I'm atempting to install the ATI mount kit? Anyone here do it already?

[crxtech]

I just bought the ATI scope mount kit. I got the one that has to be drilled and taped to the receiver. Has anyone on here done this install already and have any pointers for me? I found this site which seem helpful since the included instructions are very vague.

My biggest concern is how do you know if the mount is clamped on perfectly level and straight, before you drill holes in your receiver?!

Also, the link I posted above shows the front and rear sites being removed from a M44. Are the sites on a 91/30 removable? I don't see how they would be. I can't see any pins or anything?

 

[Jaybeez]

If the m44 is anything like the mauser, the sights are soldered on.

 

[240 towles]

use the template provided by ATI with the scope mount. Minor offset can be corrected by adjusting the scope. I had to dremal off my rear iron sight for the M44 because I used a full rail in conjunction with the ATI scope mount. But it you use high rise scope rings, you should be able to keep iron sights. Look up "Mosin nagant of the future" in the MD forum search, I wrote down alot of the work. Hope it helps.

 

[240 towles]

If the m44 is anything like the mauser, the sights are soldered on.

My M44 had the rear sight held on by a wraparound band. A dremal cut and a screwdriver to pry it off should work.

 

[crxtech]

I've been trying to install this mount for 2 weeks now. So far all I have done is scratch the receiver! I don't know how you are expected to drill though it! I've tred two friends drill presses, since I don't have one.

 

[E.Shell]

You may need a carbide drill if the work is surface hardened.

When drilling holes in hard steel, it is quite easy to ruin the drill, and then all it does is spin on the work piece and I suspect this is what happened. If the drill is spun too fast and/or without enough feed pressure, the cutting edges burn.

A new drill is probably needed at this point. You will have to spin the drill very slowly and apply a good bit of feed pressure. Clamp the work firmly, bring the drill press speed down to it's slowest setting and try that. If you still have problems, PM me and maybe we can do it on my mill one evening next week.

 

[240 towles]

I did mine with a an adjustable speed cordless drill and the ATI supplied bit and tap.

 

[crxtech]

You may need a carbide drill if the work is surface hardened.

When drilling holes in hard steel, it is quite easy to ruin the drill, and then all it does is spin on the work piece and I suspect this is what happened. If the drill is spun too fast and/or without enough feed pressure, the cutting edges burn.

A new drill is probably needed at this point. You will have to spin the drill very slowly and apply a good bit of feed pressure. Clamp the work firmly, bring the drill press speed down to it's slowest setting and try that. If you still have problems, PM me and maybe we can do it on my mill one evening next week.

I was using a friends drill press and it is one of those really old ones that is belt driven, and you put the belts on various size pulleys to adjust the speed. I had it on the slowest speed, but that honestly still seemed kind of fast...

Last time I tried to drill the holes in the receiver, the bit bent and started a hole of center... Its not a deep hole at all, just enough that the bit slips into it each time try to drill. I hope I haven't made it impossible to install the mount now.

Here is a pic of what I did:

Any tips on how I can fix this would be greatly appreciated.

 

[240 towles]

First, look at the instructions and find out what size drill bit they supplied with the mount. Go to lowes and buy that same size drill bit [make sure it is a bit for use on metals] This is important because your tap that is supplied is only good for that size bit. As long as your hole in the picture is in the right place [ check it with the supplied template], then you can just use the new bit to slowly drill through the old hole. I suggest using a cordless drill with adjustable speed. It helps to have the stripped rifle in a vise. After carefully drilling both holes, slowly run the tap through the holes, remember that you need to back the tap out slowly to avoid damaging the new threads. Drilling into a reciever needs to be done carefully. If you take your time, you can do it. But if it seems like it's too much for you, I'm sure there is a gunsmith who could do it for you.

 

[wilcam47]

First, look at the instructions and find out what size drill bit they supplied with the mount. Go to lowes and buy that same size drill bit [make sure it is a bit for use on metals] This is important because your tap that is supplied is only good for that size bit. As long as your hole in the picture is in the right place [ check it with the supplied template], then you can just use the new bit to slowly drill through the old hole. I suggest using a cordless drill with adjustable speed. It helps to have the stripped rifle in a vise. After carefully drilling both holes, slowly run the tap through the holes, remember that you need to back the tap out slowly to avoid damaging the new threads. Drilling into a reciever needs to be done carefully. If you take your time, you can do it. But if it seems like it's too much for you, I'm sure there is a gunsmith who could do it for you.

im thinking bout getting this one....any inputs? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=341035

 

[240 towles]

im thinking bout getting this one....any inputs? http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=341035

If you plan to do this type of work often, then it would be a good buy, but if you are just mounting an ATI scope mount, then you just need the supplied bit, tap, and template, and I would suggest using a table vise, and a cordless adjustable speed drill. Remember, slow is smooth and smooth is fast.