Current crop of P1/P38s

[Jimbob2.0]

Thinking of picking two up? Of the current crop who (JG, Aim, Atlantic) have the best? Prices seem all about the same. Any idea where these came from?

 

[John from MD]

At this stage in the game, they are probably all parts guns. You would do better to save your pennies and look for a collector selling his collection or one of the distributors that specializes in C&R guns.

 

[somd_mustangs]

There was a recent batch of imports that weren't parts guns, I forget who imported them but they added an "E" suffix to the serial number. Several distributors got ahold of them (I believe Atlantic had some). They are all pretty much the same but condition varies. But after all is said and done I'd hit Gunpoker and look around (assume you're talking about the post-war P1/P38).

 

[somd_mustangs]

"parts guns" aren't necessarily bad... for instance ones that have been overhauled ("Wx.xx" marks etc) typically have good parts like the reinforced slide and forged locking block. The hex pin is a red herring, it was added to reduced the wear on the frame from the steel lock block, NOT to strengthen it (it in fact weakens the frame by removing material at a critical point). Unless you'r going to shoot the poop out of it, the pin is not needed.

If I was building a shooter, I would use the "fat slide" and forged lock block (and on a steel WW2 frame and barrel, but those WW2 parts are very expensive now).

 

[John from MD]

"parts guns" aren't necessarily bad... for instance ones that have been overhauled ("Wx.xx" marks etc) typically have good parts like the reinforced slide and forged locking block. The hex pin is a red herring, it was added to reduced the wear on the frame from the steel lock block, NOT to strengthen it (it in fact weakens the frame by removing material at a critical point). Unless you'r going to shoot the poop out of it, the pin is not needed.

If I was building a shooter, I would use the "fat slide" and forged lock block (and on a steel WW2 frame and barrel, but those WW2 parts are very expensive now).

View attachment 447363 View attachment 447362

True, if you are knowledgeable of what is critical and what is not. A new collector without such knowledge can wind up with a boat anchor.

 

[somd_mustangs]

Fortunately a P.38 is pretty simple, the biggest issue is getting the decocker/safety to work right. As long as the frame and slide aren't cracked and the barrel is good, it's fairly easy to fix. Not like a 1911 that needs a lot of gentle caressing LOL. But P1/P38 that have gone through overhaul are just as good if not better than original.

Other than that (rework markings) I don't know how you'd determine a post-war P.38 was a parts gun other than being smart enough to know a P1 slide wouldn't be on a frame with an early serial number, or recognize the different types of barrel liners and when they were used. Sometimes, but not always, the major components will be numbered to the frame with the last 3 (sometimes 4) digits. Sometimes though you can tell just by looking at it that it's a POS whether it matches or not One thing to look for is a good fit of the slide and frame at the back, and the barrel, frame, and slide at the front (nice even "face"). When they left the factory (or overhaul) those lines fit well. If they don't, it's good sign that something's worn out (barrel latch maybe) or has been monkeyed with.

The guns that are being imported are true surplus and overhauls. The only parts pistols I see out there are the WW2 mix-masters that someone has pieced together, which can be determined several ways. Any given one may be good or not regardless of origin; best bet is buying from a good dealer that will do returns. With the surplus distributors, it's luck of the draw usually. I think Atlantic was showing the exact pistol you'd get though. The ones I saw all looked good to me.

Simpson has been listing a nice batch of P38's but they sell almost instantly.