AR-15 Upper Build Advice

[hi3cho]

Okay so I have mapped out my purchases before Oct 1. I have/am waiting for two NFA Poly Lowers with LPK installed. Spare me the Poly lower bashes, I have heard good things about them and they have a lifetime warranty that they have said they will be able to hold up after the ban. I am also waiting on my MD DC so I can buy two PSA forged lowers so I am covering just incase there ends up being an issue with the Poly's. For the sake of this thread the lowers are set and I am really just asking about the Upper Halves.

I plan on having two fully built by Oct 1 and wait on doing anything with the other two lowers. The only parts I currently have are an JoeBob's Enhanced BCG and a UTG 6 Pos Stock.

The first build:

NFA Poly Lower
NFA LPK
RRA 6 Pos Tactical CAR Stock (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
RRA CAR A4 Complete Upper Half 1/9 Twist Chrome Lined Barrel

I am new to AR's but I have heard that the 1/9 Twist is not optimal for the heavier 5.56 rounds so I think I will stick with .223 in this rifle.

I am pretty set on this one but I am up for suggestions and thoughts on the 1/9 Twist

Two Options for 2nd Build.

PSA Lower
RRA LPK with 2 Stage Trigger (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
UTG 6 Pos Tactical Stock (Have)
PSA 16" Stripped Upper 1/7 Twist
JobBob's Enchanged BCG (Have)
Charging Handle (Suggestions Please, Have heard pretty much all the same)

OR

PSA Lower
RRA LPK with 2 Stage Trigger (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
UTG 6 Pos Tactical Stock (Have)
BCM 16" Mid-Length Upper Group 1/7 Twist
Rail (Question Here with BCM Group, I need to buy a Rail Correct?)
JobBob's Enchanged BCG (Have)
Charging Handle

The second build will be the nicer rifle and should be able to fire both .223 and 5.56 from what I have read.

I appreciate any help and advice and if any of my terminology or thougts are incorrect please feel free to correct. Also RRA offers at AR CAR Build Kit with everything but the lower so thats why I am using the RRA LPK with the two stage trigger in the second build. Thanks guys

 

[Russ D]

1-7 twist will do just as well as 1-9 twist with lighter bullets down to 50 grains but 1-9 won't do well with the heavier than 72-75+ weight pills. Although some 1-9's will shoot 75's ok. BCM is very good, but PSA isn't bad either. Given the choice I'd take BCM every time. There are premium charging handles that run 45$ and up that are worth the upgrade but fall entirely to user preference. Most love the Raptor but I find it overly bulky for something I almost never use. I prefer a standard CH with the Badger latch.

Why build two carbines? I would build one 16" and one 18 SPR length upper for scope use.

Also I would go middy gas on both.

 

[hi3cho]

1-7 twist will do just as well as 1-9 twist with lighter bullets down to 50 grains but 1-7 won't do well with the heavier than 72-75+ weight pills. Although some 1-9's will shoot 75's ok. BCM is very good, but PSA isn't bad either. Given the choice I'd take BCM every time. There are premium charging handles that run 45$ and up that are worth the upgrade but fall entirely to user preference. Most love the Raptor but I find it overly bulky for something I almost never use. I prefer a standard CH with the Badger latch.

Why build two carbines? I would build one 16" and one 18 SPR length upper for scope use.

Also I would go middy gas on both.

I corrected my post, The BCM is actually a mid-length upper group. Is there a reason you prefer the Mid-Length over the Carbine? Would be building one of each my best bet?

 

[mward]

I corrected my post, The BCM is actually a mid-length upper group. Is there a reason you prefer the Mid-Length over the Carbine? Would be building one of each my best bet?

Reduced recoil, more reliable gun. Carbine is for < 16". Mid length for 16+, rifle 20+

 

[hi3cho]

Reduced recoil, more reliable gun. Carbine is for < 16". Mid length for 16+, rifle 20+

Gotcha, I did a little research and basically found the same thing. I was using RRA as a starting point since they sell completed uppers, however it looks like a lot of there configurations are off based on the Gas Block Equation. Essentially in order to have a proper carbine uppper I would at 14.5 barrel with a fixed flash hider in order to make it 16 in and not be an SBR. I guess that is one good thing about the long wait, I have plently of time to shop around on uppers.

 

[vcaddy05]

Okay so I have mapped out my purchases before Oct 1. I have/am waiting for two NFA Poly Lowers with LPK installed. Spare me the Poly lower bashes, I have heard good things about them and they have a lifetime warranty that they have said they will be able to hold up after the ban. I am also waiting on my MD DC so I can buy two PSA forged lowers so I am covering just incase there ends up being an issue with the Poly's. For the sake of this thread the lowers are set and I am really just asking about the Upper Halves.

I plan on having two fully built by Oct 1 and wait on doing anything with the other two lowers. The only parts I currently have are an JoeBob's Enhanced BCG and a UTG 6 Pos Stock.

The first build:

NFA Poly Lower
NFA LPK
RRA 6 Pos Tactical CAR Stock (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
RRA CAR A4 Complete Upper Half 1/9 Twist Chrome Lined Barrel

I am new to AR's but I have heard that the 1/9 Twist is not optimal for the heavier 5.56 rounds so I think I will stick with .223 in this rifle.

I am pretty set on this one but I am up for suggestions and thoughts on the 1/9 Twist

Two Options for 2nd Build.

PSA Lower
RRA LPK with 2 Stage Trigger (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
UTG 6 Pos Tactical Stock (Have)
PSA 16" Stripped Upper 1/7 Twist
JobBob's Enchanged BCG (Have)
Charging Handle (Suggestions Please, Have heard pretty much all the same)

OR

PSA Lower
RRA LPK with 2 Stage Trigger (Comes in RRA CAR Build Kit)
UTG 6 Pos Tactical Stock (Have)
BCM 16" Mid-Length Upper Group 1/7 Twist
Rail (Question Here with BCM Group, I need to buy a Rail Correct?)
JobBob's Enchanged BCG (Have)
Charging Handle

The second build will be the nicer rifle and should be able to fire both .223 and 5.56 from what I have read.

I appreciate any help and advice and if any of my terminology or thougts are incorrect please feel free to correct. Also RRA offers at AR CAR Build Kit with everything but the lower so thats why I am using the RRA LPK with the two stage trigger in the second build. Thanks guys

Sounds almost exactly like mine. I bought a NFA Poly complete lower, then bought a DPMS 16" 1/9 complete upper. Joebobs had my lower delivered at my FFL dealers door within 3 business days of ordering. I ordered it on friday the 19th and it was at my FFL dealers doorstep wed the 24th. Total cost $550 for a bottom barrel rifle just to get my feet wet. By the time I can take possession of my lower, I should have my collectors license in which I will purchase some nicer lowers to build some better builds, but I think this will be just fine.

 

[Furious George]

I am new to AR's but I have heard that the 1/9 Twist is not optimal for the heavier 5.56 rounds so I think I will stick with .223 in this rifle.

I am pretty set on this one but I am up for suggestions and thoughts on the 1/9 Twist


The second build will be the nicer rifle and should be able to fire both .223 and 5.56 from what I have read.

I

The 223/5.56 issue lies in the chamber dimensions and the pressure level to which the ammunition is loaded. The exterior physical dimensions of the ammo are the same.

Military 5.56 ammo comes in two flavors 55gr M193 and 62 gr M855/SS109. A 1/9 twist barrel should handle both with no problem.

The only 5.56 ammo that would give you a problem are the current M856 tracer that requires a 1/7 twist.

Any other ammo that you buy or reload will likely loaded to commercial 223 Remington specs. Whether your rifle will shoot it well or not depends only on the bullet weight/length.

223 Remington ammo with bullets up to about 69grains will shoot fine out of either a 1/7 or a 1/9 twist barrel.

223 Remington ammo loaded with heavy, long match bullets in the 75 - 80+ gr. bullet weight range will start to give you stability problems with a 1/9 twist barrel. These bullets should be OK in a 1/7 twist barrel.

In both cases it is irrelevant if the barrel chamber is cut to 223 or 5.56 dimensions.

 

[ObsceneJesster]

I would save the UTG stuff for one of the polly lowers.

If you're going to put the money into a high end upper such as BCM then you're probably going to want a all around quality rifle. Also, put the BCM on one of the aluminum lowers.

Use the polly lowers for cheap builds. Maybe even use one for a 22 build.



Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Jim'sKid]

Sounds almost exactly like mine. I bought a NFA Poly complete lower, then bought a DPMS 16" 1/9 complete upper. Joebobs had my lower delivered at my FFL dealers door within 3 business days of ordering. I ordered it on friday the 19th and it was at my FFL dealers doorstep wed the 24th. Total cost $550 for a bottom barrel rifle just to get my feet wet. By the time I can take possession of my lower, I should have my collectors license in which I will purchase some nicer lowers to build some better builds, but I think this will be just fine.

I had a similar experience picking up two NFA complete poly lowers from Joe Bob's. I think I'll follow the suggestons on the DPSM upper and maybe a .22. Any recommendations on a complete .22 upper? Cost is an issue. Just trying to keep from getting thrown out of the house.

 

[hi3cho]

I would save the UTG stuff for one of the polly lowers.

If you're going to put the money into a high end upper such as BCM then you're probably going to want a all around quality rifle. Also, put the BCM on one of the aluminum lowers.

Use the polly lowers for cheap builds. Maybe even use one for a 22 build.



Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

As I said in my original post, I am using the NFA for the RRA build and was just going to keep the whole RRA kit together with the NFA Poly Lower, I am pretty much decided on that one but after hearing some advice it sounds like my only concerns are gas systems between Carbine and Mid-Length which I dont/didnt know a lot about.

I plan on using the PSA forged Lower with the BCM or PSA build even though from what I have heard from people who actually have used NFA lowers they would hold up fine. I may go with a PSA upper for now just for cost reasons and wait to build a BCM upper until things chill out a little bit.

 

[ObsceneJesster]

As I said in my original post, I am using the NFA for the RRA build and was just going to keep the whole RRA kit together with the NFA Poly Lower, I am pretty much decided on that one but after hearing some advice it sounds like my only concerns are gas systems between Carbine and Mid-Length which I dont/didnt know a lot about.

I plan on using the PSA forged Lower with the BCM or PSA build even though from what I have heard from people who actually have used NFA lowers they would hold up fine. I may go with a PSA upper for now just for cost reasons and wait to build a BCM upper until things chill out a little bit.

The mid gas system will be better on a 16" build if that's what you want. Carbine gas systems will work better on SBR builds.

I'm sure the NFA lowers will hold up just fine. I was just saying that if you are going to spend the money on a BCM upper then you misewell match it up with a good aluminum lower.

 

[vector03]

Someone here posted a picture of a cracked poly lower after 5 years of use. IMO, I would use the poly lower on a dedicated 22 upper to reduce the likelihood of it cracking under use. The reason...SB281 doesn't afford you the opportunity to replace a broken receiver.

 

[hi3cho]

Someone here posted a picture of a cracked poly lower after 5 years of use. IMO, I would use the poly lower on a dedicated 22 upper to reduce the likelihood of it cracking under use. The reason...SB281 doesn't afford you the opportunity to replace a broken receiver.

I have not received a definite answer but I have read a guy who spoke to NFA at a show and the said they would hold up their lifetime warranty post Oct 1 SB281, but I have not heard anyone's position from the peoples republic of Md.

Regardless as I said in my original post, I don't want to argue about the Poly's and I am covering my self with getting two PSA forged lowers also now that I am Designated Collector, so I should be good either way.

Back to my builds, So I think I am going to go with one Mid Length Gas system build as suggested with a 16" barrel. Now for advice with the Carbine Gas, I basically need a 14.5" barrel with a permanently attached Flash Hider to avoid SBR and be greater than 16", Correct?? What makes it permanently attached other than the lower says it, Are uppers only allowed to be sold if they are 14.5" with a flash hider pinned or permanent, in other words if I can buy it am I good in terms of legality or is that something the vendor notify s you of? Again thanks for the help guys.

 

[ObsceneJesster]

You can purchase all the 14.5" barrels you can afford and have them sent directly to your house. You just can't attach them to the upper until you have the flash hider pinned.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[hi3cho]

You can purchase all the 14.5" barrels you can afford and have them sent directly to your house. You just can't attach them to the upper until you have the flash hider pinned.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

Gotcha, how hard is the process to pin the flash hider? When buying a complete upper with a 14.5" barrrel does it change the legality or is it not SBR until it is actually a complete rifle?

 

[ObsceneJesster]

Gotcha, how hard is the process to pin the flash hider? When buying a complete upper with a 14.5" barrrel does it change the legality or is it not SBR until it is actually a complete rifle?

If it is attached to an upper already then I'm sure someone could make the case that you had the intent of quickly attaching it to a receiver. That said, who is going to be entering your house hold and searching your residence.

I know a couple guys who will pin weld the flash hider for you. They will also attach the barrel to the upper for you as well. They don't charge much at all for something like this.

 

[hi3cho]

If it is attached to an upper already then I'm sure someone could make the case that you had the intent of quickly attaching it to a receiver. That said, who is going to be entering your house hold and searching your residence.

I know a couple guys who will pin weld the flash hider for you. They will also attach the barrel to the upper for you as well. They don't charge much at all for something like this.

Cool thanks for the help and I will keep you in mind if I decide on a Carbine 14.5"

 

[hi3cho]

I actually had a change of plan because I found a good deal on an AIM upper, I ordered it Thursday night and it shipped out Friday, it should arrive Tuesday. I am pretty impressed with how fast it is coming with the site saying it could take up to a week or two to ship out.

http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.a..."+CHF+Midlength+MOE+.223/5.56+URG&groupid=586

I think I did pretty good in terms of price and quality and will actually be better and cheaper than the RRA build I was planning on.