Conversion Kit

[august1410]

I've been toying around with the idea of getting a conversion kit for my 1911, instead of looking for another gun altogether. I like the 1911, but want to possibly experiment with another caliber, such as .460 Rowland.

I already handload, so working up a .460 Rowland load would not be too much of a stretch, and there is brass available that is stamped .460 Rowland.

At this moment, it's only a thought. I like the idea of a load that is not the most common. Clark Custom Guns offers a "drop in" kit for $295, with all the parts/compensated barrel. ( http://clarkcustomguns.com/rowland.htm#gunlist )

If I don't think I can do it myself (I think I should be able to), Clark will do it for free ($20 S&H).


Has anyone else gone this route? Suggestions?

 

[august1410]

Upon further reading, it looks as if Clark has discontinued the Commander length kits.

Still looking for input, though.

 

[BUFF7MM]

Come on Joe, everyone needs more than 1 1911.

 

[alucard0822]

I built one a few years ago out of a Kimber. Replaced and fitted basically everything but the frame, slide, and beavertail after massive frustration sending it back twice to Kimber for jamming. I didn't use the drop-in kit, they will send it however you want it, I had a chambered, but unfitted barrel, oversized bushing, matt blued comp to match the slide finish, and their 2 peice rod and spring kit, also using a square pin stop(old trick for 1911s in 10mm), heavier pin and hammer springs, and 20# recoil spring. Fitted the barrel and bushing, got all the internals together, and have put hundreds of 45 and 460 through it in the years since. It is a pain to try to strip the pistol normally, with the spring, plunger and all coming out the front, around the comp that also encloses the bushing when the action is closed. After taking the front half of the rod out, you have to open the action a little, turn the bushing with an open ended wrench(assuming it is fit properly snug) then carefully draw the slide back under spring pressure till you have enough room to get the guide cup out. The other way is to basically pull the slide stop under spring pressure, slowly and carefully move the slide forward and off while holding the spring with your thumb, then carefully remove the spring and guide rod with the slide off like most newer designs, then turn the bushing and pull the barrel out of the front.

It is indeed all it is claimed to be, nearly 44mag/heavy 45colt performance from a standard 1911. I have clocked loads that didn't swell, flow primers or seem abusive or overpressure at the advertied velocities. Being the OAL is the same as 45ACP, you don't have a ton of room for lots of slow powder, so lighter shorter bullets tend to perform much better, I like 200gr XTPs best, strong accurate bullet, and easy to top impressive 1400FPS velocities. I also load fat cast 250gr RN bullets to a more modest 900FPS, still above ACP+p power, but recoil is actually lighter than a stock pistol firing 230gr ball, and it absolutely launches bowling pins. Tried a mere 100 185gr loads as hot as I could get them, they were ridiculous, most topped 1500FPS which is insane. I like power pistol powder, easy to get impressive velocities, but very forgiving of minor load variances, you can also use most any 45super or 45ACP/+p data or ammo in a converted pistol. I have a Wilson extractor in mine beveled a little and tuned, while sometimes it may not be a great idea to shoot shorter cases in an auto it can be done, but instead of headspacing on the mouth you basically are headspacing on the extractor.

Clark custom actually says the shorter ACP and super length cases are safe and advisable to shoot, and I have fired thousands in mine without problems. I can also mention after a couple minor hickups when first fitted, mine has been 100% reliable and very accurate, in fact far more than the factory unmodified Kimber. I would use a decent steel frame, something forged and strong, no RIA, AMT or Taurus, and if you don't have the tools or experience to check barrel fit, either send your slide in, or get a gunsmith to at least look at the kit to make sure you are getting a good lockup, "drop-in" usually means they over-machine the surfaces and fit them loose, not neccesarily a big deal, but this one surface fit can be especially dangerous if out of spec with this cartridge. The caliber is also unlike many "custom" and wildcat calibers, there are a few factory guns chambered for it, and some can just have stock barrels or cylinders(S&W 625) chambered a little deeper, a few places make factory ammo, and brass is available, so it won't become obsolete at the whims of a single gunsmith, but it is best to stock up in case that isn't the case in the future.

I really like the caliber, it actually isn't that bad to shoot, about the same as hot 357mag in a L-frame or a compact 40 or 45 polymer pistol, the comp is very effective, and somewhat self-regulates timing, hot 460 loads don't batter the frame and don't throw brass much furter than moderate 45ACP, the increased gas pressure supposedly delays cycling, seems to work as both are reliable. 45ACP will feel like powderpuff loads, extremely soft shooting with the big comp. 460 loads look ridiculous, specially with all the flash Alliant PP powder has, and noise from the comp, but it is easily controllable, and a lot of fun while substantially increasing power for long range and hunting applications. The Clark kit was a fun project that turned out well, exceeding my expectations, and it has stood the test of time for me, if you choose your pistol wisely, and everything is well fit and finished you will have a unique and practical pistol with a good balance of exclusivity, availability, power, control, and modern technology in an iconic classic.

 

[johnhmpg]

I have the Clark drop in and have used it in both my Kimber TLE/RL II and Remington R1 Enhanced. No problems at all. Originally tried to get it to run in a Stainless Sig 1911. Would not cycle reliably. Reload brass can be found at MidwayUSA and Underwood sells 460 ammo now as does Georgia Arms when you can find it in stock. The folks at Clark are very helpful if you run into any snags. As stated above it is very easy to handle.