P38 Disassembly Question

[Rregdab]

Need a little help here.

I'm thoroughly disassembling a P38 for cleaning and can't figure out how to get the trigger connector plate off. In step 10 in this procedure http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-classics/13558-how-disassemble-p1-p38.html it looks simple. I can't see how this is possible without bending the plate.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[somd_mustangs]

Figured it out yet?

Your gun looks pretty clean already, late AC42, early AC43?
I definitely wouldn't mess with the decocking/safety mechanism in the slide if it already works properly.

First, I am not a gunsmith
And ... take pics as you go if you don't have the reference material

Here's what I do (from where your gun is at now, with grips off, sear spring and trigger bar spring removed, recoil springs & guides removed).

1) Hammer "down" (uncocked)
2) Push the frame down with the mag catch resting on a piece of wood, to disengage the mag catch pins. Then the whole kit and kaboodle comes out, hammer strut, spring, etc. Be careful of course, alot of spring tension.
3) Drift out the hammer pin and pull the hammer and the levers on each side out as a unit. Don't disassemble the small parts in the hammer any further.
4) Use a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers and relieve the pressure on the trigger spring where it rests on the front trigger bar pin (it sits in a small groove that holds the trigger bar in). Gently pull the slide release out the left side, which frees the trigger. Pull the trigger & spring out.
5) At this point the front of the trigger bar should be able to rotate outwards from the frame and clear the sear once it's about 45 degrees or so to the frame. There's a recess in behind the aft end of the bar. It might take a little finagling, and you may have to push the sear pin out first to get some clearance. If it's not coming out easily, or you're having to exert bending pressure of any kind, bad juju. Stop.
6) Push out the sear pin and pull the sear out, and the mag safety bar should be able to come out too.
7) The takedown lever can be popped out (carefully) if it's halfway between stowed and full forward. If you don't have to pull it out, don't. It's a pain to get back in.

Getting it all back together is pretty much the reverse.

Warning: DO NOT punch/pry the locking block pin ("signal pin") out of the barrel. It's in there to stay and you'll mess something up for sure.

Try one of these references:

"Walther P-38 Pistol" by Major George Nonte, the paperback reprint circa 1975 by Desert Publications is $15 well spent. Several on evilBay right now. The photos aren't as clear since it's a reprint on fairly cheap paper but it has what appears to be good directions.

Also try :
http://www.hlebooks.com/ebook/p38enload.htm
$8.50 ebook

I don't have this eBook but have several other eBooks by the same author (FN1922, Steyr Hahn, etc) and they vary from very good to excellent. They go into very detailed descriptions of tear-down (and reassembly) with pictures and some have animations of the firing sequence.

 

[Rregdab]

Figured it out yet?

Your gun looks pretty clean already, late AC42, early AC43?

Very good! It's an early AC43.

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply in such depth. If we ever cross paths, I owe you a tasty beverage of your choice. (Or several)

Thanks to your help, I have it apart and the frame is in the ultrasonic now. There's a good bit of redish brown splooge coming out of the nooks and crannies that I couldn't get a q-tip into before disassembly. I hope to be out in the backyard trying it out next week.

Also thanks for the pointers to the resources!