Refinishing stock
- Thread starter TonyB.
- Start date
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- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
It depends on what finish you want.
Since the Mini 14 is a military like rifle, I would use an oiled wood finish. LOTS of advice over on the CMP Forums.
But basically, get some boiled linseed oil, or pure tung oil. Apply coat of oil, wipe off excess, let dry, repeat.
Since the Mini 14 is a military like rifle, I would use an oiled wood finish. LOTS of advice over on the CMP Forums.
But basically, get some boiled linseed oil, or pure tung oil. Apply coat of oil, wipe off excess, let dry, repeat.
I've used BLO with great success.
From what I've read if you choose to use Tung Oil make sure it is really Tung oil as most isn't. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
Also if using BLO make sure you are aware that the rags used can spontaneously combust. I lay them flat and dry them in the sun, which doesn't take long in the Texas sun, then dispose of them.
If for some reason you want a glossy finish Tru Oil works great.
From what I've read if you choose to use Tung Oil make sure it is really Tung oil as most isn't. https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths
Also if using BLO make sure you are aware that the rags used can spontaneously combust. I lay them flat and dry them in the sun, which doesn't take long in the Texas sun, then dispose of them.
If for some reason you want a glossy finish Tru Oil works great.
Dieselfool
Active Member
I used Rustoleum Brand Oil Based Summer Oak Stain, and a Satin polyurethane, I redid two 870 Wingmasters that came from LOU45 I think they turned out okay.
Original
Sanded
Finished
Before & After
Original
Sanded
Finished
Before & After
iH8DemLibz
When All Else Fails.
Try Formby's Furniture Remover to remove the old finish.
Let the stock dry for several days prior to sanding.
An alcohol based stain works better than an oil based stain on hard wood like Birch. Better penetration and evaporates very quickly.
Then a coat or two of BLO or Watco's Danish Oil.
And don't forget. Before and after pics are a must.
Let the stock dry for several days prior to sanding.
An alcohol based stain works better than an oil based stain on hard wood like Birch. Better penetration and evaporates very quickly.
Then a coat or two of BLO or Watco's Danish Oil.
And don't forget. Before and after pics are a must.
Biggfoot44
Ultimate Member
- Aug 2, 2009
- 33,525
St@in option@l . If wishing w@lnut-like finish , st@in needed , but this is oportunity to let your cre@tivity out.
Linseed is Old School ( to me th@ts good thing ). Cl@ssic look , ez to touchup when needed.
Polyur@th@ne is New School. Strongest/ h@rdes/ longest l@sting. The fin@l surf@ce finish could be m@tte to high gloss ,& @nywhere inbetween. Spot touchup is difficult , p@rticul@rily with the shinier finishes.
Even though I'm gener@lly Old School , s@tin Poly is not too b@d looking.
Linseed is Old School ( to me th@ts good thing ). Cl@ssic look , ez to touchup when needed.
Polyur@th@ne is New School. Strongest/ h@rdes/ longest l@sting. The fin@l surf@ce finish could be m@tte to high gloss ,& @nywhere inbetween. Spot touchup is difficult , p@rticul@rily with the shinier finishes.
Even though I'm gener@lly Old School , s@tin Poly is not too b@d looking.
byf43
SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
For my first K98k, I used 3M "Safe Stripper" on the stock, then Denatured Alcohol, followed by Formula 409 (to removed oil and grease).
There were other steps to remove GREASE from the wrist of the stock.
I finished the stock with 4 coats of hand-rubbed Danish Oil, and letting each coat sit for 24 hours before buffing with a cotton rag.
I've got over 40..... closer to 60 hours in this stock.
No "Before" photos. It was almost black.
After:
There were other steps to remove GREASE from the wrist of the stock.
I finished the stock with 4 coats of hand-rubbed Danish Oil, and letting each coat sit for 24 hours before buffing with a cotton rag.
I've got over 40..... closer to 60 hours in this stock.
No "Before" photos. It was almost black.
After:
