10mm

[chrisflhtc]

I have gotten 1400fps with longshot in a .40 out of my CX4. However I backed off a bit as its hard on the action.
C

 

[Magnumite]

Yes.

thank you for the response

 

[jimbobborg]

thank you for the response

BTW, I also haven't cronoed it from my 6.5" Ruger Blackhawk yet, as I purchased that after the range session. Next time I have a decent weekend open and can get to Clark Brothers, I'll take them all out to test this load out.

Current list of 10mms:

Dan Wesson Silverback
SA 6" TRP Operator (wish they still made these)
Ruger GP100 3"
SA XDM10 4.5" (wish they still made these)
Ruger Blackhawk 6.5"
S&W 610 4"


I'd like to get the 5" Ruger GP100 and the 6" S&W 610, along with a commander bobtail 1911 (for carry). After running the Sig 180gr JHPs and FMJs in the GP100 during a Steel Challenge match, I'm not getting another shorty 10mm. They're not conducive for fast follow up shots.

 

[Magnumite]

BTW, I also haven't cronoed it from my 6.5" Ruger Blackhawk yet, as I purchased that after the range session. Next time I have a decent weekend open and can get to Clark Brothers, I'll take them all out to test this load out.

Current list of 10mms:

Dan Wesson Silverback
SA 6" TRP Operator (wish they still made these)
Ruger GP100 3"
SA XDM10 4.5" (wish they still made these)
Ruger Blackhawk 6.5"
S&W 610 4"


I'd like to get the 5" Ruger GP100 and the 6" S&W 610, along with a commander bobtail 1911 (for carry). After running the Sig 180gr JHPs and FMJs in the GP100 during a Steel Challenge match, I'm not getting another shorty 10mm. They're not conducive for fast follow up shots.

Your information is very useful and appreciated. Your posts have always suggested credible info. My concern is 6” minimum barrel requirement for Maryland deer hunting. I have a 45 Super which develops similar velocities. My estimation I can safely handload similar energies as your 10mm loads from its 6” barrel. I will probably use some shortened Rowland brass if I really need to push it (45 Super velocities are developed at about 75% of the pressure 10mm runs in). I have good case support and 45 Super brass. The Rowland brass should give me a little piece of mind.

Edit to add: 460 Rowland and 45 Super brass are the same except for length. The metallurgy for both is different than 45 ACP brass.

 

[Squaregrouper]

Your information is very useful and appreciated. Your posts have always suggested credible info. My concern is 6” minimum barrel requirement for Maryland deer hunting. I have a 45 Super which develops similar velocities. My estimation I can safely handload similar energies as your 10mm loads from its 6” barrel. I will probably use some shortened Rowland brass if I really need to push it (45 Super velocities are developed at about 75% of the pressure 10mm runs in). I have good case support and 45 Super brass. The Rowland brass should give me a little piece of mind.

Edit to add: 460 Rowland and 45 Super brass are the same except for length. The metallurgy for both is different than 45 ACP brass.

My "Glock" model 40 has a slighly longer than 6" barrel and can easily reach minimum Ft/lb requirements in Maryland.
P80 frame converted to a stripped G21sf frame when new laws enacted (FFL employee, so they were cheaper than engraving my P80. So many used Glocks were stripped for P80 builds that there are piles of serialized frames out there for peanuts.

 

[Magnumite]

My "Glock" model 40 has a slighly longer than 6" barrel and can easily reach minimum Ft/lb requirements in Maryland.
P80 frame converted to a stripped G21sf frame when new laws enacted (FFL employee, so they were cheaper than engraving my P80. So many used Glocks were stripped for P80 builds that there are piles of serialized frames out there for peanuts.

Good to know. Thanks.

I was curious about the P80 builds…mostly because the angle of some of the grip frames…less rake. Anyway, the P80 craze jacked the Glock parts prices up so high I couldn’t see the sense of it. One day maybe I’ll do the grip angle mod on my Gen4 G17.

 

[Squaregrouper]

Good to know. Thanks.

I was curious about the P80 builds…mostly because the angle of some of the grip frames…less rake. Anyway, the P80 craze jacked the Glock parts prices up so high I couldn’t see the sense of it. One day maybe I’ll do the grip angle mod on my Gen4 G17.

Yup. It didn't take sellers long to realize stripping a used G23 and selling the parts was much more lucrative than selling the unwanted pistol. As long as the stripped frame stayed in their bound book, no laws broken and a lot more money in their wallets.

 

[Biggfoot44]

I was reading Magnumite as being concerned about the arbitrary 6 inches , not the power.

Hence , why I would doing my Handgun Hunting out of my friend's place in Virginia , where it's 4 inch .

 

[Buster Brown]

The SIG Elite ball is the only practice round I've seen for 10mm that's not super expensive or 40s&w power. You really need to handload for 10mm to be worth shooting alot. I've chronoed some of my handloads @ 1300+fps with 180grn fmj out of a G20. With the right powder 40s&w is not too far behind but not many guns in 40s&w will withstand the abuse.

 

[Magnumite]

I was reading Magnumite as being concerned about the arbitrary 6 inches , not the power.

Hence , why I would doing my Handgun Hunting out of my friend's place in Virginia , where it's 4 inch .

I have a 5.5” Redhawk in 44 Magnum. Also have a 7.5” Super Blackhawk in 44 Mag as well. I don’t want to carry the 7.5” if I can help it. The 5.5” does not meet state regulations. Nor doesbthe 5” 10mm.

I was curious about the hype about a 6” 1911. I must say with Underwood hot stuff it is a pleasant shooting experience. Plus I was itchin’ to build one.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Same way that 4 5/8 Rugers and 5 and 4 inch S&W .44s meet power , but not Inches . ( And some more , but those are most obvious that are OK in VA, WV , and most other States ).

 

[Magnumite]

I wasn’t worried about the 6” length…that is mandated im Maryland. Many manuals give velocities from 5” barrels. My query of your load velocities was to estimate what I could get from that 6” barrel. I have the components to develop a load so its off to the races…

 

[jimbobborg]

It's funny how barrels are measured. For a revolver, the actual barrel is measured, not including the cylinder length. A semi-auto it's the length of the barrel, including the chamber, so muzzle to the breech face. A bullet from a 4" revolver travels the same distance as a bullet from a 5" 1911, maybe more but as some of the gases escape from the cylinder gap, I get roughly the same speeds from the two. Just remember, a polymer coated lead bullet actually leaves the muzzle faster than a plain lead bullet, and it doesn't leave any leading in the barrel unlike a plain lead bullet. I noticed this when I was loading my 9mm STI, I could use slighly less powder with the polymer coated bullets and still make power facter for competitions.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Yup .

In Individual guns of either flavor , velocity can vary due to chamber dimensions, bore dimensions , and b/c gap in Revolvers . But that is a good rule of thumb . ( With dissimilar ctgs of similar bore size , the Case Expansion Ratio comes into play also .)

It's a niche thing . But with magnum revolver loads with full case of slow powders , coated bullets can sometimes be TOO slippery . Those loads need substantial bullet tension to get consistently complete powder ignition, and a slippery polymer coating with lower coefficient of friction can start moving too soon before sufficient pressure build up . ( They'll still go bang safely , but velocities will be down , and velocity variation larger .)

 

[Magnumite]

Yup .

In Individual guns of either flavor , velocity can vary due to chamber dimensions, bore dimensions , and b/c gap in Revolvers . But that is a good rule of thumb . ( With dissimilar ctgs of similar bore size , the Case Expansion Ratio comes into play also .)

It's a niche thing . But with magnum revolver loads with full case of slow powders , coated bullets can sometimes be TOO slippery . Those loads need substantial bullet tension to get consistently complete powder ignition, and a slippery polymer coating with lower coefficient of friction can start moving too soon before sufficient pressure build up . ( They'll still go bang safely , but velocities will be down , and velocity variation larger .)

And it is measurable. I heavy crimp every 44 Magnum round I produce. Also I don’t use plated bullets nor heavily used brass for heavy loads since the bullets are slippery and the brass has lost its resilience (big time bullet cteep). For low level loads not a problem.

 

[Biggfoot44]

Or medium level loads with fast to medium powder . But compressed 4227 or 296 , you need tight neck and heavy crimp .

 

[Magnumite]

Or medium level loads with fast to medium powder . But compressed 4227 or 296 , you need tight neck and heavy crimp .

 

[jimbobborg]

Yup .

In Individual guns of either flavor , velocity can vary due to chamber dimensions, bore dimensions , and b/c gap in Revolvers . But that is a good rule of thumb . ( With dissimilar ctgs of similar bore size , the Case Expansion Ratio comes into play also .)

It's a niche thing . But with magnum revolver loads with full case of slow powders , coated bullets can sometimes be TOO slippery . Those loads need substantial bullet tension to get consistently complete powder ignition, and a slippery polymer coating with lower coefficient of friction can start moving too soon before sufficient pressure build up . ( They'll still go bang safely , but velocities will be down , and velocity variation larger .)

I've run into this with a .357 load, but in my case, the bullet moved forward out of the case and stopped the cylinder from moving. The first shot was actually pretty good, but I'm going to have to rethink using them in magnums. Even with a good crimp, the bullets jumped forward. Didn't have that problem with the .38s I used earlier. Now that I have a .357 lever gun again, I might revisit this .357 load.