Boiled vs Raw Linseed Oil for Springfields

[fred333]

I'm assisting a friend refinish his SC 1903A3 and recommended the use of boiled linseed oil (BLO) as being the traditional OEM finish. However, the friend mistakenly purchased raw linseed oil and wanted to know if the resultant finish would be the same as with boiled. I'm stumped...anyone?

 

[outrider58]

I don't have your answer, but I came across this...

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/boiled-linseed-oil-vs-raw-linseed-oil

 

[John from MD]

Raw linseed oil will take forever to cure! Don't use it, run away, quick. One of the best products I have found that goes on easy and does a great job is Birtchwood Casey's Truoil. It is readily available at most gun shops or on line.

If you choose to use it, stand the bottle on the cap after you are finished. This prevents the air in the bottle from curing a plug in the neck.

 

[Melnic]

I recall the raw was better in the long run but as pointed out in the above link dries slower. obnoxiously slower.
When finishing a muzzleloader kit, I recall raw was harder to get locally. BLO was really easy.

 

[John from MD]

PSA for you folks who are refinishing guns with linseed oil, turpentine, oil based stains etc. It is important to store any rags contaminated with these types of oils in a sealed can, such as an steel ammo can, until you can either have them dry outside or properly dispose of them. I usually let them dry outside away from the house and then soak them in water and throw out with the trash.

NEVER throw them in the trash as these oils generate heat during drying and can cause spontaneous combustion. I have run into many people who think that it is fossil fuel type oils that are a risk for fire. Some are as they can burn but the oils that cause spontaneous combustion are a different animal.

Perhaps our firefighting friends can add something that I missed.

 

[Jimbob2.0]

PSA for you folks who are refinishing guns with linseed oil, turpentine, oil based stains etc. It is important to store any rags contaminated with these types of oils in a sealed can, such as an steel ammo can, until you can either have them dry outside or properly dispose of them. I usually let them dry outside away from the house and then soak them in water and throw out with the trash.

NEVER throw them in the trash as these oils generate heat during drying and can cause spontaneous combustion. I have run into many people who think that it is fossil fuel type oils that are a risk for fire. Some are as they can burn but the oils that cause spontaneous combustion are a different animal.

Perhaps our firefighting friends can add something that I missed.

 

[somd_mustangs]

I thought putting BLO-soaked (exothermic) rags in a sealed can was bad juju.

 

[j_h_smith]

Raw Linseed oil is bad stuff. It will take forever to dry/cure. It will gather dust, bugs, you name it, while it's drying. If applied too heavily, it will develop runs while drying and you'll never see them until it's too late. My personal opinion, throw it away immediately.

Good luck!

 

[Jimbob2.0]

I thought putting BLO-soaked (exothermic) rags in a sealed can was bad juju.

What I would do is the latter part of the gentleman above's suggestion. I usually soak the heck out of them with water in a bucket and send them out to the driveway to dry then to disposal. But I am paranoid.

Ive never seen one combust but Ive felt the heat when they have been in a container temporarily while finishing.

 

[Machodoc]

I usually soak the heck out of them with water in a bucket and send them out to the driveway to dry then to disposal. But I am paranoid.

I do about the same thing. I've got a gravel pile in reserve for driveway repairs that I use to dry (washed) rags on ... or I put them in my outdoor burn container if they aren't likely to be used again.

As for the "best" finish to use, there are lots of things that you can use, but BLO is probably the most traditional. It's what I used on my issued Garand in the mid-60s.

 

[dreadpirate]

I'm assisting a friend refinish his SC 1903A3 and recommended the use of boiled linseed oil (BLO) as being the traditional OEM finish. However, the friend mistakenly purchased raw linseed oil and wanted to know if the resultant finish would be the same as with boiled. I'm stumped...anyone?

When I was a kid my parents would (with our help) clean up antique furniture using boiled linseed oil. We never used raw; not sure why. I can tell you boiled linseed oil worked well.

 

[ted76]

I remember my Dad boiling Linseed oil in a double boiler, when he couldn't find boiled linseed oil at the hardware store, but I don't think it's worth the effort.

 

[outrider58]

What I would do is the latter part of the gentleman above's suggestion. I usually soak the heck out of them with water in a bucket and send them out to the driveway to dry then to disposal. But I am paranoid.

Ive never seen one combust but Ive felt the heat when they have been in a container temporarily while finishing.

No, not paranoid, smart. I have seen the results off these products spontaneously combust. It ain't a matter of if, but a matter of when.

 

[rbird7282]

PSA for you folks who are refinishing guns with linseed oil, turpentine, oil based stains etc. It is important to store any rags contaminated with these types of oils in a sealed can, such as an steel ammo can, until you can either have them dry outside or properly dispose of them. I usually let them dry outside away from the house and then soak them in water and throw out with the trash.

NEVER throw them in the trash as these oils generate heat during drying and can cause spontaneous combustion. I have run into many people who think that it is fossil fuel type oils that are a risk for fire. Some are as they can burn but the oils that cause spontaneous combustion are a different animal.

Perhaps our firefighting friends can add something that I missed.

Those rags should be put into a sealed metal can THAT IS FILLED WITH WATER.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Doco Overboard]

Cut raw linseed or china oil back to 1 part oil 3 parts turpentine and continue to apply over and over and over until you are down to a few drops of straight oil. I then use modified tung oil or BLO as a drier. A final rubdown with rottenstone and some water or paraffin as as a paste vehicle with a felt pad will get you where you want to be. Avoid products that offer a too quick approach like tru oil or linspeed that have plastics in them for a more authentic finish or a parade look. They have their place and are great products but not on a SC stock unless that's what you want. Original stocks were completely immersed in warm BLO for about 5 hrs. If collect-ability is your goal use the formula with cheesecloth to gently clean the stock and then introduce oil without sanding. Raw oil products can have a flashpoint of 230 deg. so use the sun as a warming agent and throw your rags or cheesecloth in the fire barrel right away. This is what works for me and is strictly opinion.

 

[noahhh]

All good advice. I use BLO and tung oil a lot in the shop, and I dispose of the rags by soaking in water, wringing dry, and spreading them flat on the floor to dry completely over night. Spontaneous combustion occurs when balled up rags are left in a pile- the insulation provided to the stuff in the core of the pile promotes heat retention which may induce spontaneity. Some of the suggestions given here may be overly anal, but I suppose it's better to err on the conservative side.

Another thing- BLO isn't actually boiled. It is raw oil with metallic salts added to induce drying.

Best source for fresh oil: art supply stores. The better the grade of oil and the fresher it is, the better are the chances of a successful finish.

No difference whatsoever in the characteristics of BLO and tung oil. The folks who make finishing products use the two interchangeably depending on which they can get the cheapest.

 

[Bolts Rock]

Depot and Lowes rarely have raw. Woodcraft sometimes has it, call or order online for in store pick up. Be aware either linseed oil sucks as a finish, pure tung oil is better and gives the same look as BLO. The only advantage to raw linseed is the color it develops as it oxidizes but that can be replicated with dye and tung oil. The only advantage to BLO is Depot and Lowes stock it.

I spread the rags to dry over a metal rod then put them in a can of water on trash day.

 

[ken792]

I recall the raw was better in the long run but as pointed out in the above link dries slower. obnoxiously slower.
When finishing a muzzleloader kit, I recall raw was harder to get locally. BLO was really easy.

I go with raw linseed oil on my 03 and M1s. I also put it on the parkerizing. It soaks into the pores and forms a good protective coating when it cures.

You can get it at Vitamin Shoppe, or many other stores that sell dietary supplements. I think I got one of these locally for around $11. It does seem different from what's sold as "raw linseed oil". It smells a little different and it ages red quicker.

https://www.vitaminshoppe.com/p/cer...tent=VS-1484&gclid=CMvZ6Nqj09ACFUVMDQodMr8LyA

 

[Doco Overboard]

Heres an old Springfield stock that has been boned and been around the block before getting cleaned and re-oiled by some of the methods discussed.

 

[Major03]

In re oil finish choices for gunstocks, some here have referred to tung oil. It was used on most Garand and '03 stocks as an initial finish and it is an authentic and good choice. However, most of the tung oil you purchase today is actually a varnish. If you choose to go with a tung oil finish, you should look for pure tung oil. I don't think Home Depot or Lowe's carry it, what they carry is the varnish.