Bowtech Carbon Knight/Apex Sighting in Procedures?

[HokieKev]

Hi Everyone,

I just purchased my first compound bow - the Bowtech Carbon Knight. I took it out to shoot it this evening for the first time. I shot probably 20 rounds of 5 or 6 arrows each round and all of my shots are hitting a high and significantly to the right.

I actually set up a target at 30 yards and placed a small orange sticker low and to the left (the point of aim) so that the arrows would hit a 9 inch paper plate (the point of impact) which was high and to the right (see enclosed photo). Incidentally, I fired a few dozen shots from 20 yards as well and got the same high and to the right groupings.

The sight that I am using is the one that came with the bow (from the R.A.K. package). As far as I can tell I did not receive any owners manual for the sight that came with this bow. I am familiar with sighting in a rifle (where each click of the elevation or or windage on the sight might result in a 1/4 inch change at 25 meters - for example.

How do I change elevation and windage on this sight and how to I determine how much to change it? The sight says Apex Gear on it - but I contacted the Apex manufacturer and evidently they don't have an exact manual for the sight that Bowtech is selling with the Carbon Knight in the RAK package. I have an e-mail out to Bowtech as well but have not yet heard back.

Any suggestions? Good Youtube videos?

Thanks in advance.

 

[lx1x]

Did you buy online or bow store?. The sights is off and you need to adjust it... Move the dots toward the poi.

 

[vin]

I couldn't tell if the hash marks on my sight were graduated for anything specific, I guess not because it will change depending on the set up.

Get out the Allen wrenches and start playing with it.

Remember that you are moving the front sight, move the pin/sight in the direction of where the impact is in relation to the point of aim. In this case, you would move the sight to the right and up. Work on windage first.

Edit: don't mess with the screws that mount it to the bow itself, you will probably notice two sliding mechanisms and a means of clamping them in place, those are the screws to loosen for adjustment.

 

[HokieKev]

I couldn't tell if the hash marks on my sight were graduated for anything specific, I guess not because it will change depending on the set up.

Get out the Allen wrenches and start playing with it.

Remember that you are moving the front sight, move the pin/sight in the direction of where the impact is in relation to the point of aim. In this case, you would move the sight to the right and up. Work on windage first.

Edit: don't mess with the screws that mount it to the bow itself, you will probably notice two sliding mechanisms and a means of clamping them in place, those are the screws to loosen for adjustment.

Is there any rule of thumb to determine how far to move the sight. It looks like windage is off quite a bit. Is it just a process of trial and error?

 

[vin]

Is there any rule of thumb to determine how far to move the sight. It looks like windage is off quite a bit. Is it just a process of trial and error?

If there is a rule of thumb, I haven't learned it yet. I think you may be worrying about this more than you need to. Play with the sight, sling some arrows, repeat.

 

[HokieKev]

Ah... yes, this actually does look pretty simple. I see the two hex nuts that control elevation and windage.

I have a 4 pin sight. What they told me at the shop was to get the first pin sighted in at 20 yards by moving the entire pin box. Hopefully, once I get 20 sighted in I won't have to make too many adjustments to the 30, 40 and 50 yard pins - they should be close, right?

Actually, at this point if I can get 20 sighted in and 30 is pretty close I will be happy. I have not really done much shooting at 40 and 50 yards anyway.

Looks like I will have to take some time tomorrow and play with this stuff.

 

[HokieKev]

If there is a rule of thumb, I haven't learned it yet. I think you may be worrying about this more than you need to. Play with the sight, sling some arrows, repeat.

Yes, I agree. After all, it's not like you are "wasting ammo" - since the "ammo" is all reusable. ;-) Still, just philosophically, it seems to me there should be some more scientific way of doing this (like when you are sighting in a rifle).

 

[mark71211]

Just chase your arrows with your 20 yard pin and get that dead on. Also watch to make sure your not torching your wrist as your shooting. But not sure if that will make a big difference at 20 yards.

 

[outrider58]

Stop shooting at paper plates. I cannot stress this enough. Shoot at one inch spots, any color you like but, one inch targets. Next, don't try to hold pin hard on the target...let it float on the spot. You should be semi-relaxed when shooting. Use the muscles between your shoulder blades to draw and hold. Do not lower your bow until arrow hits the target(follow through). If you shoot with one eye closed, keep it closed until arrow hits the target. These things should help. Also don't start moving pins until you shoot consistent tight groups, say 4 or 5 inches at ten or twenty yards for now.

 

[HokieKev]

Stop shooting at paper plates. I cannot stress this enough. Shoot at one inch spots, any color you like but, one inch targets. Next, don't try to hold pin hard on the target...let it float on the spot. You should be semi-relaxed when shooting. Use the muscles between your shoulder blades to draw and hold. Do not lower your bow until arrow hits the target(follow through). If you shoot with one eye closed, keep it closed until arrow hits the target. These things should help. Also don't start moving pins until you shoot consistent tight groups, say 4 or 5 inches at ten or twenty yards for now.

Thanks for the tips. I am planning to go out today so I will give them a try.

 

[wilcam47]

Is there any rule of thumb to determine how far to move the sight. It looks like windage is off quite a bit. Is it just a process of trial and error?

the specific model of sight might tell you what the graduation lines if any are calibrated to...some sights have clicks, like my HHA sight has clicks and each one is 1/4" @20yds or something similar. Its best for your case to get the elevation or windage where you want it then move to the other. Also if you are practicing with field tips you will notice that some broadheads fly and have a different POI than field tips. practice with what you will be shooting with.

 

[Praeger]

Is there any rule of thumb to determine how far to move the sight. It looks like windage is off quite a bit. Is it just a process of trial and error?

Before you set your sights, you'll need to set your nock height and center shot. The nock height refers to the angle relative to the string formed by the arrow when nocked. Typically this is perpendicular, or no more than 1/8" high (the nock 1/8" higher than the arrow rest). Center shot is the left right adjustment of the arrow rest.

Here's an easy way to set both up. While it is referred to as the Quick Tune in the video, the center shot is called Walk Back tuning.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f25Wr1EULRg&list=PL1E962AFF7024E811