Re-cut Checkering Tool

[pre64hunter]

When I'm fixing up stocks, sometimes the checkering needs fixed up. The diamonds are flattened or missing and worn, the borders are shallow and not even. I've used a curved checkering file from Brownells in the past but it is only good for fixing a few spots and makes a messy job.
I want to buy a checkering tool but it's confusing. Midway has a good video how to checker but I only want to touch up existing checkering.
I know there's different lines per inch and different cutters and styles. Then there's 75 and 90 degrees and push cut/pull cut, 3/8", 5/16", etc.
I do a lot of Browning stocks that have fine checkering and Winchester model 70 stocks that can have different LPI depending on the vintage.
I saw this one on Midway which looks like it just cuts a single line and used for layout, deepening the lines and repointing the diamonds. It might be what I need but there's different options as well.
Do I need a whole set of tools, a set for each LPI, a set with interchangeable heads, or is there a single tool that would work for me. I'm just interested in fixing up worn or damaged checking. Thanks.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020676951?pid=962957

 

[Doco Overboard]

I use Dem bart checkering tools with the carbide replaceable cutters. Not the U-view just the traditional cutters. Im not a master checkerer but have done more than a few stocks in simple-utility patterns. Every once in a while I'll cut a border.
The single point tool you posted looks like it would do a reasonably good job of pointing diamonds up. But what I cannot tell is what kind of diamonds it cuts. Some tools will cut English/American diamonds. Off the top of my head American diamonds are flat on the top, English pointed. (or vise -versa).

Double line cutters need to be made for the LPI so you would need multiple sets to cut more than one row at a time, also the border tools would have to be the same way unless you wanted a certain affect.

I always used the curved Swiss files for pointing diamonds up, repairing worn areas etc. Because they are tapered to a point and double ended they readily adapt to a very many pattern for refreshing /pointing up.
Usually they are what I use to correct mistakes or poorly cut lines instead of a viener becuase they are so well made and expensive. And cut so well.
I'm not sure what you mean by making a mess of things unless they are loading up with dirt/wax or old finish. Maybe they were used on some other type of medium and need to be replaced?

Sometimes wood is punky and soft which adds to the difficulty too. Not having a cradle to hold the work adds to the difficulty as well. Because you spend more time trying to hold a stock than focusing on the action of the tools and how they're cutting.

 

[pre64hunter]

So some diamonds are supposed to be flat on top? I always thought it was poor checking.
When I use the file, it's hard to keep the depth even and lines straight without jumping rows. A lot of the patterns have a border that need touched up. Currently I'm working on a Browning A-5 stock.
The tool I'm looking at has different options, 3/8" or 3/16" cutter? Push or Pull cut?
I'm thinking a 3/8" push cut 75 degrees. The 3/8" will help me keep the lines straight, push or pull cut?
I thought the degrees was the angle of the diamonds, but looking again I think it's the angle of the tool, not the cut.
Thanks, much appreciated.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020676951?pid=962957

 

[Doco Overboard]

So what I do is pull cut with the checkering tool itself. That’s how my set works. The reason is, I think if I was pushing and wood was not premium it would be very easy to run the tool straight through a soft spot or where the wood fibers were weak.
Tearing the fibers or breaking them out instead of filing cleanly cutting them.
With the file, I do push starting with the abruptly curved tapered portion but then quickly lowering the file to the long straight section to keep the line strait, avoid a run off and using the nose section as a sort of guide that helps to control depth.
Because my Dem Bart set cuts flat top diamonds on initial cuts, I always use the file to point them up making them sharp and pointed if that’s the effect I want.
Depending on the tool, the user will wind up with flat top diamonds at first, then point them up as the depth of the lines is increased. I use the file to do that because cutting full depth is not a good idea in case of error, crooked lines or wood break out etc.
I would think the file(s) are the best method for refreshening pointing up because they are the most versatile.
Yes their are two types of checkering, English/ American probably because of different wood species and the tendency for checkering to be done on best quality arms woods.
Birch, soft non dense walnut and beech come to mind for having fibers that are prone to tear like mass produced American guns. Diamond tops will tear shred real easy if your not careful or try to cut a line in one pass.

 

[pre64hunter]

Thanks Doco! Very helpful experienced instructions. I'm beginning to understand fully. I found some more helpful information, a video at Midway and a Brownell's article. I think I'll order the 90 degree tool from Midway for a start. I have a new curved file I'll keep for stock checkering only. As I go I'll add more tools. Thanks again.
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn/learndetail.aspx?lid=12594

 

[Doco Overboard]

I typed a long response and lost it working from phone,
Yes those files from Brownell’s are the cats meow.
You’ll want to stab someone with them if you catch them using them for anything else. I would venture to say their ruined when not cared for properly.
I would get both of them even though they’re pricey.
They should be all you need for pointing up/ refreshening.
I’ll go on later about how to rig up a cradle.
Once you establish your lay out lines to get correctly formed diamonds, you can if you choose just roll with it for basic patterns.
Checkering is one of things that if you don’t do it a lot or very often, it’s easy to fall into the trap of rushing or self imposed time distraction. Especially when you can see a certain amount of progress and are please with the results.

 

[Doco Overboard]

So Ill go on a little about rigging up a cradle.
Because you have to be able to hold the work and be able to access both right and left sides either from front or back.

The easiest way is to fix two stout L shaped brackets about 8-10" high to a 2x4. Bore the plank up to where you can move the brackets to and fro to accommodate different lengths of work. Counter bore one side to accommodate and use short carriage bolts(s) to the plank underside so its snag free. For when you slide it back and forth through the vise jaws.

With two bored holes about 3/8" diameter fashion a 8"length of all thread fixed to the top of the bracket with two flat washers and two wing nuts. Grind one end down to a point that can be tightly fitted to the buttstock directly behind the recoil plate.

For the muzzle end a 3/4 or 7/8" about 18" long hardwood dowel can be used to fit into the barrel channel. Secure the dowel firmly to the barrel channel with long strips of rubber bike inter tube cut to length with scissors or several lengths of surgical tubing. Dog them off firmly fixing the dowel to the barrel channel. On the opposite end of the L bracket, bore a hole to accept the dowel after you taper it, so it can rotate in the bracket but not with out some effort. So the work doesn't rotate on you unexpectedly.

Clamp the 2x4 in your shop vise or compound vise firmly and rotate the base to either a "Horse" set onto your bench top or blocks of wood to support the long end of the plank. What really happens is that once you have the work set up and begin, the stock will settle out due to the pressure applied to the tools and it shouldn't move once settled but you never know.

Or, for belt and suspenders cradle, clamp an appropriately sized piece of pipe firmly to a sturdy plank at two ends and then use two automotive connecting rods, the big end to the pipe. Use the small ends of the rod to support the dowel at the stock front and then the rear to a padded "cup" fashioned from scrap shop pieces for additional means of adjustment.
Make the cup as tall as the average stock butt.
The cradle is handy for different types of work like in-letting escutcheons, inlays or veneering in replacement wood bits making stock patches etc.

 

[pre64hunter]

Got the tools

The tools came yesterday. I got the checkering riffler from Brownells. The checkering riffler, the die sinker and the curved file differ in that the checkering riffler come to a sharp edge where the other two have a flat on the edge.
I got the other checkering tool from Midway.
Both tools are wicked sharp! I had to look at the Brownell's riffler with a magnifying glass to see if it actually had teeth. It seems humanly impossible that they could make a tool so sharp with such fine cutting edges. I'm keeping this one in the safe so no one uses it for anything other than checkering.

I started playing with some checkering after dinner and it wasn't going well. I was thinking belt sander! I looked at the clock and it was after midnight!
The Midway tool with the 75 degree angle cut nice sharp borders and deepened the lines but it didn't follow the checkering very well and I got crossed lines. The problem was the factory checkering wasn't that good either and there was major damage to the checking with spots a half inch or more missing. A LPI tool with a guide would have been better to fix missing diamonds.
The curved riffler though would follow the lines better and straightened things out.
Both tools served their purpose and deepened the lines. The next tool to get would be a 90 degree cutter to sharpen the tops of the diamonds.
I haven't given up, Thanks.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...heckering-rifflers/die-sinker-prod124980.aspx
notice the side bar showing the file profile

 

[gunstock99]

When I'm fixing up stocks, sometimes the checkering needs fixed up. The diamonds are flattened or missing and worn, the borders are shallow and not even. I've used a curved checkering file from Brownells in the past but it is only good for fixing a few spots and makes a messy job.
I want to buy a checkering tool but it's confusing. Midway has a good video how to checker but I only want to touch up existing checkering.
I know there's different lines per inch and different cutters and styles. Then there's 75 and 90 degrees and push cut/pull cut, 3/8", 5/16", etc.
I do a lot of Browning stocks that have fine checkering and Winchester model 70 stocks that can have different LPI depending on the vintage.
I saw this one on Midway which looks like it just cuts a single line and used for layout, deepening the lines and repointing the diamonds. It might be what I need but there's different options as well.
Do I need a whole set of tools, a set for each LPI, a set with interchangeable heads, or is there a single tool that would work for me. I'm just interested in fixing up worn or damaged checking. Thanks.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020676951?pid=962957

c-1 cutter and veiner is usually all you need unless there are sections of lines missing, then yes, you need individual cutters for each spacing : r-20, l-22 etc..
or send it to me 1 week turnaround on most jobs $100-$200 most all factory styles skipline included. example- nrowning A-5 recut $150, remington BDL $200.

 

[gunstock99]

When I'm fixing up stocks, sometimes the checkering needs fixed up. The diamonds are flattened or missing and worn, the borders are shallow and not even. I've used a curved checkering file from Brownells in the past but it is only good for fixing a few spots and makes a messy job.
I want to buy a checkering tool but it's confusing. Midway has a good video how to checker but I only want to touch up existing checkering.
I know there's different lines per inch and different cutters and styles. Then there's 75 and 90 degrees and push cut/pull cut, 3/8", 5/16", etc.
I do a lot of Browning stocks that have fine checkering and Winchester model 70 stocks that can have different LPI depending on the vintage.
I saw this one on Midway which looks like it just cuts a single line and used for layout, deepening the lines and repointing the diamonds. It might be what I need but there's different options as well.
Do I need a whole set of tools, a set for each LPI, a set with interchangeable heads, or is there a single tool that would work for me. I'm just interested in fixing up worn or damaged checking. Thanks.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1020676951?pid=962957

i use the C-1 to cut the master lines and finishing, if you can follow the existing lines thats all you need. otherwise you need pacer cutters for each lpi. 3-18 and 4-18 are right and left side cutters for 18lpi. 3-20 and 4-20 are for 20 lpi, 3-22 and 4-22 for 22lpi etc. A veiner is best for curved borders then chase with c-1. pay attention to old Browning stocks they are NOT true point patterns. it typically takes me 2-4 hrs to totally re-cut an A-5 or safari style {wrap forend}.

 

[303_enfield]

Gunstock99, what cutter would I need to fix the flat spots on this S&W set?
I need to clean them first and then some BLO.

 

[gunstock99]

Gunstock99, what cutter would I need to fix the flat spots on this S&W set?
I need to clean them first and then some BLO.

View attachment 403362

I would use the C-1 single line and be careful when you get to the edge. Treat the dembart checkering tool handle like pool cue! (Watch your English) keep it straight and inline and don't lean it. You'll be fine.

 

[303_enfield]

Thanks!