sailskidrive
Legalize the Constitution
Hmmm... I've always used steel until I recently bought a set of Night Force rings that are made of some kind of mystery material.
Bedding a Scope Base?
- Thread starter Semper Noctem
- Start date
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Hmmm... I've always used steel until I recently bought a set of Night Force rings that are made of some kind of mystery material.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
With steel rings, you remove the coating and again are subject to corrosion.
sailskidrive
Legalize the Constitution
I used marine grade 3M 5200 to bed mine... 
(Seriously)
(Seriously)
byf43
SCSC Life/NRA Patron Life
If you need to measure any gap(s), and can't get a feeler gauge between the mount and receiver, maybe this will help:
#20 (aka/ 20 lb.) paper (notebook paper) = .003" -.004"
#9 (aka/ 9 lb, otherwise known as "Onion Skin") = .0025" -.003"
#110 (aka/ 110 lb) otherwise known as "Index" = .009"
Matchbook covers usually 'mic out' to be .007" -.009"
In all my years of messin' around with firearms, I've never had to lap scope rings.
Until recently, I've used Leupold mounts/rings exclusively.
I've used Warne 'standard' and "QD" rings on a couple of firearms, and they've been 'good-to-go', also.
#20 (aka/ 20 lb.) paper (notebook paper) = .003" -.004"
#9 (aka/ 9 lb, otherwise known as "Onion Skin") = .0025" -.003"
#110 (aka/ 110 lb) otherwise known as "Index" = .009"
Matchbook covers usually 'mic out' to be .007" -.009"
In all my years of messin' around with firearms, I've never had to lap scope rings.
Until recently, I've used Leupold mounts/rings exclusively.
I've used Warne 'standard' and "QD" rings on a couple of firearms, and they've been 'good-to-go', also.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
5200 is flexible, not solid.
sailskidrive
Legalize the Constitution
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Not every knows. 
5200 is great stuff though.
5200 is great stuff though.
Major03
Ultimate Member
Yes...and no. Yes, in that you don't want to put ANY torque on the screws that are aligned in area you're bedding (usually the rear on Remingtons). No, in that if you don't put any torque on them and they are just there to block the bedding compound from the screw holes then you can't bend the mount.
The ONLY reason to have the back screws there at all is to have them block the screw holes. You could use silly putty in the holes...but I've found that putting release agent on the screws themselves and threading them through enough to align them BUT NOT enough to put ANY torque on them makes for a cleaner bedding job and easier clean up.
Again, YMMV...
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
You were not clear previously.
I full the holes with floor wax (also used as release agent). But I put one screw in loosly to make sure I don't have the mount angled off axis.
I full the holes with floor wax (also used as release agent). But I put one screw in loosly to make sure I don't have the mount angled off axis.
Major03
Ultimate Member
I thought I was...
11b) Next, start the second front screw the same way, only one thread. Then start the two back screws with only one thread. Now, with a digit on the front of the base let the wet epoxy down onto the reciever, Don't put ANY pressure on the back with your fingers. Use a driver and very slowly and carefully turn the front screws down until you feel the very first sign of it hitting bottom. There is NO torque at all here so don't try to actually tighten them. Just let them hit bottom and stop.
11c) Next turn the rear screws in a little so that the screw heads are into thier countersinks but DO NOT bottom them out. With your gap on the rear of the base being what you are trying to fix you don't want ANY stress induced there. All you are doing with the rear screws is making sure of their alignment in their countersinks.
Regardless...you are absolutely correct in that inducing ANY stress during the bedding process is counterproductive and will only result in a waste of time.
11b) Next, start the second front screw the same way, only one thread. Then start the two back screws with only one thread. Now, with a digit on the front of the base let the wet epoxy down onto the reciever, Don't put ANY pressure on the back with your fingers. Use a driver and very slowly and carefully turn the front screws down until you feel the very first sign of it hitting bottom. There is NO torque at all here so don't try to actually tighten them. Just let them hit bottom and stop.
11c) Next turn the rear screws in a little so that the screw heads are into thier countersinks but DO NOT bottom them out. With your gap on the rear of the base being what you are trying to fix you don't want ANY stress induced there. All you are doing with the rear screws is making sure of their alignment in their countersinks.
Regardless...you are absolutely correct in that inducing ANY stress during the bedding process is counterproductive and will only result in a waste of time.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
Much clearer.
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