Can you help me with my Timberwolf 34 issue?

[drblast33]

Hi all, I am new to the Glock family (Sorta). I have owned nothing but Springfield XDs in the past. Anyhow, I just received the last part to my new Lone Wolf Dist. Timberwolf 34 9mm pistol. I had the slide completely assembled by Lone wolf, and the frame completely assembled by lone wolf. The only thing I had to do is install the barrel, guide spring and put them together.
Well, thats as far as I have gotten. I have not fired the weapon yet because I cant get it to consistently dry fire. Sometimes Ill hear the spring release and sometimes I can mash on the trigger all I want, and the gun wont dry fire unless I push/pull the slide a bit, or squeeze the slide down between the coffin cut and the ejection port.

I do plan on contacting Lone Wolf Dist on Monday. I was just so hyped to shoot this firearm this weekend. I originally bought the parts back in January... so I think its well deserved anxiety. I hope its just a simple fix rather than shipping the firearm back to Idaho.


Any Ideas on what this can be? I made a video of the issue too.

 

[marylandondeck]

Nice. I hope you get it figured out so you can shoot her.

 

[vin]

My guess, and just a guess, is that for whatever reason, the trigger bar is not fully depressing the firing pin stop. Do you hear a faint click as you start letting the trigger draw forward slowly after getting a "misfire"? If you are hearing a click, it's the trigger bar recatching the striker as it goes forward past the protrusion on the underside of it. That would definitely lead me to the firing pin block.

 

[hvymax]

Welcome to custom guns. Adopt a gunsmith.

 

[drblast33]

My guess, and just a guess, is that for whatever reason, the trigger bar is not fully depressing the firing pin stop. Do you hear a faint click as you start letting the trigger draw forward slowly after getting a "misfire"? If you are hearing a click, it's the trigger bar recatching the striker as it goes forward past the protrusion on the underside of it. That would definitely lead me to the firing pin block.

Ill look further into it. I don't hear any clicks when pulling the trigger when it doesn't fire. I just hear and feel a spring resisting against my trigger pull back. I don't feel like anything else is really engaging when pulling the trigger.

Unfortunately Engage Armament was a little too busy to take a look at it this weekend. They were lined up with people picking up stripped lowers this morning.

Anyone know any Glock Armorers around Gaithersburg/Rockville area that can look at this sometime today?

I might have to wait and call Lone Wolf Dist monday.

 

[hvymax]

Ill look further into it. I don't hear any clicks when pulling the trigger when it doesn't fire. I just hear and feel a spring resisting against my trigger pull back. I don't feel like anything else is really engaging when pulling the trigger.

Unfortunately Engage Armament was a little too busy to take a look at it this weekend. They were lined up with people picking up stripped lowers this morning.

Anyone know any Glock Armorers around Gaithersburg/Rockville area that can look at this sometime today?

I might have to wait and call Lone Wolf Dist monday.

Google is your friend. Either learn how to make it work or adopt a gunsmith. When I was shooting IPSC, IDPA and IHMSA (before kids when I had time and money) Trial and error and error and error and trial. I have an early Pre EAA Fratelli in 41AE. I had to fit slides/barrels in 40S&W and 9mm stock and comped. I learned about files and stones. I was working in a shop with a full CNC machine shop and precision sheet metal facility with a full team of electronics techs and engineers so I had a good support system.

 

[Kingjamez]

Take out the trigger pack and check that the trigger spring is connected to the trigger bar.

-Jim

 

[drblast33]

Take out the trigger pack and check that the trigger spring is connected to the trigger bar.

-Jim

Yup... all looks good there...

 

[drblast33]

I think I found the issue. As I sat there reading up on the armorers back plate, I remembered I DID change the back plate for a "custom design" back plate I bought from ebay a few months back. I swapped it for a stock Glock back plate, and BOOM... no more issues.
Lesson learned... never buy ANY "custom" items from ebay. I thought the back plate was completely cosmetic... but I guess if it has the wrong tolerances, it can make other major issues.
Glad I can go to the range tomorrow and try this pistol out!

 

[Kingjamez]

I think I found the issue. As I sat there reading up on the armorers back plate, I remembered I DID change the back plate for a "custom design" back plate I bought from ebay a few months back. I swapped it for a stock Glock back plate, and BOOM... no more issues.
Lesson learned... never buy ANY "custom" items from ebay. I thought the back plate was completely cosmetic... but I guess if it has the wrong tolerances, it can make other major issues.
Glad I can go to the range tomorrow and try this pistol out!

The back plate doesn't have any effect on the trigger. Did you swap the back plate out while you checked the trigger pack?

-Jim

 

[drblast33]

The back plate doesn't have any effect on the trigger. Did you swap the back plate out while you checked the trigger pack?

-Jim

Nope, I haven't pull the trigger pack since earlier today... It definitely was the back plate.
I think the thickness of the back plate can cause trigger issues. See this:
http://www.ghostinc.com/product/GHO_GAP/GHOST-ARMORERS-PLATE-for-Glocks-GENs-1-4.html

 

[drblast33]

So I looked back at my purchase on ebay, and I bought the slide cover plate from a user named "tacticalstop". Well, looks like he is no longer on ebay.... so I might not have been the only one with issues with this. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to try it all out until I received the last piece of this project pistol, to see the issue.

Anyhow, the way I figured it out was looking at the description of the Ghost Triggers Orange Armorers Installers Slide Plate. Ghost state this about their armorers plate:
The plate is sectioned by 1/3 in height to permit viewing of the sear and firing pin engagement. Our plate is slightly thicker in width than the Glock plate. We make this plate thicker in width because this thickness moves the firing pin leg slightly forward. Moving the firing pin leg effects where the trigger releases the firing pin. Moving it slightly forward gives you more adjustment of the Trigger Control Tab (TCT) once your thinner Glock black plate is reinstalled. Once you shorten the TCT enough so that the pistol to fires you should remove the orange plate and reinstall your Glock black plate. Your Glock plate is thinner your pistol should still fire but you may feel a load (load=you pull the trigger it will stop against the TCT then you will add more force or load to the trigger to get the pistol to fire). If this condition exist remove the connector again and final fit by removing an ever so slight amount from the TCT. This will allow for you to get a precise fit with the EVO ELITE, ROCKET & TACTICAL triggers.
So I figured, if my trigger was optimized by Lone Wolf Dist on a stock Glock slide plate, an out of tolerance thinner plate may be too thin causing the firing pin leg too far back... causing an intermittent issue with the trigger.