A2 flash hider removal

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  • Sirex

    Powered by natural gas
    Oct 30, 2010
    10,454
    Westminster, MD
    Is a barrel vice required to removed the A2 flash hider on a AR, cause this is on tight. Has a crush washer, and I tried some PB blaster, and some heat and it won't budge. I don't want to crank too hard and risk doing something to the barrel/upper receiver. Thanks
     

    Combloc

    Stop Negassing me!!!!!
    Nov 10, 2010
    7,275
    In a House
    You do need a barrel vice. You also need a perfectly fitted wrench or you'll mar the finish pretty bad.
     

    Sirex

    Powered by natural gas
    Oct 30, 2010
    10,454
    Westminster, MD
    You do need a barrel vice. You also need a perfectly fitted wrench or you'll mar the finish pretty bad.

    Yeah, I don't have an AR specific wrench, just a generic wrench that is a bit wider than the flat spots on the flash hider. Guess I will order one.

    Does the barrel have to come out of the upper receiver, or just remove the hand guard? Thx
     
    It really shouldn't be on that tight. I've never had an issue removing one without a vise. Lock the stock between your feet and twist..

    Maybe you just need to put down your purse and put some muscle into it?

    Haha jk. It could be over torqued or some kind of adhesive was used.
     

    Nanook

    F-notso-NG-anymore
    Depending on finished barrel length, is there a chance it is silver soldered on there to permanently bring it over the minimum legal length?

    If so, might want to check with your local 'smith to prevent any legal and/or shot dog problems.
     

    danb

    dont be a dumbass
    Feb 24, 2013
    22,704
    google is your friend, I am not.
    If its a billet/alum receiver, i recommend a reaction rod, otherwise you could bend the upper. No need to remove the barrel, beither the reaction rod or receiver block require it. Plus if the FH is on tight, think how tight the barrel nut is.
     

    John from MD

    American Patriot
    MDS Supporter
    May 12, 2005
    23,010
    Socialist State of Maryland
    Since you got it second hand, you should check it over well to insure it is not pinned. In my experience, if it is Loctited, a heat gun and constant pressure will break it loose without too much torque. If it has rock set, then putting it into a pot of boiling water will break it loose without too much torque.
     

    DutchV

    Ultimate Member
    Jul 8, 2012
    4,735
    You want to use a barrel vise for muzzle devices. Otherwise there's a risk of breaking the upper or the barrel index pin.

    I might also consider cutting a slot down the side of the flash hider with a Dremel cut-off wheel, if it's really tight.
     

    Sirex

    Powered by natural gas
    Oct 30, 2010
    10,454
    Westminster, MD
    Depending on finished barrel length, is there a chance it is silver soldered on there to permanently bring it over the minimum legal length?

    If so, might want to check with your local 'smith to prevent any legal and/or shot dog problems.

    It is a 16" barrel, I don't see any solder or welds.
     

    engineerbrian

    JMB fan club
    Sep 3, 2010
    10,150
    Fredneck
    I bought a rifle second hand a while back and tried changing the muzzle device too, but it was so damn tight I couldnt get it off with everything I threw at it.

    I ended up taking it to a gunsmith and even using his high dollar barrel vise, heat and a big wrench it gave him trouble too. He was just about to give up on loosening it up and was going to cut it off when it finally popped loose. Theres no good reason that I can think of to have a muzzle device on that tight.
     

    Bountied

    Ultimate Member
    Apr 6, 2012
    7,156
    Pasadena
    It really shouldn't be on that tight. I've never had an issue removing one without a vise. Lock the stock between your feet and twist..

    Maybe you just need to put down your purse and put some muscle into it?

    Haha jk. It could be over torqued or some kind of adhesive was used.

    How can you quantify too tight? Unless you know the Nm or Ft/Lbs it's subjective.

    Before I had vice and a upper receiver block I would put the whole rifle in between my legs using the lower receiver and grip as leverage to loosen a muzzle device.

    Get a vice block of some kind and put some force on it. It could be that the person went one more revolution on the crush washer to get alignment and it's on there pretty good. Maybe they used a thread locker. Either way get something you can lock the upper receiver into a vice and use the appropriate force to get it off.

    Also look to see if it was pinned. That could cause issues.
     

    lazarus

    Ultimate Member
    Jun 23, 2015
    13,752
    How can you quantify too tight? Unless you know the Nm or Ft/Lbs it's subjective.

    Before I had vice and a upper receiver block I would put the whole rifle in between my legs using the lower receiver and grip as leverage to loosen a muzzle device.

    Get a vice block of some kind and put some force on it. It could be that the person went one more revolution on the crush washer to get alignment and it's on there pretty good. Maybe they used a thread locker. Either way get something you can lock the upper receiver into a vice and use the appropriate force to get it off.

    Also look to see if it was pinned. That could cause issues.

    For attaching things I use a receiver block. Or removing things I attached. Never had a muzzle device come loose with zero thread locker and maybe 30lbs of torque or so. If it was taking way more torque than I thought reasonable I’d hit it with a heat gun or try the boiling water thing. Still no go and I’d get a reaction rod.
     

    Art3

    Eqinsu Ocha
    MDS Supporter
    Jan 30, 2015
    13,335
    Harford County
    I am a strong believer (now) in using some sort of appropriate fixture to secure the upper whenever torque is applied.
     

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