AUG muzzle device removal

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  • n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    Anyone know a gunsmith that can get this damned muzzle device off my AUG? It has the 13x1 LH thread. I've tried everything I can find on the internet to try and budge the thing but I can't get it to move. Time to send it off for professional work before I screw something up.
     
    Anyone know a gunsmith that can get this damned muzzle device off my AUG? It has the 13x1 LH thread. I've tried everything I can find on the internet to try and budge the thing but I can't get it to move. Time to send it off for professional work before I screw something up.
    Is it pinned and welded?
    If the muzzle device is what makes the barrel >16", that is the likely case.
     

    n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    No its a standard 16 inch barrel. Definitely not pinned and welded that I can see. I found an old entry on AR-15.com saying to burn off the loctite, turn the lock nut tighter to back off the lock nut away from the muzzle device to loosen it. Nope. Doesn't budge. Then they said to just muscle it off the muzzle device without moving the lock nut. Tried. Doesn't budge. I know its LH so it turns the opposite way. Just trying to pre-position answers to likely questions.
     

    4g64loser

    Bad influence
    Jan 18, 2007
    6,551
    maryland
    No its a standard 16 inch barrel. Definitely not pinned and welded that I can see. I found an old entry on AR-15.com saying to burn off the loctite, turn the lock nut tighter to back off the lock nut away from the muzzle device to loosen it. Nope. Doesn't budge. Then they said to just muscle it off the muzzle device without moving the lock nut. Tried. Doesn't budge. I know its LH so it turns the opposite way. Just trying to pre-position answers to likely questions.
    Did the "ninja smoke" come out when you heated it? If not, loctite is still doing its thing.

    I've done some really nasty ones with an acetylene torch but in most cases a propane torch is enough. I use an IR temp to monitor barrel and muzzle.device Temps throughout the process. If I have to go hard on one, I will heat sink the barrel. A towel soaked in ice water and changed out regularly works fine.

    Are you working in a barrel vise? If not, you probably won't have much luck.
     

    n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    I got the smoke. I have it pinned in a vise. Holding the locknut with one wrench and turning the muzzle device as hard as I could the other way. Tried smacking the wrench on the device to break it loose. I just can't get it.
     

    atblis

    Ultimate Member
    May 23, 2010
    2,036
    Cut a slit in the muzzle device along it's length, but not all the way through to the threads. Then use a cold chisel to split the muzzle device. If done properly, can do this with no damage to the muzzle threads.
     

    4g64loser

    Bad influence
    Jan 18, 2007
    6,551
    maryland
    I got the smoke. I have it pinned in a vise. Holding the locknut with one wrench and turning the muzzle device as hard as I could the other way. Tried smacking the wrench on the device to break it loose. I just can't get it.
    What general area of MD are you in? What wrench size(s) are you using?
    Cut a slit in the muzzle device along it's length, but not all the way through to the threads. Then use a cold chisel to split the muzzle device. If done properly, can do this with no damage to the muzzle threads.
    This works if you don't mind losing the muzzle device. I was working under the assumption that OP wanted to save it. If I misread that, my apologies.
     

    n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    I'm down in St Mary's county but if someone knows a gunsmith I don't mind paying for shipping to and from the shop. I was using a narrow 3/4 inch wrench on the locknut and my tapco armorer's wrench fits fine on the muzzle device. My overall intent is to pull it off so that I can fit an after market muzzle device on it to either support my AAC suppressor or my dead air suppressor. Then I would like to have the stupid metric threads cut away and recut for a normal thread pitch then pin and weld the new device to make length or use a thread adapter. Also looking for a gunsmith that pins and welds... Surprisingly difficult to find. Waiting on the suppressor gas plug is another hurdle....
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    Why remove the metric threads? Many companies make M13x1LH muzzle devices for suppressors. What brand/model are you trying to put on?
    FWIW, if you used a flow-through suppressor (like a HUXWRX) you wouldn't need a different gas plug.
     

    n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    Why remove the metric threads? Many companies make M13x1LH muzzle devices for suppressors. What brand/model are you trying to put on?
    FWIW, if you used a flow-through suppressor (like a HUXWRX) you wouldn't need a different gas plug.
    AAC and Dead Air don't which are the cans that I own. AAC used to. Tried to find one of those but couldn't.
     

    4g64loser

    Bad influence
    Jan 18, 2007
    6,551
    maryland
    Can't help with the muzzle device availability issue sorry.

    A crows foot on a long breaker bar would allow you better torque. Absent that, matco makes heavy duty "wrench extenders". They work way better than a cheater pipe. I own both sizes and they have saved me a few times.
     

    brianns

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 29, 2015
    3,691
    Montgomery County
    Did you ask the manufacturer how it was attached, like if its rockset or loctite? Rockset needs a good long soak in water to release.
     

    outrider58

    Eats Bacon Raw
    MDS Supporter
    Jul 29, 2014
    50,071
    Why remove the metric threads? Many companies make M13x1LH muzzle devices for suppressors. What brand/model are you trying to put on?
    FWIW, if you used a flow-through suppressor (like a HUXWRX) you wouldn't need a different gas plug.
    Don't know about your experiences, but I've found that euro or left-hand threaded cans come loose almost as much as right-hand threaded cans.
     

    smdub

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Nov 14, 2012
    4,665
    MoCo
    AAC and Dead Air don't which are the cans that I own. AAC used to. Tried to find one of those but couldn't.
    Which models? Many Dead Airs use the 'universal' 1.375-24 HUB standard. You can swap the mount to someone elses brand / third party who has the matching barrel pitch. IIRC the new AACs use it too. The old ones didn't. So if you have a new enough suppressor that uses the HUB, there should definitely be an adapter available.
     

    brianns

    Ultimate Member
    MDS Supporter
    Dec 29, 2015
    3,691
    Montgomery County
    This. You will need to leave it in a pot of boiling water for at least an hour.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    If rockset, 20 mins in boiling water. Flexbar has a video illustrating it on YouTube. I just rewatched the first of my videos troubleshooting my 6.8. I described that some. I have some footage with the barrel in a pot of boiling water, etc. but it didn’t work until 20 minutes of hot water. That’s not all in the video though.

     

    n111tro

    Member
    Jan 17, 2017
    21
    Which models? Many Dead Airs use the 'universal' 1.375-24 HUB standard. You can swap the mount to someone elses brand / third party who has the matching barrel pitch. IIRC the new AACs use it too. The old ones didn't. So if you have a new enough suppressor that uses the HUB, there should definitely be an adapter available.
    I have the dead air wolfman. Got it for 9mm, but it's rated for 350 legend, 5.56, 7.62x39. But you have to use the key micro brake and adapter for rifle stuff. I also have an aac 7.62 sdn.
     

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