Mobile 1 synthetic??

I'm Leary of trolls... but I'm curious. Can you use mobile 1 synthetic instead of gun greese?

Right now I'm just using "gunzilla" but I want to make sure my "assault weapons" are taken care of properly.

Search on "mobil"
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=166126

Yes, it does.

I got super butthurt because Clandestine told me I was wasting all my moniez

he was right right a thousand times right.

Now all I use is ballistol for cleaning, mobil 1 for general lube, and milcomme 2500 and t25b for oil/grease roles respectively when I want to coniditon the metal with teflon or need it to have super crazy performance. That's all- all the rest I gave away.

You'll be amazed, the more you use the mobil 1, the less carbon will want to stick to the metal, I guess because of detergent or something?

All I know is I dip all my phosphate BCGs before reassembly after cleaning and literally every single one of my guns runs the better for it, and where I used to have to pry the hard carbon off with a piece of aluminum or brass of the bolt tail, now it barely adheres at all- go figure, a lubricant made to keep carbon from adhering to your engine will keep carbon from adhering to hot metal surfaces- SHOCKER!

Seriously though, I felt like an idiot for not realizing it sooner.

I run it. My guns are just slow running engines...

Pretty much all I use anymore.

On a related note, I've always believed that most of the "Miracle Shyte" products were just marketing hokum. Here's a place with recipes for tons of different firearms related products.

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Besides mixing up my own batch of Ed's Red, I also found a recipe similar to the one for "Slick Stuff". A buddy and I did them together and a single batch gave plenty for a very loooooooooooong time!

JoeR

I use ENOS instead of Mobil 1 but I'm goofy like that. It's actually a higher level of pure synthetic.

I've used Mobile 1 for years on all my my guns and a couple of my AR's see 3k+ rounds per year. I tend to run mine wetter since it makes them easier to clean.

For my guns I use Rotella where oil goes and random wheel bearing grease wherever grease is supposed to go.

I use Mobile 1, but recently have been told that atf (automatic transmission fluid) works better. I haven't tried it yet.

Thats interesting. atf can act as a detergent. I don't know if Trans fluid would provide the same lubricity or protection. I stopped using Mobil 1 in the cars after reading they changed up the formula. Now I use castrol. Either is good stuff though.

Good to hear. I already have a few gallons of it in the basement

I'm going to start using it. I always have extra after oil changes, so it's a perfect use for it

In general all of your products are Petroleum based oil is oil just a different formula of additives sorta of like Coke and Pepsi comparison...ATF same thing though designed to endure pressures like Hydraulic fluids...in engines your weight is important not brand...Weapons aren't closed "systems" just basic friction issues and environment..

Mobil 1 0W-40 is all I've used for the last several years.

This article got me rethinking what kind of gun oil to use:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

After all his discussion he recommends:
1. Lubriplate FMO-AW (made for lubricating food processors)
2. NyOil (like ATF, but no odor, red dye, nontoxic)
3. Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

Grease recommendation: Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease

On motor oils:

Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Vavoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. In addition, their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren't a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! If you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a specialty "gun oil.”)

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Here is a snippet from my AR Class about lubricants.

There’s a ton of wonder lubes, cleaners, and protectants on the market. Many will say how great they smell, how they are safer to use and some go as far as saying they can be consumed safety. Some will say how they are natural, or water based and therefore “safer”. That’s all fine and dandy but as soon as your gun is fired with “hippie” lube it’s contaminated with carbon and lead. When you shoot a gun you’re going to breathe nasty stuff. You will live, just wash your hands before you eat or drink. At some point you have to clean the firearm, so the “edible, natural, non-toxic” pitch is sort of moot wouldn’t you say? People say, well I use it so I don’t have to use gloves when I clean or lube my guns. Well, you should anyway, whether its “hippie lube” or “capitalist pig blood”. What many fail to realize is organic based lubricants will break down and can become corrosive over time. Then you will hear people say how things like “don’t use Motor Oil, it is a carcinogen”. That’s not true; petroleum products are not harmful until they are contaminated. Used motor oil is unsafe, not fresh motor oil. Fresh Crisco is safe, dump some lead residue and carbon in it, and it is no longer safe. If your lube says you need to use a hair dryer, have to measure its application, pray, or do special dances it’s probably ********. If too much of a “super lube” is bad then the lube itself might be bad. If the lube turns to goo when you mix it with regular gun lubes it’s not really that practical is it? You shouldn’t have to worry about using another product reacting poorly when used in place of “pixie dust hippie lube”. There is no one product that does everything well, if you use a CLP it’s not going to be the best lube, best cleaner, and the best protectant but it will work to keep an AR running. I prefer to use several products that are well suited for their task, are easy to use and apply, and don’t break the bank.

I use:
Wipe Out Foam or Patch Out Liquid Bore Cleaners. Tactical Advantage is specifically designed for the AR15 Bore, Chamber, Barrel Extension, Gas System, and can be diluted with water to clean the Bolt Carrier when you are maintaining your AR15. The above bore cleaners eliminate the need for any brushes, acids, ammonia, and abrasives. All you need are a Rod, Jag, and Patches. The stuff isn’t harmful to your barrel, but it can damage bare aluminum and oil based wood finishes. Since it can affect bare aluminum I suggest isolating the solvent by using a Receiver/Bore Guide equipped with an O-Ring.

For Lubricant I use Synthetic Motor Oil and Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease. I have yet to find a more cost effective option per ounce. I do apply the Grease sparingly, but I use heavy amounts of Synthetic Motor Oil. The down side is Motor Oil is NOT a good protectant. To supplement the product Barricade or G96 mixes well with it. G96 smells great if that’s your thing.

For Barrel Assembly you can use Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease, but the proper product is Aeroshell 33MS.

For an EXTERNAL Protectant WD40 is pretty darn good, WD40 Specialist is even better. I suggest you only use it on the outside of the firearm though and blow off any excess. Contrary to popular opinion WD40 will gum up. Barricade is a good protectant and good lube. It comes out as a fine mist and is easy to apply without a rag. G96 does a good job too and smells better to most. All 3 products will safely coexist with Synthetic Motor Oil

protegeV said:

Good to hear. I already have a few gallons of it in the basement

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Is this how you get your Mobile1? lol

These days I stick with Royal Purple: gun oil, Maxfilm lube, UPG grease. Ballistol to protect elsewhere.