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Old August 9th, 2010, 07:28 AM   #1
SCARCQB
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AR15- Live round stuck in the chamber

Yesterday, while at the range , a shooting buddy had a live round stuck inside the chamber with the bolt partially closing, but never went into full battery. The charging handle wont operate and the rifle completely jammed.

This maybe due to an out of spec reloads or a dry AR.

TIPS:

If you encounter this kind of jam... Do not panic. and do not use any kind of tool...yet.

MORTAR THE RIFLE: ( IF YOU OWN AN AR.. THIS IS A MUST READ...It can save your life or prevent injury)

With the muzzle pointed Up, Pull down on the stuck charging handle while you slam the butt of the rifle down on a flat surface. Inertia from this action , in most cases ...is sufficient enough to dislodge/ extract the stuck round.( to protect the rifle from scratches, slam it on a towel or your buddy's foot, In Duty or combat... just mortar the darn thing, preferably,on the enemy's head)

here is a more detailed procedure:
Follow these steps to help get that stuck round/case out:

Step 1: Remove the magazine from the rifle (if you have the BB installed), and flip on the safety if you are able to.

Step 2:Find a solid surface and put a piece of carpet or a floor mat on the surface so you do not mar up your butt stock / butt plate or even crack the buttplate. If there is a live round in chamber Treat the rifle as a loaded ready to fire rifle and make doubly sure that you are doing this in a safe area or in your backyard. Safety is flipped on (if you can flip it).

Step 3: If the round is partially out of chamber, apply some sort of lubricant down the barrel like CLP or even WD40. Give it about minute to go down the barrel and into the chamber.

Step 4: If your rifle has a collapsible stock, collapse it down all the way.Damage to the stock can occur if this is not done.

Step 5: Next, while the rifle is pointed up, raise the rifle approx. 6 inches from the ground and push the rifle down with a little force like you are hammering the carpet with your AR, and at the same time pull down on the charging handle. Don't hammer it down hard, just enough to help get the inertia going to help pull down the charging handle/bolt.

Step 6: Repeat if the round did not pop out the first time. Typically after the 2nd or 3rd attempt you will get movement and the round should pop out. If this does not work, try to go higher like 8-10 inches to create a stronger force/inertia, again while you are pulling down on the charging handle.

Step 7: Once you get the round/case clear from the chamber, Clean and Lubricate the rifle, and since it is an AR, keep the rifle lubricated at all times.

( From Addax tactical)

Also,
Never try to dislodge a live round or a stuck case in an AR with the bolt closed. That is like trying to open a bank vault with a toothpick.


Below:

Dry Bolt Group... Action is partially locked. Mortaring your rifle can clear these difficult jams quickly. ( Plus,, Lube the damn thing... afterall, it's an AR)
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Old August 9th, 2010, 07:35 AM   #2
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Thanks for the information. What is the best lube for the AR-15?


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Old August 9th, 2010, 07:38 AM   #3
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Thanks for the information. What is the best lube for the AR-15?
That question is a hot topic. I will refrain from making any suggestions on that.

Personally.. I use Mobil1 synthetic motor oil and eezox. From experience, Any kind of lubricant will keep your AR running... you can run it dirty, as long as you run it lubricated. DI rifles also tend to vaporize the lubrication on the bolt carrier. A couple of drops of oil on the carrier during a long shooting session helps your AR function with the reliability of an AK.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 07:45 AM   #4
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Gents,

This is a common occurrence with steel cased ammo such as Wolf particularly in very warm weather and/or under a heavy firing sequence where the weapon really heats up. The steel cases do not expand and contract like brass. The mortaring procedure is the answer...make sure you are safe and inform RSOs if present. Many folks aren't familiar with this malfunction drill, so be cognizant. Heavy lube with a good product like Slip EWL will help but it can still happen.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 08:07 AM   #5
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This is very good information to share from some words of experience.

I remember at one of our early shoots seeing 3rdRcn solve someone's problem with their rifle in a similar manner and, being unfamiliar with the procedure, thought he was really abusing the thing out of frustration


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Old August 9th, 2010, 08:14 AM   #6
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Holy crap did you just pull that bcg out of the bay or something?


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Old August 9th, 2010, 08:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norton View Post
This is very good information to share from some words of experience.

I remember at one of our early shoots seeing 3rdRcn solve someone's problem with their rifle in a similar manner and, being unfamiliar with the procedure, thought he was really abusing the thing out of frustration
+1! The first time I took out my brand spankin' new AR, I had this problem. I was shown the mortar "Butt Slam" technique and it worked like a charm...


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Old August 9th, 2010, 08:58 AM   #8
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I had this problem last year and was able to get onto the forum from my phone and get help ASAP while at the shooting location. Turns out my AR just doesn't like wolf ammo, I get 2 mags in and its jamapalooza..


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Old August 9th, 2010, 09:00 AM   #9
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Good topic SCAR and you gave excellent instructions too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneck View Post
I had this problem last year and was able to get onto the forum from my phone and get help ASAP while at the shooting location. Turns out my AR just doesn't like wolf ammo, I get 2 mags in and its jamapalooza..
That can be fixed.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 09:01 AM   #10
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Good topic SCAR and you gave excellent instructions too.




That can be fixed.
Really??? Its a 5.45 M&P AR, damn thing loves the corrosive stuff just hates wolf.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 09:06 AM   #11
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Really??? Its a 5.45 M&P AR, damn thing loves the corrosive stuff just hates wolf.
Ok, now thats odd.

First thing is, is the chamber Chromed or not, is it rough in the chamber, and do you have an extractor insert?

From there a H Buffer will modify the dwell time and shoulf improve function.

I cant recall for sure, but didnt you let the gun get a little corroded? Did the chamber, barrel extension, or bolt face get corroded?
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Old August 9th, 2010, 09:17 AM   #12
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Ok, now thats odd.

First thing is, is the chamber Chromed or not, is it rough in the chamber, and do you have an extractor insert?

From there a H Buffer will modify the dwell time and shoulf improve function.

I cant recall for sure, but didnt you let the gun get a little corroded? Did the chamber, barrel extension, or bolt face get corroded?
The bolt face was fine, but the extension had a small amount of corrosion on it. Since then there has never been an issue, I learned to treat all ammo as corrosive regardless of what the company selling it says.

When I get home I will pull the gun out and answer your first 3 questions.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:38 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Norton View Post
This is very good information to share from some words of experience.

I remember at one of our early shoots seeing 3rdRcn solve someone's problem with their rifle in a similar manner and, being unfamiliar with the procedure, thought he was really abusing the thing out of frustration

3rdRcn was just being 3rdRcn. the typical non- BS, straight to the point approach in solving an issue. He must be a Marine.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:55 PM   #14
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Had this happen last week with Wolf and an LWRC rifle. But nothing would clear the round. Had to go back the next day with a rod down the muzzle. Thankfully the round already fired -- it was just a stuck case.

I am not religious about cleaning but never let things dry out. When I cleaned it there was a bunch of red primer sealer in there. Like glue.

I dumped Wolf/steel and am better about cleaning. Bought enough Slip 2K for a platoon (rifle was lubed with CLP at the time).

Brass is about the same price as steel 12 months ago. And dropping. Thank God.

Last edited by Patrick; August 9th, 2010 at 12:56 PM. Reason: iPhone fingers
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Old August 9th, 2010, 01:03 PM   #15
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I was in that situation last month while shooting my AR at Delta. A round was stuck in the chamber and the bolt wouldn't move. Tried pulling the charging handle lots of time, but it wouldn't move. Good thing there was a guy there (with bigger muscles), placed the rifle stock on the table, pulled the charging handle and cleared the round. Oh yes, I was using Wolf.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 01:29 PM   #16
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I posted this information due to the reason that this type of malfunction is getting to be a common event in ranges and there are only a few people around that actually know what to do. It is unsafe to drive home with a loaded rifle. As an AR shooter, this drill must become second nature and practiced as an add-on to S.P.O.R.T.S. The prevalence of steel cased ammo and reloads also aggravate the situation.

Nice thing about the Mortaring technique is that size does not matter. use inertia to your advantage.

If you shoot Wolf or any other steel cased ammo. It is a good idea to upgrade the extractor by installing a crane type o-ring to augment extractor tension. ( a 25 cent o-ring from home depot also works)

Also, if you are going to use brass and steel cased ammo... Fire the brass cased stuff first. followed by steel. Brass does not leave a gummy residue on the chamber and expands/ contracts better than steel. Steel cased stuff has to be lubricated to prevent rust and assist in the extraction/ feed process. it also does not expand as well as brass cases.

If deposits from the lacquer or polymer from steel ammo builds up. firing brass cased ammo in that chamber will cause the brass to expand and get cauterized onto the chamber wall. This can often result in a separated base that can only be taken out by using an appropriate extractor. ( broken shell extractor is a must have on your gear bag if you fire steel cased ammo). Wolf is also loaded a bit weaker compared to premium ammo.

I have also taken the extra effort in hand lapping/ polishing the chambers on all my AR rifles. That enhances feed and extraction , making it reliable with steel cased fodder. Wolff extractor and crane o-rings also help a lot.

Stagger the notches on the gas rings, make sure that the bolt key is staked on correctly and the Front sight bases are perfectly mounted and aligned with the gas port.

Last, Lube your rifle... You can use just about anything, yup... even bacon grease. Run it dirty, but run it lubricated. I've experimented with Dry lubricants/ teflon/ graphite... most are snakeoil. I use mobil 1 synthetic. Other will chime in as what works best. Tip: listen to the older guys that have been there and done that.

So... happy shooting with that AR... and if a malfunctions occur .... look for the nearest MDS member to render assistance.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:09 PM   #17
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I only use Mobil 1 for lube at this point. I run my rifles hard and have yet to have an issue since I switched.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:27 PM   #18
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3rdRcn also did this at Elk Neck at least one time.


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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:35 PM   #19
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When you go to the parts store to get the Mobil 1 for your AR, do they still ask you if it's 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive?
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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:40 PM   #20
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When you go to the parts store to get the Mobil 1 for your AR, do they still ask you if it's 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive?
No but if they ask:

Tell them it has one Noveske Cylinder and 30 domed pistons, the crank is Made by BCM, and the Block is Colt, Valves are made my magpul and are high flow.

For long races you have a Beta Fuel Tank.

Seriously, Syn. Motor Oil is FAR superior to many gun oils on the AR. Syn. Motor Oil does not burn off like other gun oils do.
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