Thank you. When I was dry fitting it, there was no washer in the stock, or anywhere else...I will remedy that and get the markings on the stock of the rub points. Yes, that handguard is a beauty for sure....I doubt I will be chasing a matching set. I just want to get this one back to wood.Looks good.
In order to fit the butt stock to the socket, smoke the inside of the socket with candle black real well, insert the stock tenon and remove the blackened wood with a rasp, file or chisle.
Check to see if inside the buttstock that there is a flat steel washer that needs to be placed, then, a lock washer or sprung thackry washer placed on the bolt. There should be a very small gap at the face of the stock exterior to where it meets the socket at the exterior edges.
The bolt should be greased slightly and it needs tightened as much as you can get it.
When fitting, driving the stock from the rear with a large rubber mallet is helpful.
The socket is tapered which is an important point and there will be ledge and opposing surface inside the socket and on the wood tenon that need to be tightly fit.
If everything goes right, the face of the tenon should bear evenly on the flat opposing surface of the socket with a small gap around the exterior as mentioned earlier. There are also two forms for how the lug on the tenon interacts with the socket. Year of manufacturing, maker and component source is what dictates what type of shoulder is required for fitting up.
A loose buttstock will cause lateral dispersion and is a critical accuracy characteristic/ element for the LE system.
It’s also the strongest way to fasten a buttstock to a rifle by using the spoke and hub wagon wheel method.
At the factory they were driven in place through the use of machinery so tightness is the word and having a good screw driver with a broad blade and that is long enough to go through the stock.
How about that finish on the upper handguard?
Nice huh? Too bad they all don’t look like that but plenty rifles and parts still out there to work with yet.
Also looks like your trigger guard rear screw lines right up. A rifle to where that doesn’t happen is not stocked up correctly or as good as it could be. Not often does it always go like that so the timber finish is your compromise.
Good stuff. Thank you. I have some washers, a drill press and a couple off grinding options. With the rain tomorrow, I have a time occupied....I have the barrel bands in the online shopping cart...bands from one site...screws from another...hard to find a complete set that they aren't asking triple the cost...but, it's what it is.Sometimes that flat washer is set into the stock.
Drop a screwdriver in there and rattle it around to see if you can hear it.
Sometimes you can see it if its still brite with a good lite.
Any flat washer will do but its an oddball diameter so you have to grind one.
An ordinary washer will work to for the lock washer too but you have to drill one to fit the diameter of the stock bolt and hole in the stock more than likely.
Savage and any No 4 parts used to be easy to source but the last few years things are beginning to tighten up. Everything for these old guns as a matter of fact it's not what is used to be for sure.Good stuff. Thank you. I have some washers, a drill press and a couple off grinding options. With the rain tomorrow, I have a time occupied....I have the barrel bands in the online shopping cart...bands from one site...screws from another...hard to find a complete set that they aren't asking triple the cost...but, it's what it is.
Thank you. Whether it is blasphemous or not, I quickly re-tapped the barrel band to 10-24 (Because they are on hand and plentiful) and ordered a rear sight from numritch. I'm ready for assembly!!!!Going by memory here but with the front handguard removed it should just fit over.
It may have a screw that tensions the sight blade that’s easy enough to loosen which will allow it slide clear.
Otherwise if it’s the press fit type and clearance is not enough you can drift it right off.