Have you bought a C&R gun with problems?

[Threeband]

I once got a CZ82 that had the firing pin stuck solid in the forward position, protruding from the breech face. If anyone had tried to fire it, it would have gone full auto as soon as the first round was chambered.

Good reason to only load a single round first time out with an unknown semi auto.

Anyway, it was an easy fix. I had to tap the firing pin out because it was frozen in place by solidified crud. But then a gentle chasing of the firing pin hole with a miniature round file and all was well.

 

[Troublesbrewin]

I once got a CZ82 that had the firing pin stuck solid in the forward position, protruding from the breech face. If anyone had tried to fire it, it would have gone full auto as soon as the first round was chambered.

Good reason to only load a single round first time out with an unknown semi auto.

Anyway, it was an easy fix. I had to tap the firing pin out because it was frozen in place by solidified crud. But then a gentle chasing of the firing pin hole with a miniature round file and all was well.

That’s interesting, I have one that let loose two rounds, seemingly full auto. It only happened once - at the end of a mag full. It has never reoccurred. I will check that firing pin though, because I haven’t trusted that gun since that day, I only load 5 rounds at a time for most of my range guns. It slows my pace and forces me to concentrate more effectively.

 

[Threeband]

On mine, the firing pin was effectively glued in place, like a submachine gun with a fixed firing pin. There was just a lot of dried crud holding it. I never had a problem with it after that.

 

[Fushigi Ojisan]

I’m resurrecting an ancient dead thread - because I’m running into tons of issues lately.

First a recent H&R - 929 I think. Bought it about a month ago, got to the range and every third round or so went bang! Took off the grips when I got home and sure ‘nough bits of plastic fell out....Checked here and YouTube and found the issue being the main spring hammer terminal end, plastic from the 70’s disintegrating. Bought a metal replacement at gunpartscorp.com - works pretty well now.

I took two old Hi Standard Model B semi auto’s that same day....both had extractor issues. Back to the bench, I just cleaned them up real good. Range test is on the schedule.

Now I have another H&R this one is a .32 S&W model 732 I expect the same main spring issue on this one. I also have another Hi Standard Model B on the way. I guess I’m a glutton for punishment.

When I bought the H&R main spring I also got some trigger/sear springs for old Italian black powder revolvers - got those fixed up too, these were inherited when my brother passed a year and a half ago. I’m just getting to them now- I’ll give an update once I get them out to the range.

I’m a sucker for “gunsmith specials” love getting C&R pistols for about $100.00

Gunbroker has auctions from the "Gunbusters" franchisees--basically they destroy the gun and sell all the take-off parts. They had a couple 929 kits this week.



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[coinboy]

I have a Romanian tokarev where the slide stays back every 3-4 shots. I have put in new wolf springs and tried numerous magazines and different ammo but no matter what it still does it. Oh well for $219 it isn't the end of the world.

I believe it's the aftermarket safety they have to put in.

Not 100% but I think that's what it is.

My slide stays shut and won't open.

 

[coinboy]

So...

I've only bought one problem gun.

It was a cheap M44 back in the day from AIM. They said it was a parts gun an unfirable. Looks like all the parts are there. Never shot it or checked the headspacing. Had some original stock carving that I thought was cool.

As for the others...

Bought an H&R 929 and the mainspring broke after the second shot. Still can't believe they made the head with plastic. Replaced it a metal head version from Numrich for cheap. Fires great now.

Bought a Tokorev and the slide gets stuck shut. Think it's because of the aftermarket safety they had to install.

Was at the range one day with my CZ-82, then all of the sudden I get hit in the chest with what looks like the firing pin. Wasn't sure if anything else was missing. Then I got home and found out the firing pin stop and the spring were missing. Was lucky enough to order a spare before they ran out. Good thing I didn't lose the firing pin because I've never seen one of them for sale. Never understood why they put the firing pin stop downward so if it fails, it falls out. Probably my only complaint with the gun other than a little bit of slop in the mag release that I'm too lazy to fix.

 

[GuitarmanNick]

Can't say that any have been problem guns, just that some needed some attention to the details ignored during a hasty manufacturing process.

I enjoy making broken things work again or just tuning to improve performance.

My Star Model B performs very well, but every magazine needed the feed lips opened up before they would feed 9mm rounds smoothly. Hated to do it, but a file was required to remove material and then sanding to smooth the surfaces. Just got another one last week and it required the same work. Rounds were nose-diving. All new magazine springs(1911, .38 super from Wolff) have made them reliable, too. Seems like the mags are designed to feed a longer cartridge and need a spacer. Without that, trimming the feed lips about .020" corrected the nose-diving.

Both M-57s came with the Glock style triggers that were poorly made and a magazine safety which is easy to disable without damaging it by wedging something between it, and the frame. A small piece of plastic tie-wrap works perfectly and stays in place. The triggers have been replaced with originals and the only safety on them now, is the half-cocked position.

The M-44 originally shot patterns instead of groups regardless of the ammunition used. The bolt was very difficult to open after firing, but it had a great trigger so I decided to spend some time and effort to make it perform more like a better made weapon. The bolt has been worked to smooth the action when opening after firing and the barrel channel has been lined with adhesive cork strips to reduce barrel harmonic vibration. This has made it surprisingly accurate, especially with my handloads.

 

[Fushigi Ojisan]

Gunbroker has auctions from the "Gunbusters" franchisees--basically they destroy the gun and sell all the take-off parts. They had a couple 929 kits this week.



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To update: This week (Auctions ending 22 October) there are *three* H&R 929 "parts kits" listed by Gunbusters, all reasonable so far. Usually people bid by the weekend.

Also looping it back to this thread: I once picked up something missing parts because I happened to have a Gunbusters parts kit with almost all the ones I needed (was missing a small spring)

 

[smdub]

I've repaired a barrel bushing for a Star B before. (locking tab was gone.)

I have a CZ52 w/ a cracked barrel and slide. It broke the first mag I ran through. I don't think the slide was fully cracked when I cleaned it and inspected but there was very likely a crack in a barrel locking lug already. First couple shots went fine, then it started firing lower and lower, then by about the sixth round(?) the slide didn't go fully back into battery. Thats the problem buying at auction. I can reweld the slide but still need to buy another barrel. I might cerakote it or something so no one ever tries to pass it off as original down the road (though I doubt the weld would blue the same anyway.)

 

[BFMIN]

Yeah a No5 Mk1 Jungle Carbine.
It had been refinished, (quite well with nice bluing) but the stock had been hogged out to "glass Bed" it & The bayonet lug ground off. It was not restorable.
But the price was right & I wanted a sporter Lee-Enfield.
I replaced the ruined wood with an aftermarket (old style) set of wood, & found a 5-round (koff Koff mutters 7) Japanese-made Santa Fe magazine that was semi flush & added a ND/NT "Instamount low profile" mount & a decent 3~9X 40 Swift scope to it. My "Goobermint Model Sporter" was born

 

[Atlasarmory]

Recently acquired a Steyr hahn that I needed to fabricate the spring retainer plug as it was missing. Also had to rebuild the locking we wedge the lip was broken off. And had to adjust the spring that lifts the disconnect to lift the transfer bar.

 

[Troublesbrewin]

Gunbroker has auctions from the "Gunbusters" franchisees--basically they destroy the gun and sell all the take-off parts. They had a couple 929 kits this week.



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Thanks for the heads up on this Gunbroker seller, I’ll be searching these guys every C&R I buy from here on out. It looks like it’s a franchise group - each an independent entity.

 

[Fushigi Ojisan]

Yes, they are a franchise, but they all seem to have standardized on doing their auctions on Sunday evening.

I've seen some bids I thought were crazy, and others that were bargains, depending on what you are looking for.

There is a commercial site, everygunpart.com, but I found they are not particularly good deals unless they are having a sale.

 

[Doco Overboard]

Plenty of them.
For parts.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Gunbroker has auctions from the "Gunbusters" franchisees--basically they destroy the gun and sell all the take-off parts. They had a couple 929 kits this week.

That's harsh semantics .

Just like cars , some guns are worth more as spare parts than as a whole . Particularly if it has an obvious problem or missing part .

For lots of less expensive parts guns , the transfer fees and shipping as a Firearm, for the serialized frame are a significant % of it's value .

 

[somd_mustangs]

These gun parts places that sell complete kits often get them from guns that otherwise would be destroyed (police confiscations etc) so at least they're saving some. Hence no frame but all the rest from the gun is sold.