when the hammer drops.

 

[wilcam47]

 

[Vile Shadow]

Just cleaned the wife's pistol the other night. Hammer location is the key. Has to be up, otherwise you'll find you can't pull the bolt back to cock it.

Is there any difference between the Mark II, or now the Mark III, and what Ruger calls the "Hunter" version besides the fluted barrel and the wooden grip?

 

[Hotrod Diesel]

Just cleaned the wife's pistol the other night. Hammer location is the key. Has to be up, otherwise you'll find you can't pull the bolt back to cock it.

Is there any difference between the Mark II, or now the Mark III, and what Ruger calls the "Hunter" version besides the fluted barrel and the wooden grip?

Mark 3 has magazine disconnect and loaded chamber indicator. Mag disconnect can make trigger gritty and can add some complexity to reassembly. the lci just looks bad...

I love my Mark 2, and would not hesitate to buy another in similiar condition.

In fact anyone who finds their mark 2 to be a hassle to assemble, I would gladly take it off your hands.


*** This was my 1000th post ***

 

[mcbruzdzinski]

You can also cheat a bit and install a SPEED STRIP KIT from Majestic Arms!

 

[Mooseman]

OP, I am with you

 

[BlackBart]

Mark 3 has magazine disconnect and loaded chamber indicator. Mag disconnect can make trigger gritty and can add some complexity to reassembly. the lci just looks bad...

I love my Mark 2, and would not hesitate to buy another in similiar condition.

In fact anyone who finds their mark 2 to be a hassle to assemble, I would gladly take it off your hands.


*** This was my 1000th post ***

I am programmed to remind you that you owe your annual dues payable to my email account.

 

[Hotrod Diesel]

I am programmed to remind you that you owe your annual dues payable to my email account.

That was the old rules, the FAQ says 10,000 is the new 1,000...

 

[Marylandfisherman]

To me, the hardest part of putting it back together is holding the safety in place while getting everything else in. Now I use a small binder clip, and it's easy.

When I am done restoring the one I have in a week or so, I am going to look for another cheap rusty one to do.

 

[RoadDawg]

MARK II DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY

 

[aquashooter]

I have a Mk II and a 22/45 Mk III. I so hate field stripping them, that I shoot them until the bolt gets sluggish. Someone told me there is an adapter kit so that you can pull the bolt out without dismantling the gun. Anyone have info?

 

[Nanook]

For the real timid or lazy: put on your (cheap/destroyable) safety glasses. Lay a cleaning towel down. Open a window or go do this outside. Take a can of carb or brake cleaner and very carefully hose out the innards with the stick tube. Q-tip/cotton swab the remaining gunk. Let dry. Oil up. Put it in the safe or get back to shooting.

 

[LocknLoad]

excellent shooter...difficult to reassemble.

Here's an idea....disassemble and reassemble a few times to learn how to do it. It's not that hard to do.

 

[Semper Noctem]

So, I moded my 22/45 and its like a completely different gun!

I did the slingshot mod, disabled the LCI, and disabled the magazine disconnect. I highly recommend all of those modifications...

 

[J Beard]

Been shootin my MKII BB for over 20 years, Love it. So do my kids.
Til Its time to clean.
Not that hard, but not my easiest either.

 

[pbharvey]

Been shootin my MKII BB for over 20 years, Love it. So do my kids.
Til Its time to clean.
Not that hard, but not my easiest either.

Same here but closer to 30 years.
I hardly ever clean my guns.
Yeah I know but whatever, that's just me.
Maybe its the Mark II's fault since that was my first handgun. It gave me an aversion to cleaning