Dire need of some help with Lee progressive

[ARenthusiast]

Just bought a Lee 1000 progressive and the thing is boggling my mind. I've never reloaded before and have no idea what I'm doing. Is there someone close to NAS Pax River that can help me get started? Just need someone to point me in the right direction. I can compensate you for your time with factory ammo or all sorts of brass that i have been gathering over the past 6 months.

 

[lx1x]

dont have that loader.. but..

what kind of issue you having?

or you can pm bradmac82

 

[Nanook]

Not to sound like a dick, but...
First things first: put down the reloader and back away slowly. Read the reloading manuals/books two or three times to get a clue.

Youtube is your friend. Lots and lots of how-to videos on there to prevent you from getting hurt or dead.

 

[GNLaFrance]

Lee Pro 1000 Help Videos

 

[j8064]

I wish I could add to what's been said, but they are spot on. Read, watch and learn before you ever take a round you built and light it off at the range.

Progressive presses are more complicated than single stage presses. That's the number 1 reason I recommend a single stage press for a beginning reloader. Learning one step at a time - and what that step does - is basic and critical.

 

[GNLaFrance]

I wish I could add to what's been said, but they are spot on. Read, watch and learn before you ever take a round you built and light it off at the range.

Progressive presses are more complicated than single stage presses. That's the number 1 reason I recommend a single stage press for a beginning reloader. Learning one step at a time - and what that step does - is basic and critical.

Word. I got a Lee Classic Cast Turret because it can be used as a single stage as well as a turret press. I can set it up to do only one operation such as depriming, then run it through priming, flaring/charging, seating, and crimping with the auto-indexing feature.

 

[Bigrascal]

Check out

www.fsreloading.com

middle tab "How To Videos"

good luck

 

[hodgepodge]

Check out this guy's Lee 1000 videos.

http://www.youtube.com/user/sfliberal?feature=results_main

 

[ARenthusiast]

Thanks for the help guys. I definitely do not plan on shooting any of the ammo until I'm 110% sure I'm doing it right. I have plenty of factory ammo to hold me off for the next month or so. so I'm just going to take my time and get it right and then take some more time and perfect the process before I actually reload ammo that I'm going to use. Just figured I could shorten the learning curve with some one on one help

 

[ARenthusiast]

I've done quite a bit of reaserch and understand the process in theory but when it comes to adjusting for the powder charge and such, I have no idea where to begin or what to actually adjust. The vids are really helping so far.

 

[Nanook]

Lee manufacturing has tried to engineer out the stupid as much as possible. If you don't have good attention to detail, you can still screw it up spectacularly. This is why smart folks keep books on what they did and used, then the results when they put it through a chronograph.

On that setup you swap out discs for the powder measure. Each one has a bunch of holes, all different volumes. They know from LOTS of testing what the weight (gr) per volume (cc) is supposed to be AT THE TIME OF PUBLISHING for almost all the powders - this can change if they change their recipe a little. For smaller rifles like the .223 you will want to get the double disk kit - but check your books.

Once it is all set up and you are at that stage, throw a powder charge. Then dump it back into the hopper. Repeat a lot, maybe 10 times for a brand new unit or when you detail clean it. This allows all the moving parts to be coated with miniature powder bits (sort of like graphite lube) and enables accurate and REPEATABLE measurements. Throw another charge and weigh it. The volume of that powder in the selected hole should match up the weight specified. Verify it a few more times, then finish loading the case up. Every 10 rounds or so, pull it out and verify the weight again. After a 100, if the quantity of the powder didn't change, you can rock and roll with a fair degree of certainty that it's going to be okay. Pull a random sample and weigh it just for giggles every now and then.

You are responsible for your loads - which is why I rarely post any load info and when I do, I reference the source. Nothing that any of us say on here is or should be considered legal advice. Don't screw this reloading stuff up and it'll be okay!

 

[Nanook]

One more thing - since it is a progressive, only have one case in there at a time. Yes, it has multiple holes. No, you probably aren't ready to watch all the holes at the same time as it works.

Run a couple hundred rounds through, one at a time. Then if you are comfortable with the process run it full bore. Only one case on the plate at a time will still be faster than the guys with the single stage because you won't have to change dies to do each step.

 

[BradMacc82]

I'm not a guru by any means, but I can help you figure it out if you need - I started with a Pro1000 myself, been there myself.

I'm about 25/30 minutes from PAX NAS.

 

[DocAitch]

Pro 1000

This is a tough machine to learn on. I started with one 13 years ago, gave up on it, moved on and then bought another a couple of months ago because I thought I was ready for it.
The problem is the primer system. It requires more attention than I can give it . In one batch I had 13% squibs(no powder) because when the primer mechanism would hang up, I would short stroke it and fail to charge my case(and I knew that this was a major problem with this machine)
The solution(used by many other loaders who use this machine) is to size, decap and prime your cases in a separate operation. (You can do this on the Pro 1000 by using the decapper die on a separate tool head, or you can use a separate press). (Alternatively, you could arrange to look into each case to ascertain your powder level each time).
Using a separate operation to size,decap and prime allows you to use a factory crimp die in your 3rd position of the final die head.
Lee also sells an adjustable charge bar that allows you to fine tune your powder charge (if you are loading pistol cases). If, as your name implies, you are a rifle shooter, then you probably have to use the discs.
BradMacc82 sounds like he can help you.
Good luck,
DocAitch

 

[BradMacc82]

Agreed, it's not THE easiest press to cut your teeth on, but if nothing else I can pass on some hard learned lessons.




We'll discuss it later on in person, get your stuff in and we'll go from there.

 

[LGood48]

I've done quite a bit of reaserch and understand the process in theory but when it comes to adjusting for the powder charge and such, I have no idea where to begin or what to actually adjust. The vids are really helping so far.

This is a tough machine to learn on. I started with one 13 years ago, gave up on it, moved on and then bought another a couple of months ago because I thought I was ready for it.
The problem is the primer system. It requires more attention than I can give it . In one batch I had 13% squibs(no powder) because when the primer mechanism would hang up, I would short stroke it and fail to charge my case(and I knew that this was a major problem with this machine)
The solution(used by many other loaders who use this machine) is to size, decap and prime your cases in a separate operation. (You can do this on the Pro 1000 by using the decapper die on a separate tool head, or you can use a separate press). (Alternatively, you could arrange to look into each case to ascertain your powder level each time).
Using a separate operation to size,decap and prime allows you to use a factory crimp die in your 3rd position of the final die head.
Lee also sells an adjustable charge bar that allows you to fine tune your powder charge (if you are loading pistol cases). If, as your name implies, you are a rifle shooter, then you probably have to use the discs.
BradMacc82 sounds like he can help you.
Good luck,
DocAitch

Like Doc says, get the adjustable charge bar for the powder (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/150005/lee-auto-disk-adjustable-powder-charge-bar). I use one on my Lee turret press and it is extremely accurate and holds the charge very steady through hundreds of rounds.

Good luck!

 

[BradMacc82]

Took a few hours today to walk him thru the system and show him some of the particulars for the Pro1000.

Should be good to go for the particular caliber he's doing right now.

 

[HappyCamper]

How close is the 1000 to the Loadmaster?

 

[GNLaFrance]

How close is the 1000 to the Loadmaster?

Lee Precision, Inc. - Progressive Presses

 

[ARenthusiast]

Brad did an excellent job helping me out. Can't thank him enough