Stealth Arms 80% 1911 No Mill Needed w/ Promo Code

[Magnumite]

The ejector hole is undrilled? I didn't notice

Just use the file to fit the ejector leg. It doesn't take much

 

[Jaybeez]

The ejector hole is undrilled? I didn't notice

Just use the file to fit the ejector leg. It doesn't take much

ejector pin hole is drilled. i think he just wants to install the ejector and drill the leg.

 

[Atlasarmory]

ejector pin hole is drilled. i think he just wants to install the ejector and drill the leg.

Correct SR

 

[Boar13A]

Tag

 

[Magnumite]

Just use a file to fit the notch on the ejector leg

 

[jjones88]

alright first experience fitting a thumb safety and somehow it's gotten stuck...

doing some research looks like Wilson (the one I happened to buy...) thumb safeties have done this to others:

http://forum.m1911.org/archive/index.php/t-24841.html

unlike them though, I cannot get this thing to budge, hammer cocked or not. Any ideas or is it time to just destroy this safety to save the frame??

 

[pilotguy299]

alright first experience fitting a thumb safety and somehow it's gotten stuck...

doing some research looks like Wilson (the one I happened to buy...) thumb safeties have done this to others:

http://forum.m1911.org/archive/index.php/t-24841.html

unlike them though, I cannot get this thing to budge, hammer cocked or not. Any ideas or is it time to just destroy this safety to save the frame??

have you tried taking the rest of the gun apart? Just tapping out the sear and hammer pin (if you can) might loosen things up enough for you to get it out. I'd also consider taking out the mainspring housing, and the sear spring to see if those take any tension off of the parts.

 

[John from MD]

drilling is tricky. the ejector is hard. the aluminum framer is softer, and the drill bit wants to walk around the steel leg.

i filed the leg a little after marking it, in order to get it started, installed the ejector, and then drilled with whatever bit from my numbered $20 harbor freight set fit in the hole.

You will be better off to file the pin recess on the ejector leg rather than trying to drill it in an aluminum frame. A round needle file works just fine.

John

 

[jjones88]

have you tried taking the rest of the gun apart? Just tapping out the sear and hammer pin (if you can) might loosen things up enough for you to get it out. I'd also consider taking out the mainspring housing, and the sear spring to see if those take any tension off of the parts.

I've tried with and without the mainspring housing.... moving the hammer in every direction. That thing is STUCK.

No idea what happened, I fitted the safety to the frame. Then I fitted it to the sear. It was moving freely so I decided to do my safety checks so I installed the hammer, life was good, installed the mainspring housing, still good. Put the slide on to check trigger operation, fired once and next thing I know the next three hours are spent trying to free the safety....

I've hit the sear pin and hammer pins hoping to get the thumb safety moving but still no go. It wiggles very little so I know its really stuck.

 

[Yoshi]

Cool project! You have peeked my interest... Why did you choose Stealth over Tactical Machining or Rudius?

 

[Jaybeez]

Cool project! You have peeked my interest... Why did you choose Stealth over Tactical Machining or Rudius?

because the stealth phantom jig makes it so foolproof

 

[Atlasarmory]

Just finished my build using the phantom jig and a tactical machining frame cutting the barrel seat on the steel frame was pretty rough but it did it. Finished it with brownells oxpho blue after polishing the frame it turned out real nice but the cold blue is already starting to thin on some of the edges. I'm sure its been asked before but anyone know if there is any way to have a receiver with no S# professionally hot blued ? Or would that be illegal for someone else to apply a finish ? Technically refinish

 

[John from MD]

You can ship it to a gunsmith and he can ship it back to you when finished. No serial number or being a home build is not an issue. I have done this numerous times from both ends.

John

 

[Atlasarmory]

You can ship it to a gunsmith and he can ship it back to you when finished. No serial number or being a home build is not an issue. I have done this numerous times from both ends.

John

That's great. Could you recommend anyone ?

 

[John from MD]

Sorry but the two guys I used to use are not doing bluing anymore. I think the issue is with the EPA and the Hazmat requirements.

John

 

[j_h_smith]

You can ship it to a gunsmith and he can ship it back to you when finished. No serial number or being a home build is not an issue. I have done this numerous times from both ends.

John

How does the gunsmith log in the firearm if there is no serial number? Just curious.

 

[John from MD]

All you do is enter NSN in the block. Bound book info is not too scientific. In one block, it asks for the manufacturer or importer. You would be surprised to see what people put in there!

I have seen Russia for Chinese SKS's, Russia for Westinghouse 1891 Mosin Nagant rifles, Astra pistols entered as Colt, early Berettas entered as Taurus and on and on.

In years gone by, if the ATF auditor found something entered incorrectly, they would let you correct and you would both have a good laugh. Today, government regulators forget who pays their salaries and are out to put people out of work.

John

 

[WeaponsCollector]

A problem I'm having is the hammer follows the slide and doesn't lock back but it will lock back manually.

 

[John from MD]

Here are a few checks to perform.

Hold the trigger back in a normal hold and pull back the slide and let go. The hammer should not fall.
Release the trigger and you should feel and hear a click as the disconnector engages the sear.
Release the grip safety and pull the trigger. The hammer should still be cocked.
Put the manual safety on and pull the trigger and the hammer should still stay cocked.
Take the safety off and pull the trigger and the hammer should fall.

Hold the trigger in again while cycling the slide. After the slide goes forward, continue to hold the trigger in but rotate your hand so it comes off the grip safety. Release the trigger and the grip safety should pop out.

These are standard checks for the 1911 pistol. Let me know what happens when you do each one. PM will work if you don't want to tie up this tread.

John

 

[John from MD]

Just remembered a barrel link request

Sorry, I forgot to give the barrel link check to someone who asked for it.

For a short link check, you do the following.
Take the barrel and link assy and turn it upside down. Take the slide stop and insert in halfway into the link. Move the link along the lugs to the stop. While holding he slide stop back against the stop, try to move the link sideways. If it will not move sideways easily, it is binding and needs to be fitted.

For a long link check you do the following. With the side off of the frame, insert the barrel and link into the frame and put the slide lock through the link. Push the barrel hard down and back against the frame. The barrel should fit all the way into the frame recess. If it does not, the link is too long.

This is a simple as I can make it but it isn't everything that can be regarding link fit. For instance, the lugs on the barrel may need to be filed instead of the link being too long. ( Brownells sells a tool)
For a short link, you can remove metal on the link if you know where instead of changing it.

I suggest you try to get it right by changing parts unless you are a machinist or have good mechanical skills.

Brownells has links.

Additionally. When the barrel is all the way out of battery and seated properly in the frame, you should see at least 1/32 of an inch of frame behind the barrel. A little more is ok but less will lead to jams. Don't try to adjust this space until the link is properly fitted.

Regards,

John