Building my own CNC router

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  • ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    Ok looks like I'm almost ready. I made some mistakes in that I couldn't figure out how to maintain an exact Zero reference point in the Mach3 software so I just had to align by trial and error. So the bottom surface of the pocket is a but rough looking with tool marks. I think I can correct that by adding some finishing passes too.

    Also the trigger hole needs to be about 1/16" wider to fit a standard trigger and I've got to mill the back area if the picket a bit further on the real lower.

    Now Ive got to finish my holding jig and try a dry run to make sure the spindle or any part of the Z axis doesn't crash into buffer tube flange.

    https://vimeo.com/199503200

    6e8a2500419a4ed8993eb87bd8189f7a.jpg


    If all goes well I'll pick up a decent 8-10" 300b/o upper at the Fredericksburg show on the 28th and in time for the next SOTAR build class.


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    Boss94

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 15, 2013
    6,945
    So far things are looking Great. See if you can find a 3 flute cutter with just enough flute for the pocket and solid shank fr OK my there up to give you rigidity hanging out far enough to the height of the buffer tube boss. I'm not familiar with your software. But I know in Gibbs I can pull geometry off of a model, force the geometry to Z zero then tell it what my depth will be and in how many steps to do it in.
     

    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    Test pocket positioning. I've got my fixtures all built and positioned on the table.

    994111cbfaf2cfded2fb166d515c2e35.jpg


    Just ran a test pass .020 deep to confirm alignment of the pocket with the lower. Looks like I'm off to the left about .020".

    Anyway I'm getting excited I've got the last few parts coming in any day now If I finish this up over the weekend I should be ready to shoot next weekend.

    94d6cf7fa6a1f76812c9a5b999f331ec.jpg


    Then I'm going to try my hand at Cerakote or Duracoat.

    a3e8414b843a1c6dad9ce848960bf149.jpg




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    Boss94

    Ultimate Member
    Feb 15, 2013
    6,945
    If it's .02 off to 1 side split the difference and move it .01 or you will be out the opposite way. You probably already know this. But if you didn't then there ya go.
     

    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    Well gentlemen a firearm is being born right now.

    About 1/3 through the milling process and coming along quite nicely.

    fdeed52542718916d36f8cca245ea802.jpg




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    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    All done.

    3f6bb47ffd6f8ced77fff80ef5a62a54.jpg


    ca2ae3792b9d123a85e5e72ff587fc65.jpg


    e68e56c14d13635cdc3b30dc2bceacb4.jpg


    The trigger hole was a bit too far back by about 0.060 so i had to file it out a bit but other than that it went together fairly smoothly.

    All in all it was a great learning experience.



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    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
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    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    I noticed the prices have dropped substantially in the last 6 months. Midway has AR-Stoner unfinished for $39 I may pickup a few and experiment with milling out the sides of the mag well.


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    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
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    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    What's your pocket strategy?

    Ramped/stepped contouring with offsets? Adaptive contouring?



    I used a 1/4" 4 flute cutter and made passes at 1mm depth. I used the adaptive clearing tool path setting as well. Then I made a final contouring pass to remove .3mm. Those were stepped 6mm per pass.




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    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,412
    Hagerstown MD
    Looks good. I'm deciphering the same prints you have to mill mine out on my CNC mill. I'm curious why you chose to not mill out the rest of the pocket towards the rear firing pin? From the pics it looks like it's not needed for a semi auto application but I plotted it out on BobCAD anyways.

    My machine is pretty rigid so I'm going straight mill with a 1/4" carbide four flute. I was going to fixture it but this work is so simple I think I'll just free mount it in the vise and index off the pins with an edge finder.
     

    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
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    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    Looks good. I'm deciphering the same prints you have to mill mine out on my CNC mill. I'm curious why you chose to not mill out the rest of the pocket towards the rear firing pin? From the pics it looks like it's not needed for a semi auto application but I plotted it out on BobCAD anyways.

    My machine is pretty rigid so I'm going straight mill with a 1/4" carbide four flute. I was going to fixture it but this work is so simple I think I'll just free mount it in the vise and index off the pins with an edge finder.


    I was going to mill out the full pocket but then decided against doing so. My main concern was getting a perfect alignment. Since this was my first time milling I wasn't exactly confident in how accurately I could align the pocket. I figured by not going all the way back I could be a few thousandths off and I wouldn't notice. Which by the way is exactly what happened.

    What type of machine do you have btw? Just curious if you built your own. I'm thinking about re-configuring this one to change the Y-axis to a longer moving gantry style along with using a stiffer beam for the X-axis. It wouldn't be as sturdy as a cast iron or steel frame but probably a big improvement over what I've got so far.


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    Ranchero50

    Ultimate Member
    Dec 15, 2012
    5,412
    Hagerstown MD
    I have a '91 built Bridgeport 308 that Black and Decker used to prototype parts on back in the day. I've had it since 2008 and it's dang handy. I have a seat of BobCAD V18 for basic stuff and OneCNC for complex parts. Work environment is only 18" X, 12" Y and 18" X but the table is big enough to hold two vises. The machine runs on Dos 6.1 and talks to my shop puter so I can DNC from it.

    This is a little project I did to build a piccy rail for a monkey stocked Hi Point. Fun project.

    DSC01550_zps6449e89e.jpg


    DSC01559_zpsbc7e14b2.jpg


    DSC01542_zpsce8a645e.jpg


    DSC01539_zpscd9c146b.jpg


    What are you using for CAD?
     

    ToolAA

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Jun 17, 2016
    10,599
    God's Country
    I have a '91 built Bridgeport 308 that Black and Decker used to prototype parts on back in the day. I've had it since 2008 and it's dang handy. I have a seat of BobCAD V18 for basic stuff and OneCNC for complex parts. Work environment is only 18" X, 12" Y and 18" X but the table is big enough to hold two vises. The machine runs on Dos 6.1 and talks to my shop puter so I can DNC from it.



    This is a little project I did to build a piccy rail for a monkey stocked Hi Point. Fun project.





    What are you using for CAD?


    Wow those parts look nice. I am sure you wont have any problem milling the lower.

    I have used AutoCAD for 33yrs but 3D modeling is new to me. I've been using Sketchup to to the basic designs then transferring files into Autodesk Fusion 360. 360 is a very powerful software with built in CAM. It took me a few months to figure out what I did so far. I'm sure an introductory class would be a big boost to my skill level but I don't have the time.



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