Project gun, or "this is why i prefer stainless"...

[Marylandfisherman]

This blued Ruger MK II spent a couple of years riding around in the leaky trunk of a 1977 Ford Granada.

It needs a LOT of surface rust removed, I have to detail strip the frame parts(the safety and bolt release are both currently solidly stuck in place), and decide how to refinish it. It also needs a recoil spring assembly.

for blued guns...

 

[vin]

Time to get a sandblaster!

 

[jimbobborg]

Did you leave it there or did you buy it like that? I'd get an aftermarket upper and parts for it and get the rest from Ruger.

 

[Marylandfisherman]

My mother left it there...

Once I got the bolt broke free, it moves freely in the upper. The bore is still nice and shiny, so I am just going to do with it what I can, with the minimum of replacement parts. So far, I know it needs grip screws and the recoil spring assembly, but I haven't broken it all the way down yet.

Once done, I am thinking Krylon...

 

[Marylandfisherman]

I had been thinking that I need to get some "no mar" type of punch, but on further reflection, does it really matter?

I mean, c'mon, look at that....

 

[GNLaFrance]

Stainless would've rusted too, just not quite so bad. Keep us in touch with this project, it's good to add to the knowledge base.

These might help:

Electrolytic Rust Removal

Electronic Rust Removal

Rust Removal using Electrolysis

 

[Deep Creek Rock]

Yup - Stainless, dosnt always mean rustless -they can rust too! Any firearm probably would have rusted in that storing condition.

 

[Onua]

Blast the parts with baking soda? I remember reading an article in a hot rod magazine about the process. IIRC it uses high pressure water and baking soda. Not sure how well it would work on the rust but they reported it was able to strip the old paint and rust without damaging the chrome trim or the glass.

 

[hvymax]

Sandblast and parkerize it for a durable finish. If you want to coat it dura or otherwise raw park is the best primer in the world.

 

[Marylandfisherman]

Super-duper 6 month no action update....

I almost forgot about this, sadly(my mom passed a couple of months ago and the wife and I were going thru her stuff that we had here) enough, and I am trying the "electrolytic method". Lots of rust and debris in the water, and I will show the results once completed...

Commercial rust removers were a dismal failure. This rust is deep...

 

[Marylandfisherman]

Pic, at 45 minutes or so in...

That water was clear when I started today.

 

[gmhowell]

Pic, at 45 minutes or so in...

That water was clear when I started today.

Then you dipped your toes in it?

 

[Marylandfisherman]

Then you dipped your toes in it?

That's my next step....ewwwwwww.....

 

[Jimbob2.0]

Stainless would've rusted too, just not quite so bad. Keep us in touch with this project, it's good to add to the knowledge base.

These might help:

Electrolytic Rust Removal

Electronic Rust Removal

Rust Removal using Electrolysis

Yup and at least you can always polish the heck out of stainless.

I would consider having it duracoated. Joe at Corsica does it well from some of the work I have seen.

 

[Marylandfisherman]

So far, all I have in the "vat" are the bolt and barrel assembly. All of the parts in the frame are currently rusted tight. We shall see how they turn out, and I will update this thread accordingly

 

[Marylandfisherman]

90% + of the thick rust is off. Amazing. I now have the safety moving, albeit with a fair amount of effort and a sharp rap applied.

New pics to come in the AM...

 

[Jackalope]

Wish I had seen this earlier I just got done doing what you're starting on and could have made the rust striping much easier. Evaprorust is a bio degradable non toxic rust remover that you an buy at Pep Boys for like $25 for a gallon jug. Just drop it in for 24 hours and its bare, clean metal ready to be polished.

For the finish if you'd like I could give you a hand with rust bluing it. Yes it takes FOREVER to do but it looks awesome and you need a jack hammer to get it off.

Also I wouldn't recommend sand blasting it as that an pit the metal, maybe try glass beading or walnut shells as that isn't as harsh as sand.

If you need any help PM me and I'll do my best to answer any questions.

Here's my latest before pics...

And here's the after...

 

[Maryland Hunter]

Sorry about your mom.

As far as the gun goes, you won't be able to buy a new lower, or frame, from Ruger. They don't sell them, so you need to make what you have work. Volquartzen sells an aftermarket from, and though nice, it would be cheaper ot buy a whole new gun. Tactical Solutions sells Pac-Lite barrel for them, but they are a bit pricey, and they need to go through the process just like a handgun purchase. Volquartzen sells a nice accurizing kit for around $100 IIRC, that gets you a target hammer, target triger, springs, etc. I put one in my MKIII 22/45, and it is awesome.

Keep the pics coming.

MH

 

[Marylandfisherman]

I detail stripped the frame, and the frame itself isn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. The safety and bolt hold-open lever were the worst parts, but I have them soaking in Liquid Wrench(the only thing I have handy at the moment), and will be putting the rest back into the "vat" with clean water. I will try and post pics later tonight.

Thanks for the encouragment guys, and I may take you up on the offer, jackalope.

Oh, and MH, thanks for the thought...