1917 Eddystone 30-06

BigSteve57 · May 21, 2011

My wife and I have just inherited a 1917 Eddystone 30-06! It was received by my wife's "pappy" after WW II in cosmoline and has been fired a few times per year ever since mostly during deer hunting season. Basically it has spent its entire life sitting in the corner of a basement.

There are a few dings on the stock but it seems remarkably free of rust. I have shot it in the past and I would say it is fairly accurate. What I want to do is have it examined by someone familiar with these old rifles and if necessary, maybe have it repaired/restored.

Any suggestions for a gunsmith ?
I'd be willing to travel a fair distance for someone great.

Thanks in advance.

zoostation · May 21, 2011

Would suggest you PM member Clandestine and see if he can take the work. He is in Glen Burnie.

You should also be aware that if it is in original military condition (i.e. without the stock or barrel being cut down for hunting, aftermarket sights being welded on or drilled and tapped for a hunting scope, etc.) that "restoring" it will considerably reduce its value.

aquaman · May 21, 2011

BigSteve57 said:
My wife and I have just inherited a 1917 Eddystone 30-06! It was received by my wife's "pappy" after WW II in cosmoline and has been fired a few times per year ever since mostly during deer hunting season. Basically it has spent its entire life sitting in the corner of a basement.

There are a few dings on the stock but it seems remarkably free of rust. I have shot it in the past and I would say it is fairly accurate. What I want to do is have it examined by someone familiar with these old rifles and if necessary, maybe have it repaired/restored.

Any suggestions for a gunsmith ?
I'd be willing to travel a fair distance for someone great.

Thanks in advance.

Dont alter it if it's in original condition. If it works I would not bother with taking it to a gunsmith. Clean in up and oil it. And post some pics

Darkemp · May 21, 2011

As long as there are no modifications to the receiver (cut "ears" from the sight block or drill and tap for scope mount) you can correctly restore it to military condition even if the stock is chopped or it is missing the collars or handguards which are relatively easy to replace. Post some pics and everyone here will be able to tell you if it is a candidate for a correct restoration or just a shooter.

BigSteve57 · May 21, 2011

zoostation said:
Would suggest you PM member Clandestine and see if he can take the work. He is in Glen Burnie.

You should also be aware that if it is in original military condition (i.e. without the stock or barrel being cut down for hunting, aftermarket sights being welded on or drilled and tapped for a hunting scope, etc.) that "restoring" it will considerably reduce its value.

Mark392001 said:
As long as there are no modifications to the receiver (cut "ears" from the sight block or drill and tap for scope mount) you can correctly restore it to military condition even if the stock is chopped or it is missing the collars or handguards which are relatively easy to replace. Post some pics and everyone here will be able to tell you if it is a candidate for a correct restoration or just a shooter.

I guess "restoration" was maybe too strong a word. I and absolutely sure it has not been altered in any way. I would not want to modify it in any way either. I guess what I meant to say is I'd like to have it looked at by someone competent for evaluation, safety, cleaning etc... and if there are any questionable parts to have them replaced. Maybe even have the stock refinished. Of course, I have no idea of the cost for any of this.

Here's the pics - hope they're OK:

aquaman · May 21, 2011

very nice, its all original. oil it up, rub the rear site real good with oil on a rag and it will clean up the rust.

BigSteve57 · May 21, 2011

aquaman said:
very nice, its all original. oil it up, rub the rear site real good with oil on a rag and it will clean up the rust.

Ok - sounds like that's all I really need to do.

I have gotten some excellent messages via PM that suggested not having the stock sanded/refinished because it could erase armorer markings etc...

Not having any idea what that meant I took a close look and saw the marking "RIA FK 3" which I never noticed before.

See, this is why I'm checking & asking so carefully.
First - I want to do no harm!!!

LostSoul · May 21, 2011

Nice rifle! Definitely don't refinish the stock, just clean it up and rub in a coat or three of linseed or tung oil.

RT468 · May 21, 2011

Took some of my older stuff to Charles Maloney to have checked out.He's only a couple of blocks away from me in Catonsville and came highly recommended by others.Believe his site is www.charliemaloney.com. I can say the work he did for me was priced well and my rifles are more capable than my shooting abilities allow for.He will do techs inspections without doing rebuilds or other work for a modest fee.

Jimbob2.0 · May 21, 2011

BigSteve57 said:
Ok - sounds like that's all I really need to do.

I have gotten some excellent messages via PM that suggested not having the stock sanded/refinished because it could erase armorer markings etc...

Not having any idea what that meant I took a close look and saw the marking "RIA FK 3" which I never noticed before.

See, this is why I'm checking & asking so carefully.
First - I want to do no harm!!!

Really really nice gun. As noted above dont get crazy. Its in nice original condition, I would start by tearing it down, put the stock aside for the moment and focus on the metal. CLP and a rag first, excessive rust spots can then be worked wiht 0000 brass or steel wool. But if its been in cosmo, I suspect it isnt to bad, generally a cosmod gun can look like i has rust spots as the cosmo stick in poors etc. Make sure you spend a fair amount of time at the chamber, as if you choose to fire it this is where the biggest problems can be. Getting a round stuck in the chamber is bad mojo and you can even get overpressure and kabooms.

I generally run CLP thourgh it and take a toothbrush and just brush away, if it has a crevice where the barrel meets the receiver (Like mosins and mausers) it is best to take a bent pipe cleaner and work the cosmo out.

I could rounds of solvent down the bore and you are good.

I have never used hotwater or gas on a cosmo'd gun but have never cleaned one out that was totally kaked either.

The wood, probably best to wipe it down with oil and let it be for now. If you want you can get bold and start steaming out dings but who wants a gun that looks brand new?

Darkemp · May 21, 2011

It's a WWII rearsenal. The RIA stamp on the stock is the armory that did the refurbish. The barrel likely should have an H.S. (High Standard), or JA stamp with a flaming bomb mark if it was replaced. These rifles were stored poorly by the US between World Wars and as such needed to be reworked to reenter service.

Threeband · May 21, 2011

LostSoul said:
Nice rifle! Definitely don't refinish the stock, just clean it up and rub in a coat or three of linseed or tung oil.

I would gently clean the wood with some mineral spirits on a paper towel. Just take off the surface dirt without removing any finish.

Then I would rub it down with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO- the correct original finish.)

You can get both Mineral Spirits and BLO in the paint department of Home Depot. I do like pure Tung Oil, but you pretty much have to get that mail order. The "Tung Oil Finish" they sell in stores is actually a varnish- it's not real tung oil. Besides, BLO was the original correct finish for these rifles, and was the correct oil authorized for maintainance of later GI rifles, such as the M1.

I take just a few drops of oil, spread it with my fingers, then rub very briskly with the palm of my hand. The friction builds heat, which helps the oil penetrate. Some people gently heat the oil, apparently for the same reason. I've never done that, but I'll bet it's a good technique.

Remove excess oil with paper towels, and flush them down the toilet. Or oily rags can be put in an old paint can filled with water, and stuck in someone's trash can at least a block from your house, on a dark and moonless night. BLO oily rags do spontaneously combust.

Nice Eddystone, by the way! It looks nicer than my mixmaster. You really should come on out to this match,

http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=52200

2011 Maryland Rifle Club C&R matches at AGC

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DATES: All matches will be held rain or shine.

Saturday, May 7, 2011
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Saturday, October 8, 2011
Saturday, November 12, 2011

COURSE OF FIRE: All stages will be fired at the distance of 200 yards using standard NRA SR high power targets. All stages will be slow fire; there will be no rapid fire stages in this match. Targets will be pulled and scored after each shot.

The match will consist of three stages.

First Stage: Prone – up to 5 sighting shots plus 10 shots slow fire for record
Second Stage: Sitting (or kneeling) – 10 shots slow fire for record
Third Stage: Offhand (standing) – 10 shots slow fire for record
Scores will be recorded on the basis of a maximum possible of 300 aggregate pints (100 points for each stage.) X’s will be used to break ties.

SLING USAGE: Slings may only be used in prone and sitting positions.
LOCATION: The 200 yard range, at the Associated Gun Clubs of Baltimore range facilities.

Have some fun, and meet people. It's a very informal, easy-going fun match, and it will give you a great chance to shoot on a really nice range. You might even decide to become a member.

-------------------------------

---------------------------------

Lou45 · May 21, 2011

Threeband said:
Oily rags can be put in an old paint can filled with water, and stuck in someone's trash can at least a block from your house, on a dark and moonless night. BLO oily rags do spontaneously combust.

So YOU were the one that caused my garbage can to catch on fire last week; I had NO explanation to the FD how that got in there :lol2:

AC MkIII · May 21, 2011

Very nice.
I have been on the fence to try and get a 1917 Eddystone.

guthook · May 21, 2011

Dude, sweet gun. Don't F it up.

BigSteve57 · May 22, 2011

guthook said:
Dude, sweet gun. Don't F it up.

Yeah - I'm doing my best not do as you say. Ahem. The folks in this thread have been really great. I appreciate the advise & time everyone has taken.

The rifle has a lot of sentimental value to me. It was my wife's father's rifle and he taught me to shoot with it up on their farm in PA waaaay back in 1982. It was the first rifle I ever shot!

BTW, I took it out to AGC yesterday and I was able to shoot 1 1/4 groups from the bench. That really surprised me. With a 6 o clock hold it shot 4 inches high and 3 inches to the left at 100 yds on a 100 yard official military target SR1. Ammo I had on hand and used was Remington Express Core Lokt 180 gr. A friend of mine took a few shots and got similar results. I didn't mess with the rear ladder or adjust the windage as I want to clean & lube it first.

I'll get a sling on it and I want to get back to the range to practice practice practice.

Oh and what I thought was rust was in some cases simply yellow mold!

Again, thanks to all for their advice. It's really great to see that there's a group that appreciates these old service rifles. Other guys that saw me out hunting with it used to laugh at me for carrying "that old piece of war junk". It's funny though, I bagged as much or more game than they did. :innocent0

Threeband · May 22, 2011

Sergeant York bagged a lot of Germans with an identical rifle!

The '17 is no slouch.

By the way, that "yellow mold" was very likely cosmoline.

BlackBart · May 22, 2011

Double barrel ugly and heavy BUT they were great rifles. :thumbsup:

They just reek of being STRONG actions.

6cylrider98 · May 23, 2011

Charles does very good work esp on M1s and M1As. My M1 is very nice now.

BigSteve57 · Aug 5, 2011

I’ve been out shooting & practicing with this rifle and it consistently groups as shown in the top photo. That group was shot from a bench with a 6 o-clock hold at 100yds. EDIT: The Hornady ammo was used as shown in the top photo.

Loads I’ve tried (the first two I use in my M1 Garand, the third I use for hunting):
1) Federal American Eagle 150 gr FMJ (AE3006M1)
2) Hornady 168 gr A-MAX MATCH (#81170)
3) Remington Express 180gr Core-Lokt PSP (R30065)

I’m OK with the height but I’d love to adjust the the windage.

I was thinking of adjusting the front sight with the BARSKA AK/SKS FRONT SIGHT ADJUSTMENT TOOL
(http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=41963/Product/AK_SKS_FRONT_SIGHT_ADJUSTMENT_TOOL)
which I understand can be filed down to fit through the front sight “loops”.

However, I noticed that the front sight is center punched in the center as shown in close-up photos 2 & 3.

Q1) What’s the deal with the center punch?
Q2) Should I even attempt adjusting the sight or is this better left to a gunsmith?
Q3) Just forget about it?

Thanks in advance.

PS: I did go to the June 11, 2011 Maryland Rifle Club C&R match at AGC but I shot my Garand . I also had a great time!

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