Another 80% newbie thread

[Boondock Saint]

A friend of mine is ready to jump head long into the hobby, after having had some hunting shotguns and such. He's safe shopping and looking to get set up to crank out a few AR lowers. Predictably, he chose roughly the worst time possible to make this decision, so he knows he's gonna have to wait a bit and will be out more than a few bucks.

I know very little about the 80% game myself, but from my research it seems fairly simple with the right tools. He's starting from scratch, including needing a router to go with his jig. He's planning to order from 5D Tactical, as they appear to have the shortest wait time for a jig and availability of 80% lowers ($100 for a chunk of aluminum is pushing the bounds of sanity, but that's capitalism and it's his money). End mills strike me as consumable parts, so I've advised him to buy a spare one. Here's his list at this point:

Router Jig PRO https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=40105-MP

Router Jig PRO Toolkit (end mill plus a few drill bits, end mill sized appropriately for router) https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5D-PK300

Spare end mill https://www.5dtactical.com/end-mill-80-lower-jig-p/22000.htm

Some lowers https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=10015-BLK

And of course the router itself https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RT0701C-1-1-Compact-Router/dp/B00E7D3V4S

He's got a vise/bench to which he can clamp the jig/lower while milling.

Daytona Tactical appears to have them for only $75. Any difference in quality/shipping time?

Is he missing anything? Any tips for a newbie? Like I said, I know practically knowing about the procedure, but I'm "the gun guy," so I'm trying to walk him through it as best I can.

I'll break his heart later regarding availability of LPKs, complete HBAR uppers worth a damn that don't cost a mortgage payment, ammo, etc. For now, he wants to get milling ASAP before Biden kicks down his door.

Thanks for your help, folks!

 

[StantonCree]

Buy dewalt router.

I already played this “which router” game.

 

[teratos]

A friend of mine is ready to jump head long into the hobby, after having had some hunting shotguns and such. He's safe shopping and looking to get set up to crank out a few AR lowers. Predictably, he chose roughly the worst time possible to make this decision, so he knows he's gonna have to wait a bit and will be out more than a few bucks.

I know very little about the 80% game myself, but from my research it seems fairly simple with the right tools. He's starting from scratch, including needing a router to go with his jig. He's planning to order from 5D Tactical, as they appear to have the shortest wait time for a jig and availability of 80% lowers ($100 for a chunk of aluminum is pushing the bounds of sanity, but that's capitalism and it's his money). End mills strike me as consumable parts, so I've advised him to buy a spare one. Here's his list at this point:

Router Jig PRO https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=40105-MP

Router Jig PRO Toolkit (end mill plus a few drill bits, end mill sized appropriately for router) https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=5D-PK300

Spare end mill https://www.5dtactical.com/end-mill-80-lower-jig-p/22000.htm

Some lowers https://www.5dtactical.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=10015-BLK

And of course the router itself https://www.amazon.com/Makita-RT0701C-1-1-Compact-Router/dp/B00E7D3V4S

He's got a vise/bench to which he can clamp the jig/lower while milling.

Daytona Tactical appears to have them for only $75. Any difference in quality/shipping time?

Is he missing anything? Any tips for a newbie? Like I said, I know practically knowing about the procedure, but I'm "the gun guy," so I'm trying to walk him through it as best I can.

I'll break his heart later regarding availability of LPKs, HBAR uppers, ammo, etc. For now, he wants to get milling before Biden kicks down his door.

Thanks for your help, folks!

If he can find lowers, call me. I will tell him what bits to order and I have the rest covered. Look for cerro Forge if possible. They have the keyhole forge Mark.

 

[wilcam47]

Makita works fine, use max speed so wear earplugs. The 5d is way to go. Just make sure everything is tight. I think they say something about bit chatter if you take too deep cuts so take 1/2 depth marks and you do ok. Just keep the router parallel with the direction of cutting. I vacuum shavings every depth move

 

[teratos]

Makita works fine, use max speed so wear earplugs. The 5d is way to go. Just make sure everything is tight. I think they say something about bit chatter if you take too deep cuts so take 1/2 depth marks and you do ok. Just keep the router parallel with the direction of cutting. I vacuum shavings every depth move

All of this.

 

[Bertfish]

Makita works fine, use max speed so wear earplugs. The 5d is way to go. Just make sure everything is tight. I think they say something about bit chatter if you take too deep cuts so take 1/2 depth marks and you do ok. Just keep the router parallel with the direction of cutting. I vacuum shavings every depth move

My buddy that does it a lot uses this exact combination of equipment

 

[StantonCree]

I had a makita that wouldn’t hold the bit. May have been Bosch.

 

[awdnick2986]

I have yet to complete these but I did get a few of these matrix lowers https://www.matrixarms.com/product/matrix-arms-ar15-80-lower-receiver/. I think brownells had them cheaper at one point but they are in stock at Matrix’s site. I researched them and heard nothing but good reviews.

 

[bigjoegood1]

I use a Makita as well, no issues. It's only used to mill lowers so it has a fairly easy life.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Boondock Saint]

Many thanks for the replies.

Buy dewalt router.

I already played this “which router” game.

I had a makita that wouldn’t hold the bit. May have been Bosch.

I'm a bit of a DeWalt fanboi, so it wouldn't take much to get me to spend the extra $60-100 on a larger router that matches basically all of my power tools.

With that said, is it possible that the end mill and router spindle weren't compatible? Then again, if the mill/spindle didn't match, I expect they wouldn't attach in the first place, as opposed to "fitting" but not getting tight enough for use.

Many is the time that I've cussed equipment before realizing the problem existed between my ears!

If he can find lowers, call me. I will tell him what bits to order and I have the rest covered. Look for cerro Forge if possible. They have the keyhole forge Mark.

You are the man, thank you. What is "cerro forge?" A manufacturer, coating, password to the shipping container, all of the above?

Makita works fine, use max speed so wear earplugs. The 5d is way to go. Just make sure everything is tight. I think they say something about bit chatter if you take too deep cuts so take 1/2 depth marks and you do ok. Just keep the router parallel with the direction of cutting. I vacuum shavings every depth move

That seems like a great plan to me. Just like anything, I expect the first lower that he/we finish might take a while, but that's fine if it's done properly. It seems idiot proof with enough patience and the right tools.

 

[brianns]

I did one using the 5D Tactical jig. The depth gage shows(suggests) 1/8" increments. I guess you could go deeper with the passes depending on your comfort level and the ability of the tools. Sure its more steps but less chatter. I've only done one but it was very easy.

 

[wilcam47]

Many thanks for the replies.





I'm a bit of a DeWalt fanboi, so it wouldn't take much to get me to spend the extra $60-100 on a larger router that matches basically all of my power tools.

With that said, is it possible that the end mill and router spindle weren't compatible? Then again, if the mill/spindle didn't match, I expect they wouldn't attach in the first place, as opposed to "fitting" but not getting tight enough for use.

Many is the time that I've cussed equipment before realizing the problem existed between my ears!



You are the man, thank you. What is "cerro forge?" A manufacturer, coating, password to the shipping container, all of the above?



That seems like a great plan to me. Just like anything, I expect the first lower that he/we finish might take a while, but that's fine if it's done properly. It seems idiot proof with enough patience and the right tools.

One thing on the 5d jig is the final hole for the trigger, it says to do all at once but ive had a slight divit in the hole where it dug in too deep. Its not bad and affects nothing except my meticulous nature i get to the end and its messed up slightly. My thought is maybe do half the depth of the final hole then do the rest.

 

[Rockzilla]

The Dewalt 611 is recommended by the 3.
All the jigs work, Use the Dewalt 611, Have the selection of jigs..

5D Tactical revised version skeleton side plates "fiber material" Router plate
was aluminum top plate, they changed it to "new improved" fiber top plate and didn't update the
web site (eventually they did) "pissed a lot of people off.
Have the solid side and aluminum top plate.

80% Arms Easy Gen 3, skeleton side plates, aluminum router plate.

Modulus Arms Jig, Latest has skeleton side plates, aluminum router top plate
before it had solid side plates.

Also look at how each cuts the pocket. Take the hash marks and go half that, makes smoother
cuts, less chatter, A-9 or WD40 works good. keep it clean and vacuum, go slow, no hurry, plenty
of fluid.. Tips:when turning router on hold on tightly, when turning off wait for it to completely stop.
A "foot operated switch" may be helpful. Wear gloves, PPG and a long sleeve shirt. also be aware
those "chips" go everywhere. you can / should have a partition around your set-up to contain the
chips the best you can. I do not try to set a "world record" Once again just advice take it slow and
half hash marks, measure twice, mill once....and a good, decent vise, bolted down or attached to
something that won't give. Use a 6" milling vise here, one heavy "sob"

Some videos:
Jig Comparisons all 3.
https://youtu.be/_vNIThhpGI4

80% Arms Easy Jig Gen 3 Multi Platform Use Review
https://youtu.be/ZGjax4E4iqM

Modulus Arms Router Jig Extreme - Unboxing with an Engineer
https://youtu.be/-nKielIc5Uk

80% Arms Easy Jig Gen 3 vs 5D Tactical Universal - 80% Lower Jig Comparison
https://youtu.be/NALWlk8yWQ8


and a little incite to all 3 of them.
talks about the 3 jig makers
https://youtu.be/ERQyJ4VFaDQ


-Rock

 

[Muleskinner]

There is a hole in that jig to connect a shop vac but it's for the small shopvac hose so you will need an adapter if you have the 3 inch hose. I also recommend connecting it to the jig so you can remove it easily. The lower is going to need to be vacuumed along with the guide plate between passes with the router and it's easiest done with the same shop vac. if you leave aluminum chips in the guides it might cause issues.

 

[Stein79]

Anyone find a work around for the metal "sleeve" that fits into the grip and has a pin go through it and the back part of the trigger mechanism?
The (3) that I have do not line up with any of the frame holes to install the pins. The pins will slide in without that metal piece. I've contacted P80 and they basically told me tough luck.

 

[teratos]

Anyone find a work around for the metal "sleeve" that fits into the grip and has a pin go through it and the back part of the trigger mechanism?
The (3) that I have do not line up with any of the frame holes to install the pins. The pins will slide in without that metal piece. I've contacted P80 and they basically told me tough luck.

None of mine have ever lined up. I file the hole in the metal until it fits.

 

[Stein79]

None of mine have ever lined up. I file the hole in the metal until it fits.

Oh, that is actually a bit of a relief. Do you mean that you file the metal or grip?

 

[teratos]

Oh, that is actually a bit of a relief. Do you mean that you file the metal or grip?

The metal.