Roll your own the Smoking Lamp is lighted..

[Speed3]

Hahaha my 77gr Sierra match kings for 223 cost $.25/round, lake city brass was $.17/per, powder $.09, primers $.05....grand total is roughly $.56/round. Even when I don't include the brass it's $.39/round.

Not cheap by any stretch, BUT this will shoot better than anything you can buy off the shelf. Don't forget that this doesn't include the $100 worth of dies, $250 press, $100 scale, $120 brass prepping station, $80 tumbler... You get the idea.

Worth it knowing that you can stock pile components while they are cheap and not panic when there are ammo shortages and the pride of your rounds when they touch at 100 yards.

 

[DanL]

I have been reloading for a fews years now, but you might notice this is my first post to the forum.

When I have talked to people about reloading, I always suggest the first thing they figure out is why they want to reload. And then figure out what kind of shooting you want to do.

For pistol ammo, it is my belief that unless you shoot large quantities ammo stay away from reloading. I do not consider myself a large quantity shooter and I shoot about 500 to 600 rounds of 9mm, 45acp, and 38 super each month. Thats combined, not each. I am sure I am saving money but I have no idea how much or when I broke even. I think the big problem is that once you become experienced you start to understand the deficiencies of your equipment and start buying better and also adding more and more accessories. As an example, right now I use a Lee Turret press but for speed I want to step up to a Dillon 550. So it is more money going out. It will only save me time, the ammo will not be loaded any better, just faster. By reloading I do not run out of ammo when it it scarce. I also buy supplies in large quantities.

If you are looking to reload rifle ammo and you are just starting out. I think the only reason to reload is accuracy. I don't think any factory ammo is as good as you can reload yourself. That is if you are a meticulous person. Accuracy is all about control and precision. With every variable you control your accuracy will get better. I also suggest you start with a single stage press. This will help you to slow down and pay closer attention to the details.

If you just want to punch holes in paper then stick with factory ammo. But if you want to shoot bulls-eyes then reload.

My recommendations on rifle ammo is strictly from reading and from 2 guys that I shoot with every week. I have seen one of them go from 2" groups at 100 yards with factory ammo down to 1.5" groups at 200 yards with reloads. I have not purchased my rifle reloading equipment yet. I haven't decided on which rifle I am going to get, but I am pretty sure it is going to be a .243.

For a good book I would recommend "Reloading for Handgunners" by Patrick Sweeney. And for you-tube, I have watched a lot of them; none of them stand out as being really outstanding. But they are good for getting "general" information on the process but I would not rely on them for exact procedures and definitely not for recipes.

I hope this helps. If you have any questions please ask.

 

[SOMDSHOOT]

I’m thinking about reloading and want to start with a Lee Turret press kit.
I would like to hear the cons about reloading and more importantly if I shoot once a month (non competitive) how soon will I see a monetary return on my investment

I get the up side (pros)… For argument sake lets use .40cal handgun on avg $0.40 a bullet $20 a box and I’m thinking all in for the reloading $600 that’s 1500 rounds of .40cal. I get it this makes sense if you shoot once a month. I’ll be reloading four different handgun calibers and two different rifle calibers this seems like a no brainer. So why isn’t everyone doing it?

What are the headaches with reloading is there a major concerns with availability of raw material.

What is the one book that is a must have for reloading

What concerns are there with storing powder?

What’s your favorite YouTube video for reloading

Relax stay claim and return fire
One Wire

The first question you need to ask yourself is, What am I going to reload and is the investment of reloading worth it ? I reload lots of things here, but, 12 gauge shotshell is not worth the investment for example compared to buying a box of 100 from walmart.

Reloading 300 WinMag, .223, 30-06, and .270 is worth it, but, 9mm is not. You need to decide what the reloading versus buying factory ammo ratio is first.

 

[byf43]

I first started reloading, when .357 Magnum ammo was $14.50 - $15.50 per box (50 rounds), for "the good stuff", back in the late '70s.

I was shooting 50 to 100 rounds per week...... every week.

It didn't take long to recoup my $$$, back then.

Then, I started loading for .45 acp and .30-'06.
Then, the caliber list started growing.

What started out as a money-saver, was the size of a golfball.
Today, that money-saver is about the size of a dumptruck.

The key is to look for a good deal (if there is one to be had), for your equipment.
"Buy once. Cry once." In other words, "Buy good equipment that can/will last a lifetime."

I suggest learning to reload on a single stage press. Yes, you will most likely move up to a progressive, but, that single stage press still comes in handy for loading small amounts, or when doing load development.
For example, I don't shoot a 'lot' of .45-70 rounds, but, I REALLY enjoy loading for that round on my RCBS RockChucker.
It takes me 'back to basics' and I like taking my time with these 'thumpers'.

Buy components, not in a panic, but, when you find 'stuff' when it's affordable and available.

I've bought 1,000 shotgun primers (total!) since the last 'panic' started.
(Granted, I've bought thousands of boolits since December, but, I've not needed to buy primers.)
I've ridden out several 'shortages' due to planning. I've ridden out both "Obamascares".

The only thing about this latest shortage...... IF you see components available for a 'reasonable price', be prepared to buy.
IF you don't.... someone else is going to grab the material(s).

 

[DaemonAssassin]

There is a flaw in your theory of when you will recoup the costs of the equipment. Yes you can look at it as after X number of rounds the equipment is paid off, but what you might want to do instead is defray the cost over say 10k rounds or even 20k rounds to truly see how much the equipment will cost down the line.

I got into reloading at my house (instead of at his house) to save money, just like my dad did. When I started to buy components, I realized the cost savings and when I would recoup the investment on the equipment after loading about 2k rounds of 308 hunting or 308 match rounds. Granted 2k rounds would cover the costs of a Dillon 550 and them some, but I needed a number that would make the math easy. After shooting 50 rounds of my handloads, I had an epiphany, just like my father did 30+ years ago. You may go into reloading for the cost savings, but you eventually realize that you can make ammo that is of a higher quality than what you can find in a store. Case in point, FGMM doesn't come close to my handloads for my 308. I see better groups off of my 308 loads than I ever will from FGMM or any other factory match grade ammo. My 308 hunting loads are more accurate than FGMM if you can believe that. I have multiple 308 loads, where they are each tailored to a specific rifle.

In the long run, the cost of the equipment becomes less than a fraction of a penny per round, and at that point the equipment start up cost is close to zero, considering all the money you have saved over the years.

 

[DaemonAssassin]

. As an example, right now I use a Lee Turret press but for speed I want to step up to a Dillon 550. So it is more money going out. It will only save me time, the ammo will not be loaded any better, just faster. By reloading I do not run out of ammo when it it scarce. I also buy supplies in large quantities.

I you have not tried loading on a Dillon 550, I would be willing to show you how to calibrate the dies and do dry runs with it, to get you up to speed. Let me know via PM if you would want to get some hands on time with it.

Also I did a mega post for all the stuff you could need for a 550. Check the link in my sig.

 

[Pinecone]

I can give you numbers for .45, as that is what I reload most.

Bullets (commercial cast 200 gr LSWC - 9 cents each
Primer (todays prices) - 3.5 cents each
Powder - about 2 cents

I do not consider the price of brass, as I have a bunch, and pick up more at various ranges. But if you buy them, new brass is about 30 cents, but you can get a minimum of 10 reloadings (and probably more) per case, so 3 cents if you buy.

Without buying brass, the cost per round is 14.5 cents per round. Commercial ammo is at least 40 cents per round, so your savings is 35.5 cents per round.

At 100 rounds per week ($35.50 savings), it would take about 20 weeks to recoup your equipment. At 500 rounds per week, you recoup your costs in about 5 weeks.

After that, you are saving a LOT of money per week.

Even with buying brass to get started, you are saving over $32 per 100 rounds.

 

[Bolts Rock]

Don't forget that this doesn't include the $100 worth of dies

I wish, my .223 seater cost $75 but I run compressed loads so not having the seating stem split is worth it.

 

[Bolts Rock]

I reload because I can make better ammo tuned to my rifles (.223, .308 and .30-06) for less than match grade ammo. I can also run cast boolits in .30-06 to not beat my shoulder up, not eat the rifle's throat and they're cheap practice.

For handguns it isn't worth it unless you shoot a crapton every month or are willing to do big bulk lots every couple of years.

Other than load development I only load in large batches, 500 is the minimum batch I'll run for .308 and .30-06. For .223 and handgun I won't even bother to mount a die until I have at least 1000 cases to work on.

 

[LGood48]

I can give you numbers for .45, as that is what I reload most.

Bullets (commercial cast 200 gr LSWC - 9 cents each
Primer (todays prices) - 3.5 cents each
Powder - about 2 cents

I do not consider the price of brass, as I have a bunch, and pick up more at various ranges. But if you buy them, new brass is about 30 cents, but you can get a minimum of 10 reloadings (and probably more) per case, so 3 cents if you buy.

Without buying brass, the cost per round is 14.5 cents per round. Commercial ammo is at least 40 cents per round, so your savings is 35.5 cents per round.

At 100 rounds per week ($35.50 savings), it would take about 20 weeks to recoup your equipment. At 500 rounds per week, you recoup your costs in about 5 weeks.

After that, you are saving a LOT of money per week.

Even with buying brass to get started, you are saving over $32 per 100 rounds.

Think you missed a bit. Savings is 25.5 cents per round. Still substantial.

 

[Pinecone]

Think you missed a bit. Savings is 25.5 cents per round. Still substantial.

It depends whether you are paying 40 or 50 cents per round for factory ammo.

 

[brackishfly]

IMO hand loading is part of the hobby of shooting, along with casting boolits. The turret press (Manual indexing) IMO is much preferred over a fully auto indexing press. I had a Lee auto indexing press and gave it away (could not manually index). Good Luck.

Hand load for .44, .357, .327, .308 ME, 1895 Steyr, hehe more to follow 5.56, 6.5, .45 etc. etc.

 

[britishjohnhall]

To vastly oversimplify :

But your handloads will be more accurate, and tailored to your gun.

I am also on the verge of getting into reloading. Can anyone elaborate on this quote? I've heard the same opinion several places.

How is a hand load made to be more accurate than a factory load?

 

[DaemonAssassin]

I am also on the verge of getting into reloading. Can anyone elaborate on this quote? I've heard the same opinion several places.

How is a hand load made to be more accurate than a factory load?

You can control all of the variables in the manufacturing process of the ammo. You are setting the seating depth for the primers and bullets. You are also able to precisely measure the amount of powder for each round you create. You gain consistency across multiple load sessions, which equates to better accuracy, because the load is tailored to a specific firearm. I have multiple loads for each of these my 308 rifles to be able to do hunting with one load and precision shooting with another load. Each firearm likes different loads to do the same thing. To really get the best accuracy you will find a powder charge that allows the bullet to exit the barrel when the barrel harmonic has the least influence on the bullet (essentially when the harmonic is at its lowest). That is why you do load development to find the charge that the barrel likes, then stick with that load.

 

[LGood48]

It depends whether you are paying 40 or 50 cents per round for factory ammo.

Agreed, but your post indicated the $.40 cost.

 

[camobob]

I can give you numbers for .45, as that is what I reload most.

Bullets (commercial cast 200 gr LSWC - 9 cents each
Primer (todays prices) - 3.5 cents each
Powder - about 2 cents

I do not consider the price of brass, as I have a bunch, and pick up more at various ranges. But if you buy them, new brass is about 30 cents, but you can get a minimum of 10 reloadings (and probably more) per case, so 3 cents if you buy.

Without buying brass, the cost per round is 14.5 cents per round. Commercial ammo is at least 40 cents per round, so your savings is 35.5 cents per round.

At 100 rounds per week ($35.50 savings), it would take about 20 weeks to recoup your equipment. At 500 rounds per week, you recoup your costs in about 5 weeks.

After that, you are saving a LOT of money per week.

Even with buying brass to get started, you are saving over $32 per 100 rounds.

Once fired brass is running a dime or less per shell. I get 10 reloads per shell easily so brass cost is really minimal. I also have the benefit of shooting rounds that are tuned to my preference and of having as many rounds as I want available anytime I want. My advice to the OP is reload if you enjoy the whole process from components to targets. If it aint fun it's just another chore.

 

[brackishfly]

At the indoor shooting range last month (Marine Annex, Norfolk), should have asked for the 55gal. drum full of brass (spilling over).

 

[Pinecone]

Once fired brass is running a dime or less per shell. I get 10 reloads per shell easily so brass cost is really minimal. I also have the benefit of shooting rounds that are tuned to my preference and of having as many rounds as I want available anytime I want. My advice to the OP is reload if you enjoy the whole process from components to targets. If it aint fun it's just another chore.

That is why I don't really add in case cost for MY situation.

But a chore can be good if you are saving a lot of money.

Shooting 200 rounds per week, saves $50+ . Works for me.

 

[camobob]

If it works for you that's all that matters.
I like to fiddle with stuff so I find that i end up spending he savings on more components, books, accessories and the like. I think someone aid it before, I don't save money but I shoot more and enjoy it more.