CZ-82 Project

[54rndball]

As a purist i pause before i say this, but that looks great! CZ-82's have the worst stock finish. I dont know what they were thinking when they used that enamel/paint. Given the amount of 82's out there, I think it looks great.

I have an Inglis Browning Hi-Power, WW2 era manufacture. It also had the black paint finish and ugly as all hell. I had it parkerized and know it destroyed any value it had as a original. But I wanted a good shootable gun without the ugly black paint. I haven't decided whether to do anything with my CZ82s. They are not big money collectables anyway.

 

[TexasBob]

I have an Inglis Browning Hi-Power, WW2 era manufacture. It also had the black paint finish and ugly as all hell. I had it parkerized and know it destroyed any value it had as a original. But I wanted a good shootable gun without the ugly black paint. I haven't decided whether to do anything with my CZ82s. They are not big money collectables anyway.

I really like how the CZ-82 feels in my hands its built solid with some weight to it. They are great shooter that doesn't cost a lot . Ammo is still a good value 50/$16-$20 and still fairly easy to get.

I'll never bad mouth anyone who collects guns, cars, stamps or coins it your thing. I’m not concerned with the intrinsic resale value refinishing has on a handgun. I do it for my personal likes and dislikes. Then I buy a firearm it’s for me to enjoy and someday perhaps pass to my son. I’m all for museums that preserver firearms so everyone can see and enjoy how they were in the past.

Looking to make a few bucks off anything I buy isn't my motivation you will make more money with Ammo, Gold or Silver, but it's good to have a hobby.

I buy them clean them make it look good when it goes bang. That how I like to spent my time on this earth.

Enjoy life today for tomorrow it will be gone. .
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[TexasBob]

Those are beautiful Bob. What years are they?

88 and 89

 

[TexasBob]

Hey Gfacter
I wanted to let you know I did a post the other day named CZ-82 Project not knowing you had done the same thing back in Feb 2009.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=15474

I did a project to refinished a CZ-82 almost the same way you did, had trouble with the Slide lock spring same as you did, ordered a replacement from Norm down in Florida same as you did and also used the same reference sailorcurt.com same as you did in helping to disassemble and reassemble the CZ-82. I did all this without knowing you get the same thing back in 2009. I did use different grips mine came from Grips4U.
Gives meaning to the idea those who don’t learn from the pass are cursed to repeat the same mistakes in the future.

I have to ask how does has your CZ-82 look after 5 years ?
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[Gfacter]

Here is my CZ 5 years later, I just pulled the gun form the safe and took the shot.

It's held up very well for cold blue, as a number of other guns I cold blued

 

[TexasBob]

Here is my CZ 5 years later, I just pulled the gun form the safe and took the shot.

It's held up very well for cold blue, as a number of other guns I cold blued

Man it does look great, I hope my CZ-82 looks as good in 5 years, thanks for Sharing. Last weekend I showed my son the two I just completed now he wants one. I told him do the paper work and I'll refinish it when he gets it. Way he does things it will a couple years before I'll see it.

 

[amoebicmagician]

just a couple pieces of advice for you guys:

Number one is that after a cold blue, or any blue for that matter, it's a good idea to use Ballistol for the oil treatment/metal conditioning.

Not only will it de-activate the remaining bluing compound due to it's alkaline nature, but ballistol sticks to blued metal better than any other oil I've ever used- to the point that without heating the metal and then using a degreaser it will keep the metal from etching if you decide to parkerize later. Usually after I finish bluing if it's a hot blue I will apply the ballistol after a quick wipe off and preliminary de-activation while the metal is still hot, if it's a cold blue or touch up, I will heat the metal with a hair dryer and then apply the ballistol. I find that the heat opens the pores of the metal, and the ballistol is nearly impossible to remove once the metal cools.

Also, I've found that even SEVERELY worn extractors on CZ-82s will not need to be replaced. This is because the cz-82 is a blowback firearm, with no locking mechanism other than the weight of the slide and the strength of the recoil spring. Just like a MAC-10 will function and eject just fine without an extractor, so will the CZ-82 as long as the ejector is still in good shape, which it should be barring outrageous use, since it's a 1/8th inch thick rectangular piece of hardened steel. Seriously, the CZ-82s ejector, like most of the gun, is built like a tank.

I've literally left the entire extractor, pin and all, out of the gun and it has functioned fine. The only time I've had failures to extract was with polish surplus steel cased ammunition bought from J&G sales. That said an extractor and spring, as well as all other spare parts are on sale through CZUSA's website, and they're relatively cheap.

If it'll give you peace of mind, go nuts.

 

[amoebicmagician]

88 and 89

I have a couple of later model ones 88-92

The jewels are my two earlier models from 84 and 85

They've got angled mag releases that are much nicer and easier to use than the later models, as well as a rivet instead of a roll pin securing the trigger assembly in place.

I've got to wonder why they ever changed to the newer iterations- it can't be that much cheaper.

 

[TexasBob]

Thanks for the ballistol suggestion I'll have to check it out. Not sure why they started using the roll pin for the Trigger release and Slide stop spring might have been a issue with the pin coming out. The roll pin makes assembly a bit harder.

I did note the older mags had a thicker metal base plate I would like get one to see which works the best.

With all this SB281 BS after 1 Oct I think I will stick to the C&R firearms for the foreseeable future.

Looking at the P-64, Tokarev or one makarov pistols as my next project, if I ever get some money.
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[Machodoc]

I have an Inglis Browning Hi-Power, WW2 era manufacture. It also had the black paint finish and ugly as all hell. I had it parkerized and know it destroyed any value it had as a original. But I wanted a good shootable gun without the ugly black paint. I haven't decided whether to do anything with my CZ82s. They are not big money collectables anyway.

The coating flaking off a CZ-82 is a big problem, but it also means that if you have one with excellent finish, you can make it a safe queen and it will probably increase in value because it has the original finish in excellent condition.

I don't normally do that with any of my firearms, but I've got more than one CZ-82 to shoot ... so ....

But if you do have a CZ-82 with leprosy, you can Cerakote it with a color that's nearly an exact match for the original, and it should stay on the gun a lot longer.

As always, it's your gun and you can do with it as you want. I just post these things so that someone who is otherwise not knowledgeable enough to make an informed decision doesn't see something here and do something that they later regret.

 

[Daddyursus]

This is a question for anyone that has the wooden grips. I've noted that some have used linseed or tung oil to seal. I used tru-oil on one set and about to coat another set with tung. So have others just done the exterior side, or have you also sealed the underside? Thanks for any comments

 

[sbmike]

Very nice! Here's my "altered" CZ. I have more than one and I took the one in the worst condition, had it Cerakoted at Bollinger's and waited an eternity to get a pair of grips from Marschal's but in the end, I got a gun that is just plain beautiful to my eyes.

 

[Daddyursus]

I am waiting to see how my guns from Bollinger's comeout. All that I've seen including your's sbmike look fantasic

 

[TexasBob]

[FONT=&quot]Sorry to offend collectors of historic firearms but you got to love the way a handgun looks that has been refinished and given some nice furniture. Gives me a woody.
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[TexasBob]

This is a question for anyone that has the wooden grips. I've noted that some have used linseed or tung oil to seal. I used tru-oil on one set and about to coat another set with tung. So have others just done the exterior side, or have you also sealed the underside? Thanks for any comments

The main reason I apply oil or anything else to the inside and outside of grips is so the wood does not dry on one side and have oil on the other. I use to work with wood and made furniture and plaques if you only finish the outside of the piece the wood would dry out warp and crack. Oiling keeps the wood from drying out and cracking. Over time handling the grips darkens the finish as does exposure to sunlight.
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[Seagrave1963]

Sbmike - that is a fine lookin' 82!

 

[Sunir]

I have to replace the slide stop spring on my CZ82, from the looks of it a delicate and not easy job ugh! Man some of you guys have awesome looking CZ82s I really like the wooden grips, reminds me of a pair of nice 1911 grips! Mine CZ82 is original finish and in really excellent shape, otherwise I would consider the refinish route for sure if it were heavily flaked.