Lube recommendations and cleaning set

[Ar1b3nz]

I was wondering was the best lube that you guys have used and still use for cleaning your AR and keeping your Bolt nice and wet.

Can anyone point me where to get a nice cleaning set for the AR, I prefer something with flexible rods if it’s possible.

 

[Russ D]

I either use Mobil 1 or SLP2000. Both work very well and stay wet the longest.

 

[Ab_Normal]

Mobil1 is probably the best value when it comes to keeping firearms frequently (like the AR likes) lubricated.

YMMV

 

[Ar1b3nz]

Thanks for the info Russ and Ab_Normal

 

[Ab_Normal]

Thanks for the info Russ and Ab_Normal

As far as cleaning goes just lube it and shoot it with a cursory wipe down every now and then. Spotless cleaning does more to harm good firearms than limited frequent maintenance.

 

[Russ D]

As for cleaning I only use Dewey coated rods and Wipe Out cleaner with either a cleaning jag or good brush.

 

[Demoneyes86]

I have been using lucas gun oil. I like it seems to hold up quite well. I clean my guns every few trips out.

 

[stricer555]

I bought a big bottle of slip2000 EWL, seems to do the job well.

 

[dieselfarmboy]

What kind of Mobil 1?

 

[Numidian]

What kind of Mobil 1?

I use 0w10 Full Synthetic.

 

[mopar92]

0w40 Synthetic.

 

[stu929]

I currently use Mobil 1 but I have heard militec is great just got some trial bottles

 

[Russ D]

I currently use Mobil 1 but I have heard militec is great just got some trial bottles

Militec is trash, stick to the Mobil 1

 

[Indiana Jones]

I use motor oil as well. Read about it in a thread here. I tried it and never looked back. As for cleaning a few years ago I got a $30 Winchester "all in one" cleaning set. It's got all the calibre you can think of and it's lasted very well. Comes in a briefcase. For $30 it's a great value.

 

[BradMacc82]

I either use Mobil 1 or SLP2000. Both work very well and stay wet the longest.

^This!!

+1

I only use Slip2000 on my AR (although most of my guns now have been treated to Slip2000), aside from a dab of heavy grease on the charging handle, smoothes out the pull (IMO anyways).

The Winchester all-in-one box is nice to have around too, although for the most part I'm able to get away with just boresnaking mine, only times I've really had to rod/patch it was when I let it sit for too long before cleaning.

 

[clandestine]

If you use ANY Corrosive Ammo in your firearms, then PLEASE read this post first:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?p=1078473#post1078473


General Cleaner and Protectant

-Ballistol LIQUID (Do NOT get the Aerosol Version). You mix it with Water and follow these Instructions:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=56218

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=48119/pid=22502/sku/16_oz__Liquid

The cost savings and effectiveness of this product can’t be matched. From ONE Bottle mixed with water you get almost 2 Gallons of "Mix".

I use the Ballistol/Water mix to clean the external and internals. Ballistol is a good protectant and an ok lube but cleans great when used with water. You spray down the gun over a sink with the mix and let it soak for a few minutes. Break out the brushes and scrub away. After you have broken up all of the deposits use the mix again and spray it off well. All of the contaminants will flow off. All that’s left if Water and the Ballistol (Oil). The Water evaporates and leaves a thin protective coating of Oil (Ballistol). The layer of Oil (Ballistol) is so thin I ALWAYS recommend adding more Oil to lubricate the gun adequately (This is where Syn Motor Oil comes in).

Another positive plus is Ballistol/Water mixture is the Best Corrosive Ammo Cleaner you can use so no matter what kind of ammo you use your ONE cleaning regiment will cover all ammo selections.

If you aren’t comfortable with using the above product with water then my recommended alternatives are: Breakfree CLP, G96, and Weaponshield


Bore Cleaning (Copper, and Carbon)

-Wipe Out Bore Foam (No Brushes Needed)

This is the BEST bore cleaner I have ever tried, it’s not harmful to your bore and it works better than any other bore cleaner I have tried. It takes about one hour per application to work.

http://www.eabco.com/WipeOut.htm


-Wipe Out Accelerator (No Brushes Needed)

I also and highly recommend Wipe Out Accelerator, this product cuts bore cleaning time down to about 30 mins when you apply it to the bore before applying Bore Foam.

http://www.eabco.com/cgi-bin/shopper.exe?preadd=action&key=111-800


Lubricants

- Mobil 1 or Valvoline Synthetic 30W to 50W Motor Oil (I personally prefer 0W50, if not available would chose 10W40)

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

I dip the whole AR15 and AK Bolt Assemblies into the Syn. Motor Oil. Breakfree and other lubes burn off too fast, especially on an AR, and the Syn. Motor Oil will stay put after almost one thousand rounds with a properly tuned AR.

-Red Wheel Bearing Grease

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

I use this on high friction areas such as:
AR15 Charging Handles and the Upper Receiver Charging Handle Slot (Lightly)
AR15 Bolt Carrier Rails (Lightly)
AR15 Recoil Spring (Gets Rid of the “Sprong” Noise)
Auto Pistol Locking Lug areas and Slide Rails
Bolt Action Locking Lug Areas (Lightly)
Fire Control Group Parts
Bolt Raceways (Lightly)
AK47 Locking Lug Areas (Lightly)


Degreasers

-Gun Scrubber (Don’t use on Painted Finishes like some AK’s have)

Brake Cleaner can be used as a cheaper substitute but be sure that ALL Plastic and Wood Items are removed first. Brake Cleaner can SERIOUSLY damage wood and Plastic finishes, Gun Scrubber is a little more forgiving but can still do damage.


Lead Removal

-Wipe Out "No-Lead" Brushless Lead Remover

http://www.sharpshootr.com/no-lead.htm

-Lewis Lead Remover for Cylinders, Chambers and Bores

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS_LEAD_REMOVER


-Lead Removing Cloth for Cylinder Faces

Don’t use on Lead Removing Cloth on Blued Finishes, it will remove the Bluing.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4956/Product/LEAD_REMOVER_CLOTH


Wood Cleaner/Protectant

-Scott’s Liquid Gold

http://www.scottsliquidgold.com/scotts-liquid-gold/


Water Displacement (Gun gets drenched or falls into the water)

-WD40

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

You should try to blow ALL WD40 out of your firearm with an air compressor. If any WD40 is left inside, it will dry up like wax and gun your firearm up. After blowing all of the WD40 then apply some Breakfree, or Ballistol.

UPDATED: Guns Exposed to Salt Water (Thanks to Streetgang )

"We used to swim with our weapons all the time. After training/missions we would first rinse with fresh water to remove the salt water.
Next step was to blow it off as much as possible with compressed air. Then if the guns were shot, we'd soak in diesel or kerosene for 30 minutes or so.
After the soaking brush on pine oil and pour into places where the brush wouldn't reach.
Let soak a few minutes and re-rinse with fresh water, blow dry with compressed air then CLP or LSAT in cold environment. Sounds pretty harsh but works very well."

Bedding Material

-Steel Bed

For a Bolt Gun heres a really good tutorial (He uses a different bedding material though).

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022


Seized/Rusted Parts

-PB Blaster

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4


Magazine Lubricant

-Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

Safe on all finishes and leaves a slick internal coating that won’t let firing residue stick or build up.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_235860-1409-M914_0_?productId=3026977&Ntt=silicone%20spray&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=silicone%20spray


Carbon Buildup

-Slip2000 Carbon Killer

Just dip the part in the solvent, It Smells like citrus, and leave for a couple of hours. The carbon will come off MUCH easier. I like this product for cleaning Gas Pistons and AR15 BCG Parts.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=49564/pid=23534/sku/Carbon_Killer__16_oz_


Outer Gun Care/Wipe downs

-Birchwood Casey "Barricade"

I use this on the outside of my weapons. I like its protective properties and the way is sprays out of the nozzle. It "mists" upon exit and easily covers large areas of your weapon without waste, and it doesn’t smell bad either. WD40 is also a good wipe down product but it can get tacky.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4955/Product/SHEATH_BARRICADE


Leather Care

-Pecards

Only available direct from the Manufacturer

http://www.pecard.com/


Wood Repairs

-Super Glue


Optics Lens Cleaning (3 Parts)

-Canned Air (Clear the Lens)

Can be purchased at any Office Supply Store, Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot

Use this to blow debris off the lenses, just short bursts.


-Brushes/Cloth (Wipe the Lens)

Leupold Lens Pen

http://www.leupold.com/tactical/pro...nd-accessories/tools-and-accessories/lenspen/

Or

Otis Lens/Optics Cleaner Kit

http://www.otisgun.com/cgistore/sto...=177&idp=330&his=0|1|330&cart_id=2289123.2596


-Denatured Alcohol (Clean the Lens)

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot

Before using ANY Solvents or Cleaners on your Lenses I HIGHLY recommend checking the Manufacturers Instruction Manual. Some optics have certain cleaning requirements, and the wrong cleaning products can harm the lens coating.


Bore Lapping

-JB Bore Paste

I use this for cleaning really fouled barrels or for lapping bores.


Anti Lockers/Antiseize

-Permatex Antiseize Lubricant

Can be purchased at any Auto Parts Store

I use this for Muzzle Loader Breach Plugs and Nipples. It keeps them from locking up in the gun.


Thread Lockers

-Rocksett

Used for Muzzle Devices/Flash Hiders/Compensators

http://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Rocksett-2-OZ/dp/B001C1D800

-Loctite Red #271

Used for permanent applications.

-Loctite Blue #242

For screws that will be removed to various purposes/maintenance.

-Loctite Green #620

I use this for Sights and any parts that need a surface bond

-Finger Nail Polish (Preferably Clear)

Buy pretty much at any Pharmacy or Walmart

I use this for Bolt Action Trigger Adjustment Screws. Its locks them down but isn’t too strong to keep from future adjustment.

(Breakdown of Loctite)
222 - Purple - Low strength threadlocker, designed for percision metal fasteners under 3/4". Protect threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure Speed 20 min. Full 24 hrs.

243 - Blue - Medium strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Cures reliably even on stainless steel. Tolerant of oil and other contamination. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Parts can be disassembled with hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 15 min. Full 24 hrs.

262 - Red - Permanent strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Designed for extreem enviromental/chemical conditions. Especially useful for holding tight Grade 5 and 8 fasteners. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Localized heating and hand tools required for disassembly. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 30 min. Full 24 hrs.

270 - Green - High strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Secures long studs and bolts. Intended for parts that do not require disassembly. Cures fast and reliably on most metal surfaces. Seals threads against industrial fluids. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 15 min. Full 24 hrs.

272 - Red - Hi-temp/hi-strength formula. Suited for temperatures up to 450 degrees F. Fast cure on most surfaces including "as received" fasteners. Recommended for bolts up to 1 1/2" in diameter. Heat and hand tools required for disassemgly. Temp range -65 to 450 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.

277 - Red - High strength for locking fasteners up to 1 1/2". Prevents fasteners from loosening due to shock, heat or vibration (Good for Harley-Davidson parts). Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with heat and hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.

290 - Green - Medium strength threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2". Penetrates threads by capillary action: simplifies preventive maintenance. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Used to seal welds and porous metal parts. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 10 min. Full 24 hrs.

Steel Touchup (Not Stainless)

-Brownells 44/40

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1112/Product/FORMULA_44_40_reg__INSTANT_GUN_BLUE

or

-Oxphoblue

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_


Aluminum Touchup

-Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4941/Product/ALUMINUM_BLACK


Aluminum Constructed Flashlight and Optical Gun Sights Thread Lube

-NyoGel #760

http://www.lighthound.com/NyoGel-760G-50-gram-tube_p_1345.html



Chad Albrecht (Gunsmith)

 

[Maverick0313]

Can 't get much better info than this!

If you use ANY Corrosive Ammo in your firearms, then PLEASE read this post first:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?p=1078473#post1078473


General Cleaner and Protectant

-Ballistol LIQUID (Do NOT get the Aerosol Version). You mix it with Water and follow these Instructions:
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=56218

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=48119/pid=22502/sku/16_oz__Liquid

The cost savings and effectiveness of this product can’t be matched. From ONE Bottle mixed with water you get almost 2 Gallons of "Mix".

I use the Ballistol/Water mix to clean the external and internals. Ballistol is a good protectant and an ok lube but cleans great when used with water. You spray down the gun over a sink with the mix and let it soak for a few minutes. Break out the brushes and scrub away. After you have broken up all of the deposits use the mix again and spray it off well. All of the contaminants will flow off. All that’s left if Water and the Ballistol (Oil). The Water evaporates and leaves a thin protective coating of Oil (Ballistol). The layer of Oil (Ballistol) is so thin I ALWAYS recommend adding more Oil to lubricate the gun adequately (This is where Syn Motor Oil comes in).

Another positive plus is Ballistol/Water mixture is the Best Corrosive Ammo Cleaner you can use so no matter what kind of ammo you use your ONE cleaning regiment will cover all ammo selections.

If you aren’t comfortable with using the above product with water then my recommended alternatives are: Breakfree CLP, G96, and Weaponshield


Bore Cleaning (Copper, and Carbon)

-Wipe Out Bore Foam (No Brushes Needed)

This is the BEST bore cleaner I have ever tried, it’s not harmful to your bore and it works better than any other bore cleaner I have tried. It takes about one hour per application to work.

http://www.eabco.com/WipeOut.htm


-Wipe Out Accelerator (No Brushes Needed)

I also and highly recommend Wipe Out Accelerator, this product cuts bore cleaning time down to about 30 mins when you apply it to the bore before applying Bore Foam.

http://www.eabco.com/cgi-bin/shopper.exe?preadd=action&key=111-800


Lubricants

- Mobil 1 or Valvoline Synthetic 30W to 50W Motor Oil (I personally prefer 0W50, if not available would chose 10W40)

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

I dip the whole AR15 and AK Bolt Assemblies into the Syn. Motor Oil. Breakfree and other lubes burn off too fast, especially on an AR, and the Syn. Motor Oil will stay put after almost one thousand rounds with a properly tuned AR.

-Red Wheel Bearing Grease

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

I use this on high friction areas such as:
AR15 Charging Handles and the Upper Receiver Charging Handle Slot (Lightly)
AR15 Bolt Carrier Rails (Lightly)
AR15 Recoil Spring (Gets Rid of the “Sprong” Noise)
Auto Pistol Locking Lug areas and Slide Rails
Bolt Action Locking Lug Areas (Lightly)
Fire Control Group Parts
Bolt Raceways (Lightly)
AK47 Locking Lug Areas (Lightly)


Degreasers

-Gun Scrubber (Don’t use on Painted Finishes like some AK’s have)

Brake Cleaner can be used as a cheaper substitute but be sure that ALL Plastic and Wood Items are removed first. Brake Cleaner can SERIOUSLY damage wood and Plastic finishes, Gun Scrubber is a little more forgiving but can still do damage.


Lead Removal

-Wipe Out "No-Lead" Brushless Lead Remover

http://www.sharpshootr.com/no-lead.htm

-Lewis Lead Remover for Cylinders, Chambers and Bores

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=21587/Product/LEWIS_LEAD_REMOVER


-Lead Removing Cloth for Cylinder Faces

Don’t use on Lead Removing Cloth on Blued Finishes, it will remove the Bluing.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4956/Product/LEAD_REMOVER_CLOTH


Wood Cleaner/Protectant

-Scott’s Liquid Gold

http://www.scottsliquidgold.com/scotts-liquid-gold/


Water Displacement (Gun gets drenched or falls into the water)

-WD40

Available at Walmart, Costco, BJ’s or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

You should try to blow ALL WD40 out of your firearm with an air compressor. If any WD40 is left inside, it will dry up like wax and gun your firearm up. After blowing all of the WD40 then apply some Breakfree, or Ballistol.

UPDATED: Guns Exposed to Salt Water (Thanks to Streetgang )

"We used to swim with our weapons all the time. After training/missions we would first rinse with fresh water to remove the salt water.
Next step was to blow it off as much as possible with compressed air. Then if the guns were shot, we'd soak in diesel or kerosene for 30 minutes or so.
After the soaking brush on pine oil and pour into places where the brush wouldn't reach.
Let soak a few minutes and re-rinse with fresh water, blow dry with compressed air then CLP or LSAT in cold environment. Sounds pretty harsh but works very well."

Bedding Material

-Steel Bed

For a Bolt Gun heres a really good tutorial (He uses a different bedding material though).

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1167022


Seized/Rusted Parts

-PB Blaster

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4


Magazine Lubricant

-Liquid Wrench Silicone Spray

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot or any Auto Parts Store will have it.

Safe on all finishes and leaves a slick internal coating that won’t let firing residue stick or build up.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_235860-1409-M914_0_?productId=3026977&Ntt=silicone%20spray&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=silicone%20spray


Carbon Buildup

-Slip2000 Carbon Killer

Just dip the part in the solvent, It Smells like citrus, and leave for a couple of hours. The carbon will come off MUCH easier. I like this product for cleaning Gas Pistons and AR15 BCG Parts.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=49564/pid=23534/sku/Carbon_Killer__16_oz_


Outer Gun Care/Wipe downs

-Birchwood Casey "Barricade"

I use this on the outside of my weapons. I like its protective properties and the way is sprays out of the nozzle. It "mists" upon exit and easily covers large areas of your weapon without waste, and it doesn’t smell bad either. WD40 is also a good wipe down product but it can get tacky.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4955/Product/SHEATH_BARRICADE


Leather Care

-Pecards

Only available direct from the Manufacturer

http://www.pecard.com/


Wood Repairs

-Super Glue


Optics Lens Cleaning (3 Parts)

-Canned Air (Clear the Lens)

Can be purchased at any Office Supply Store, Walmart, Lowes, or Home Depot

Use this to blow debris off the lenses, just short bursts.


-Brushes/Cloth (Wipe the Lens)

Leupold Lens Pen

http://www.leupold.com/tactical/pro...nd-accessories/tools-and-accessories/lenspen/

Or

Otis Lens/Optics Cleaner Kit

http://www.otisgun.com/cgistore/sto...=177&idp=330&his=0|1|330&cart_id=2289123.2596


-Denatured Alcohol (Clean the Lens)

Available at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot

Before using ANY Solvents or Cleaners on your Lenses I HIGHLY recommend checking the Manufacturers Instruction Manual. Some optics have certain cleaning requirements, and the wrong cleaning products can harm the lens coating.


Bore Lapping

-JB Bore Paste

I use this for cleaning really fouled barrels or for lapping bores.


Anti Lockers/Antiseize

-Permatex Antiseize Lubricant

Can be purchased at any Auto Parts Store

I use this for Muzzle Loader Breach Plugs and Nipples. It keeps them from locking up in the gun.


Thread Lockers

-Rocksett

Used for Muzzle Devices/Flash Hiders/Compensators

http://www.amazon.com/Flexbar-Rocksett-2-OZ/dp/B001C1D800

-Loctite Red #271

Used for permanent applications.

-Loctite Blue #242

For screws that will be removed to various purposes/maintenance.

-Loctite Green #620

I use this for Sights and any parts that need a surface bond

-Finger Nail Polish (Preferably Clear)

Buy pretty much at any Pharmacy or Walmart

I use this for Bolt Action Trigger Adjustment Screws. Its locks them down but isn’t too strong to keep from future adjustment.

(Breakdown of Loctite)
222 - Purple - Low strength threadlocker, designed for percision metal fasteners under 3/4". Protect threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure Speed 20 min. Full 24 hrs.

243 - Blue - Medium strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Cures reliably even on stainless steel. Tolerant of oil and other contamination. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Parts can be disassembled with hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 15 min. Full 24 hrs.

262 - Red - Permanent strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Designed for extreem enviromental/chemical conditions. Especially useful for holding tight Grade 5 and 8 fasteners. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Localized heating and hand tools required for disassembly. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 30 min. Full 24 hrs.

270 - Green - High strength threadlocker for fasteners up to 3/4". Secures long studs and bolts. Intended for parts that do not require disassembly. Cures fast and reliably on most metal surfaces. Seals threads against industrial fluids. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 15 min. Full 24 hrs.

272 - Red - Hi-temp/hi-strength formula. Suited for temperatures up to 450 degrees F. Fast cure on most surfaces including "as received" fasteners. Recommended for bolts up to 1 1/2" in diameter. Heat and hand tools required for disassemgly. Temp range -65 to 450 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.

277 - Red - High strength for locking fasteners up to 1 1/2". Prevents fasteners from loosening due to shock, heat or vibration (Good for Harley-Davidson parts). Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Removable with heat and hand tools. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 60 min. Full 24 hrs.

290 - Green - Medium strength threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2". Penetrates threads by capillary action: simplifies preventive maintenance. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Used to seal welds and porous metal parts. Protects threads from rust and corrosion. Temp range -65 to 300 degrees F. Cure speed 10 min. Full 24 hrs.

Steel Touchup (Not Stainless)

-Brownells 44/40

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1112/Product/FORMULA_44_40_reg__INSTANT_GUN_BLUE

or

-Oxphoblue

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_


Aluminum Touchup

-Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4941/Product/ALUMINUM_BLACK


Aluminum Constructed Flashlight and Optical Gun Sights Thread Lube

-NyoGel #760

http://www.lighthound.com/NyoGel-760G-50-gram-tube_p_1345.html



Chad Albrecht (Gunsmith)

 

[Demoneyes86]

Thanks for the info clandestine. You have any experience with lucas gun oil? That is what i have been using and seems to hold up quite well. Figured i would ask.

 

[clandestine]

Thanks for the info clandestine. You have any experience with lucas gun oil? That is what i have been using and seems to hold up quite well. Figured i would ask.

I have never used that brand. Ill have to get some and try it out. IM always looking for a better product, but Im always conscious of price for what you get.

For example: If a certain gun oil costs 3x as much as Syn Motor Oil but only lasts about 5% longer on my recipriocating parts then its not a marked improvement in relation to cost IMO. If it lasts 50% longer or lubes/displaces fouling better then it HAS to tbe considered.

Im messing with frog lube for the second time now because people are telling me its better than what I use/recomend. If it is, Ill admit so.

 

[OnTarget]

Rifles aside, do you use the SYN motor oil externally on pistols/revolvers to prevent rust?
If not, then what is better for handguns (externally)?