Recommended 556 223 Headspace Gauges?

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  • GuitarmanNick

    Ultimate Member
    Jan 9, 2017
    2,233
    Laurel
    I am fairly certain that 5.56 and .223 are different when it comes to head space. Checked my 5.56 toys with a field gauge. If the bolt closes on the field gauge, you have a problem. So far, haven't seen any I have checked even come close.
    A little less expensive than Go/No go, or 3 gauge sets. For checking a precision .223 rifle, the extra investment may be advisable.
     

    outrider58

    Cold Damp Spaces
    MDS Supporter
    I am fairly certain that 5.56 and .223 are different when it comes to head space. Checked my 5.56 toys with a field gauge. If the bolt closes on the field gauge, you have a problem. So far, haven't seen any I have checked even come close.
    A little less expensive than Go/No go, or 3 gauge sets. For checking a precision .223 rifle, the extra investment may be advisable.
    Same here.
     

    Garet Jax

    Not ignored by gamer_jim
    MDS Supporter
    May 5, 2011
    6,818
    Bel Air
    I am fairly certain that 5.56 and .223 are different when it comes to head space. Checked my 5.56 toys with a field gauge. If the bolt closes on the field gauge, you have a problem. So far, haven't seen any I have checked even come close.
    A little less expensive than Go/No go, or 3 gauge sets. For checking a precision .223 rifle, the extra investment may be advisable.

    Same here.


    Think you guys are right. Forester has SAAMI and NATO headspace gauges. NATO is 556 and SAAMI is 223.
     

    JohnnyE

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 18, 2013
    9,695
    MoCo
    @clandestine is your go-to for go, no-go and field gauges. He modifies the gauges so you don't need to strip the bolt of its extractor and ejector to get accurate gauging. I've gotten great use from the my set, and so have those to whom I've loaned them.
     

    rbird7282

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 6, 2012
    18,786
    Columbia
    @clandestine is your go-to for go, no-go and field gauges. He modifies the gauges so you don't need to strip the bolt of its extractor and ejector to get accurate gauging. I've gotten great use from the my set, and so have those to whom I've loaned them.
    AFAIK, he doesn't make them anymore.
     

    rbird7282

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 6, 2012
    18,786
    Columbia
    Ooh, then I shall cherish my set all the more. If anyone wants to borrow them, let me know via PM and we'll work something out.
    Yeah I made the mistake of not ordering a set from him. They're so much easier to use without have to take anything apart.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,767
    Glen Burnie
    @clandestine is your go-to for go, no-go and field gauges. He modifies the gauges so you don't need to strip the bolt of its extractor and ejector to get accurate gauging. I've gotten great use from the my set, and so have those to whom I've loaned them.
    One of the sets I have has the little cutout for the ejector, but I also have the Tipton Ultra Gun Vise that has a setup specifically for the task of removing the ejector - it's actually not difficult or time consuming for me at all to remove the ejector from the bolt, or get it put back together, but I can see why those gauges might be desirable for some.

    My 5.56 Nato set is Clymer, my 223 set is Forster. I do not have a field gauge, and I have yet to gauge a rifle that would close on a NG gauge. After reading this article it would seem that for practical purposes, a single set of gauges would be all that would actually be required, but I'm sure that there is still debate on the subject. FWIW, in my personal experience fiddling with both sets and gauging just the rifles in my possession in these two calibers, which amounts to 5 total, (3x5.56, 1x223 Wylde, 1x223 Rem) both sets of gauges seemed to function identically.

     

    JohnnyE

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 18, 2013
    9,695
    MoCo
    My Clymer set does not require removing the extractor. They are beveled on one side.
    With a gauge OEM doing Chad's work I can understand why he would not be going it anymore.
    One of the sets I have has the little cutout for the ejector, but I also have the Tipton Ultra Gun Vise that has a setup specifically for the task of removing the ejector - it's actually not difficult or time consuming for me at all to remove the ejector from the bolt, or get it put back together, but I can see why those gauges might be desirable for some.

    My 5.56 Nato set is Clymer, my 223 set is Forster. I do not have a field gauge, and I have yet to gauge a rifle that would close on a NG gauge. After reading this article it would seem that for practical purposes, a single set of gauges would be all that would actually be required, but I'm sure that there is still debate on the subject. FWIW, in my personal experience fiddling with both sets and gauging just the rifles in my possession in these two calibers, which amounts to 5 total, (3x5.56, 1x223 Wylde, 1x223 Rem) both sets of gauges seemed to function identically.

    Thank you for this. Frankly, it's been so long since I got the gauges and checked out a rifle that this is almost all new to me all over again.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,767
    Glen Burnie
    With a gauge OEM doing Chad's work I can understand why he would not be going it anymore.

    Thank you for this. Frankly, it's been so long since I got the gauges and checked out a rifle that this is almost all new to me all over again.
    It's quite the rabbit hole.

    I have both sets of gauges because when I got a wild hair to build a couple of rifles, I figured that it would be better to be safe than sorry, so I picked up the 5.56 because that happened to be the chambering on the barrels I bought. I had two uppers that came pre-built, so I made a point to check those too - one was in 5.55 and the other 223 Wylde.

    Then when I built my bolt gun that was specifically 223 Remington, I wanted to get my headspace right, I made sure to get a set of gauges that were specific to that, although in hindsight, the 5.56 gauges would have probably been enough.

    I'm not sure I'll need a field gauge. I don't know how many more 5.56/223 rifles I'll build, although at least one more - I told my daughter I'd build her an AR too. :)
     

    outrider58

    Cold Damp Spaces
    MDS Supporter
    I have no problem pulling the ejectors. I can thin inspect the spring and bevel the ejector.

    An ejector tool makes this quite easy.

     

    Garet Jax

    Not ignored by gamer_jim
    MDS Supporter
    May 5, 2011
    6,818
    Bel Air
    One of the sets I have has the little cutout for the ejector, but I also have the Tipton Ultra Gun Vise that has a setup specifically for the task of removing the ejector - it's actually not difficult or time consuming for me at all to remove the ejector from the bolt, or get it put back together, but I can see why those gauges might be desirable for some.

    My 5.56 Nato set is Clymer, my 223 set is Forster. I do not have a field gauge, and I have yet to gauge a rifle that would close on a NG gauge. After reading this article it would seem that for practical purposes, a single set of gauges would be all that would actually be required, but I'm sure that there is still debate on the subject. FWIW, in my personal experience fiddling with both sets and gauging just the rifles in my possession in these two calibers, which amounts to 5 total, (3x5.56, 1x223 Wylde, 1x223 Rem) both sets of gauges seemed to function identically.


    Thanks for this. The article is a little confusing. He says that 223 gauges and 556 NATO gauges are identical. When a commenter says they aren't (his AR closed on a 223 no-go gauge, but not the 556 no-go gauge), the author effectively says "That's what I said".

    I am thinking that 556 NATO is the set I want.
     

    trickg

    Guns 'n Drums
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 22, 2008
    14,767
    Glen Burnie
    Thanks for this. The article is a little confusing. He says that 223 gauges and 556 NATO gauges are identical. When a commenter says they aren't (his AR closed on a 223 no-go gauge, but not the 556 no-go gauge), the author effectively says "That's what I said".

    I am thinking that 556 NATO is the set I want.
    I didn't delve into the comments on that article - I took it at face value that the gauges were identical. Interesting. With that said, I'm ok with spending the extra to have both sets of gauges because I'll use the specific gauges for the caliber I'm checking or setting up.
     

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