Mobile 1 synthetic??

[amoebicmagician]

I use Mobile 1, but recently have been told that atf (automatic transmission fluid) works better. I haven't tried it yet.

don't juse ATF

It smells godawful and will stain anything it touches, as well as irritate the shit out of your hands and mess up some plastics.

Just stick with the mobil 1

 

[amoebicmagician]

This article got me rethinking what kind of gun oil to use:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

After all his discussion he recommends:
1. Lubriplate FMO-AW (made for lubricating food processors)
2. NyOil (like ATF, but no odor, red dye, nontoxic)
3. Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

Grease recommendation: Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease

On motor oils:

I bought some of that lubriplate, and it's pretty unimpressive other than being non toxic

Milcomm T25B blows that shit out of the water- no comparison.

And I don't know how or why, but that dexron gets into your skin somehow and stains it, unlike other ATF which just smells like shit.

This article is a 1/1 paraphrased copy of something I read on the net like ten years ago

 

[amoebicmagician]

Here is a snippet from my AR Class about lubricants.

There’s a ton of wonder lubes, cleaners, and protectants on the market. Many will say how great they smell, how they are safer to use and some go as far as saying they can be consumed safety. Some will say how they are natural, or water based and therefore “safer”. That’s all fine and dandy but as soon as your gun is fired with “hippie” lube it’s contaminated with carbon and lead. When you shoot a gun you’re going to breathe nasty stuff. You will live, just wash your hands before you eat or drink. At some point you have to clean the firearm, so the “edible, natural, non-toxic” pitch is sort of moot wouldn’t you say? People say, well I use it so I don’t have to use gloves when I clean or lube my guns. Well, you should anyway, whether its “hippie lube” or “capitalist pig blood”. What many fail to realize is organic based lubricants will break down and can become corrosive over time. Then you will hear people say how things like “don’t use Motor Oil, it is a carcinogen”. That’s not true; petroleum products are not harmful until they are contaminated. Used motor oil is unsafe, not fresh motor oil. Fresh Crisco is safe, dump some lead residue and carbon in it, and it is no longer safe. If your lube says you need to use a hair dryer, have to measure its application, pray, or do special dances it’s probably ********. If too much of a “super lube” is bad then the lube itself might be bad. If the lube turns to goo when you mix it with regular gun lubes it’s not really that practical is it? You shouldn’t have to worry about using another product reacting poorly when used in place of “pixie dust hippie lube”. There is no one product that does everything well, if you use a CLP it’s not going to be the best lube, best cleaner, and the best protectant but it will work to keep an AR running. I prefer to use several products that are well suited for their task, are easy to use and apply, and don’t break the bank.

I use:
Wipe Out Foam or Patch Out Liquid Bore Cleaners. Tactical Advantage is specifically designed for the AR15 Bore, Chamber, Barrel Extension, Gas System, and can be diluted with water to clean the Bolt Carrier when you are maintaining your AR15. The above bore cleaners eliminate the need for any brushes, acids, ammonia, and abrasives. All you need are a Rod, Jag, and Patches. The stuff isn’t harmful to your barrel, but it can damage bare aluminum and oil based wood finishes. Since it can affect bare aluminum I suggest isolating the solvent by using a Receiver/Bore Guide equipped with an O-Ring.

For Lubricant I use Synthetic Motor Oil and Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. I have yet to find a more cost effective option per ounce. I do apply the Grease sparingly, but I use heavy amounts of Synthetic Motor Oil. The down side is Motor Oil is NOT a good protectant. To supplement the product Barricade or G96 mixes well with it. G96 smells great if that’s your thing.

For Barrel Assembly you can use Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease, but the proper product is Aeroshell 33MS.

For an EXTERNAL Protectant WD40 is pretty darn good, WD40 Specialist is even better. I suggest you only use it on the outside of the firearm though and blow off any excess. Contrary to popular opinion WD40 will gum up. Barricade is a good protectant and good lube. It comes out as a fine mist and is easy to apply without a rag. G96 does a good job too and smells better to most. All 3 products will safely coexist with Synthetic Motor Oil

Wait, which specialist, the silicone or one of the others? If there's something that works better than WD-40 for moirsture suppression I'm all over it

 

[clandestine]

Wait, which specialist, the silicone or one of the others? If there's something that works better than WD-40 for moirsture suppression I'm all over it

The Specialist "Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor" label.

I dont suggest any of it for internals or for moving exterior surfaces. Its just for static externals.

 

[Magnumite]

"And I don't know how or why, but that dexron gets into your skin somehow and stains it, unlike other ATF which just smells like shit."

I rebuilt auto transmissions regularly for years and my hands were always cleanest after the rebuild. It has a very high detergent quality. As far as the smell...I don't use it for aftershave...

Lube threads are always fun

 

[teratos]

I listen to Chad and save money. Mobil 1 oil, and Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease when I need grease.

 

[Boom Boom]

Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease when I need grease.

Don't forget behind your ears, doc.

Is that the secret of your amazing hair?

 

[clandestine]

Don't forget behind your ears, doc.

Is that the secret of your amazing hair?

He will never tell!

 

[Scottysan]

good for chafing too... really sticks where you put it!

 

[Straightshooter]

I thought everyone knew that Amsoil is a much better synthetic motor oil than Mobile One. If you really care about your guns, use the good stuff.

 

[Mini14tac]

Anyone had any experience with Lucas Extreme Duty Gun Oil?

 

[Lou45]

Yes, it does.

I got super butthurt because Clandestine told me I was wasting all my moniez

he was right right a thousand times right.

Now all I use is ballistol for cleaning, mobil 1 for general lube, and milcomme 2500 and t25b for oil/grease roles respectively when I want to coniditon the metal with teflon or need it to have super crazy performance. That's all- all the rest I gave away.

You'll be amazed, the more you use the mobil 1, the less carbon will want to stick to the metal, I guess because of detergent or something?

All I know is I dip all my phosphate BCGs before reassembly after cleaning and literally every single one of my guns runs the better for it, and where I used to have to pry the hard carbon off with a piece of aluminum or brass of the bolt tail, now it barely adheres at all- go figure, a lubricant made to keep carbon from adhering to your engine will keep carbon from adhering to hot metal surfaces- SHOCKER!

Seriously though, I felt like an idiot for not realizing it sooner.

I run it. My guns are just slow running engines...

Pretty much all I use anymore.

Here is a snippet from my AR Class about lubricants.

There’s a ton of wonder lubes, cleaners, and protectants on the market. Many will say how great they smell, how they are safer to use and some go as far as saying they can be consumed safety. Some will say how they are natural, or water based and therefore “safer”. That’s all fine and dandy but as soon as your gun is fired with “hippie” lube it’s contaminated with carbon and lead. When you shoot a gun you’re going to breathe nasty stuff. You will live, just wash your hands before you eat or drink. At some point you have to clean the firearm, so the “edible, natural, non-toxic” pitch is sort of moot wouldn’t you say? People say, well I use it so I don’t have to use gloves when I clean or lube my guns. Well, you should anyway, whether its “hippie lube” or “capitalist pig blood”. What many fail to realize is organic based lubricants will break down and can become corrosive over time. Then you will hear people say how things like “don’t use Motor Oil, it is a carcinogen”. That’s not true; petroleum products are not harmful until they are contaminated. Used motor oil is unsafe, not fresh motor oil. Fresh Crisco is safe, dump some lead residue and carbon in it, and it is no longer safe. If your lube says you need to use a hair dryer, have to measure its application, pray, or do special dances it’s probably ********. If too much of a “super lube” is bad then the lube itself might be bad. If the lube turns to goo when you mix it with regular gun lubes it’s not really that practical is it? You shouldn’t have to worry about using another product reacting poorly when used in place of “pixie dust hippie lube”. There is no one product that does everything well, if you use a CLP it’s not going to be the best lube, best cleaner, and the best protectant but it will work to keep an AR running. I prefer to use several products that are well suited for their task, are easy to use and apply, and don’t break the bank.

I use:
Wipe Out Foam or Patch Out Liquid Bore Cleaners. Tactical Advantage is specifically designed for the AR15 Bore, Chamber, Barrel Extension, Gas System, and can be diluted with water to clean the Bolt Carrier when you are maintaining your AR15. The above bore cleaners eliminate the need for any brushes, acids, ammonia, and abrasives. All you need are a Rod, Jag, and Patches. The stuff isn’t harmful to your barrel, but it can damage bare aluminum and oil based wood finishes. Since it can affect bare aluminum I suggest isolating the solvent by using a Receiver/Bore Guide equipped with an O-Ring.

For Lubricant I use Synthetic Motor Oil and Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. I have yet to find a more cost effective option per ounce. I do apply the Grease sparingly, but I use heavy amounts of Synthetic Motor Oil. The down side is Motor Oil is NOT a good protectant. To supplement the product Barricade or G96 mixes well with it. G96 smells great if that’s your thing.

For Barrel Assembly you can use Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease, but the proper product is Aeroshell 33MS.

For an EXTERNAL Protectant WD40 is pretty darn good, WD40 Specialist is even better. I suggest you only use it on the outside of the firearm though and blow off any excess. Contrary to popular opinion WD40 will gum up. Barricade is a good protectant and good lube. It comes out as a fine mist and is easy to apply without a rag. G96 does a good job too and smells better to most. All 3 products will safely coexist with Synthetic Motor Oil

I listen to Chad and save money. Mobil 1 oil, and Mobil synthetic wheel bearing grease when I need grease.

The above posts pretty much say it all, Use Mobil 1 and have a nice life boys and girls. I use it in my guns and my buggy, so if I need to lube it at the range and forgot my Mobil 1 lube, I jus' pull out my dipstick.

 

[teratos]

The above posts pretty much say it all, Use Mobil 1 and have a nice life boys and girls. I use it in my guns and my buggy, so if I need to lube it at the range and forgot my Mobil 1 lube, I jus' pull out my dipstick.

Do you slather it all over your big Johnson?

 

[BigDaddy]

I thought everyone knew that Amsoil is a much better synthetic motor oil than Mobile One. If you really care about your guns, use the good stuff.

But it doesn't have the same amount of Zinc for your valve tappets.

Wait, we are having an oil thread on a gun forum. That's what we mentally self abuse ourselves on motorcycle forums in the winter

Where am I?

 

[teratos]

But it doesn't have the same amount of Zinc for your valve tappets.

Wait, we are having an oil thread on a gun forum. That's what we mentally self abuse ourselves on motorcycle forums in the winter

Where am I?

I think it has 3% Zinc.

 

[Lou45]

Do you slather it all over your big Johnson?

This ^^^ post sure made it to the "out of context" thread really quick.

 

[Straightshooter]

But it doesn't have the same amount of Zinc for your valve tappets.

Wait, we are having an oil thread on a gun forum. That's what we mentally self abuse ourselves on motorcycle forums in the winter

Where am I?

I used to run Harley Syn 3 (Citgo) in the Ultra. On trips to Key West, it would burn off 1/2 qt each way . I switched to Amsoil and didn't have to add any because it did not burn off. If Amsoil can do this for a motorcycle, just imagine how many rounds I can shoot without an oil change.

 

[Lou45]

Do you slather it all over your big Johnson?

Well you're a doc and you know how some of those womenz folk can get a li'l dry from time to time an' ol' Sarah needs a li'l help occasionally........

 

[Boom Boom]

I used to run Harley Syn 3 (Citgo) in the Ultra. On trips to Key West, it would burn off 1/2 qt each way . I switched to Amsoil and didn't have to add any because it did not burn off. If Amsoil can do this for a motorcycle, just imagine how many rounds I can shoot without an oil change.

The Citgo is probably hydrocracked mineral oil (Group III). Group III is not a true synthetic. Mostly just marketing fluff. High-end stuff like Amsoil and Royal Purple are true synthetics consisting of Group IV (PAO) and/or Group V (Esters), with better viscosity index and low volatility compared to non-synthetics. Low volatility is why your bike didn't burn off the Amsoil.

 

[BeoBill]

I thought everyone knew that Amsoil is a much better synthetic motor oil than Mobile One. If you really care about your guns, use the good stuff.

I really doubt that the internals of your gun will be subjected to the constant high temps/acid levels and particulate contamination that your crankcase sees. Just sayin'...