Citori model help

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  • JJakes

    Member
    Aug 26, 2015
    72
    Looked on Browning's site but the number doesn't seem to match up with their guide. The number is 10338PY145.

    The PY suggests it was made in 1982, right? But there's no 145 as a type of Citori.

    It's got a box forend, a mid barrel bead and the barrel says Special Steel.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
     

    Redcobra

    Senior Shooter
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 10, 2010
    6,429
    Near the Chesapeake Bay
    Looked on Browning's site but the number doesn't seem to match up with their guide. The number is 10338PY145.

    The PY suggests it was made in 1982, right? But there's no 145 as a type of Citori.

    It's got a box forend, a mid barrel bead and the barrel says Special Steel.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Is it a 12g? type 153 is a Grade 1 hunting gun, but I can't find anything on a type 145.
     

    j_h_smith

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 28, 2007
    28,516
    If the last 3 numbers could be 143 instead of 145, it would be a Citori Trap with Monte Carlo stock. Looking at the picture, that's what it appears to be.
     

    j_h_smith

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 28, 2007
    28,516
    As with any shotgun, it's only good if it fits you. I've always told people to hold the shotgun by their side. Close your eyes and bring it up to your shoulder. Open your eyes. If you have a good sight picture the shotgun fits you. If you are off by a lot, it's not the shotgun for you.

    With any Citori, I think if it fits you, you will not be disappointed, regardless of model number.
    BTW, I think it's a good price too.


    Good luck!
     

    Boom Boom

    Hold my beer. Watch this.
    Jul 16, 2010
    16,834
    Carroll
    I personally like how a trap gun shoots. I like to be able to see my target while pulling the trigger.

    Downside is that trap shotguns are designed to shoot at rising targets. If not shooting at rising targets with a trap shotgun, the target has to be floated somewhere above the bead. Depending on the float distance, accuracy and repeatability can range from decent to awful.
     

    j_h_smith

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 28, 2007
    28,516
    Downside is that trap shotguns are designed to shoot at rising targets. If not shooting at rising targets with a trap shotgun, the target has to be floated somewhere above the bead. Depending on the float distance, accuracy and repeatability can range from decent to awful.

    I don't know what you mean by that. If you pattern a trap gun, your point of aim is going to be at the 6 o'clock position for you to hit center target. Your follow through will keep you on a rising target. The shotgun just shoots above your point of aim. That's what I meant by I like the way trap guns shoot.

    Float distance(?) is true about any gun when shooting at a moving target. If you've ever hunted duck, there are times you're out in front of them a number of feet. Accuracy and repeatability are more a function of the ammo being used. Store bought ammo can be very finicky, but if you handload, you can easily get accuracy and repeatability.
     

    Redcobra

    Senior Shooter
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 10, 2010
    6,429
    Near the Chesapeake Bay
    My Trap gun shoots 70/30, meaning that 70% of the pattern (POI) is above the POA in a 30" circle at roughly 16 yds. I look at the bird and shoot and the shot rises to meet the rising target. Of course I shoot the bird quickly out of the house. My skeet gun shoots 50/50 and I shoot at the front edge of the bird as it travels across the field. Shooting skeet with my trap gun means I have to shoot the front edge and point below the bird by a good bit as the skeet bird is usually falling. Today, most store bought target ammo is pretty good and consistent (Gun Clubs,etc.)
     

    fabsroman

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 14, 2009
    36,039
    Winfield/Taylorsville in Carroll
    I personally like how a trap gun shoots. I like to be able to see my target while pulling the trigger.

    A trap gun is alright if you are shooting at something that does not require a lot of vertical gun position. Try shooting an overhead target or a rabbit with a trap gun. It is extremely difficult because there is very little comb drop. A sporting clays or field gun has a sloped comb so your cheek placement is correct for a rabbit where you have our cheek more forward on the stock, and more rearward for an overhead shot.

    Give it a try. Point the muzzle of a shotgun at your feet and see where your cheek is on the stock. Then, bring the muzzle up to point directly above you and see where your cheek is on the stock.

    A trap gun with a straight comb and very little drop at heel isn't much good for anything other than a rising target or a crosser coming right in front of you.

    As already mentioned, the trap gun is mostly for rising targets. However, the reason for very little drop at comb/heel is so the recoil will be straight into your shoulder and the gun will not rotate up much into your cheek as the muzzle climbs. That is, the recoil is more linear. Same reason most trap shooters will fire the bottom barrel all the time, and especially on doubles.
     

    fabsroman

    Ultimate Member
    Mar 14, 2009
    36,039
    Winfield/Taylorsville in Carroll
    I don't know what you mean by that. If you pattern a trap gun, your point of aim is going to be at the 6 o'clock position for you to hit center target. Your follow through will keep you on a rising target. The shotgun just shoots above your point of aim. That's what I meant by I like the way trap guns shoot.

    Float distance(?) is true about any gun when shooting at a moving target. If you've ever hunted duck, there are times you're out in front of them a number of feet. Accuracy and repeatability are more a function of the ammo being used. Store bought ammo can be very finicky, but if you handload, you can easily get accuracy and repeatability.

    You are confusing float with lead, and there are a lot of different types of lead. The float distance is the distance that you have to keep the target above the bead when shooting a rising target or a crossing target when the gun is designed to float the target. I have zero float distance with my sporting clays guns, but a small amount of float with my trap gun.

    Now, with leads, there is the sustained lead that I usually use on really long shots and the follow through lead that I use on closer shots. The follow through lead means I am swinging the gun from behind the target, I am swinging the gun faster than the target is moving, once I cover the target I pull the trigger, and if I do not stop my swing the muzzle should be in front of the target by the time the gun goes bang.

    http://www.leveragegame.com/Skeet/Swing___Lead_Types/swing___lead_types.html
     

    sxs

    Senior Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 20, 2009
    3,415
    Anne Arundel County, MD
    If it is indeed a Trap model, it will shoot high. Not flat like a field gun.

    Generrally true. Also, like Fabs pointed out, sustained lead is often used for longer distant targets (i.e. handicap) when shooting clays. Most dedicated Trap Shooters who regularly shoot handicap know exactly how much sustained lead is needed for a given distance. Since I stopped competing a number of years ago, I rarely shoot from anything but the 16 yd line or the occasional sporting clays or skeet rounds for clays and actually hunt at least as much as shoot targets. I don't really like 'floating targets' although I agree it's useful for clays...trap in particular. My is I tend to use a few different guns for different hunting and clays games and I prefer them to shoot somewhat similarly. So years ago, I rid myself of my BT 99s I used for trap. When my guns shoot fairly similarly, don't have to consciously float a bird with a Trap gun while shooting dead on with a field gun. One of my SxS shotties is actually a Sporting clays gun that does uses somewhat of a 6 O'clock hold....but not a really noticeable 'float' so it doesn't bother me too much to swap back and forth to my field guns (when not in practice, though, I don't as regularly 'dust' the clays). When I've patterned it, it appears to shoot about 2/3 of the pattern above point of aim at 30 or 40 yds. My field Guerini that I picked out a few years back is a field gun for that very reason...plus I like the way Guerini field guns fit me over the trap models. The Guerini seems to shoot about 60/40....but I haven't exactly measured it....just a looked at a patterns on paper) . Everything else I have, from a 1903 Parker VH sxs to my newer semis all shoot fairly close to point of aim. Since they all fit or very nearly so, I generally have no trouble moving from one to another
     

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