Colts are great and Lou had them priced right. However, I recently picked up a Windham and it is a very good rifle.
Ar-15
- Thread starter bowoah
- Start date
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bkuether
Judge not this race .....
Honestly, just get the HBAR already assembled. Now that lowers are legal again you can build one in your spare time. For now, just get either a Colt or Windham HBAR. The IPs mentioned are both good. They work exceptionally hard for very slim margins. Support our IPs, it is the right thing to do. You can do it cheaper ordering from internet vendors, but you still have to do transfers, shipping, and then building. Your time is worth something! Buy it, shoot it, put it away for the winter, get a lower and build it as a seasonal project. My 2cents.
punisher12b
Active Member
I vote Engage they have always helped me out with info/knowledge and supply help fuel my nuttier builds
Vile Shadow
...
- Feb 28, 2013
- 28,953
Engage is good people. They will treat you right as well.
I've never dealt with 'em, but you also have Keep Shooting, down there in the 'Dorf.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=25369
I've never dealt with 'em, but you also have Keep Shooting, down there in the 'Dorf.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=25369
How difficult is a build? Would i save $? I would hate to get started then get stuck. What's the difficulty rating and what know how should I already possess? When you say seasonal project will it take a while?
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The build is easy. Can you save money- sure. A budget build can be done for 600ish.
However, if you're like me, you budget build ends up getting a JP handguard, NiBo bolt, high end trigger, etc- you'll end up with a $1500 rifle in no time! (But you did build it.)
I'm putting my AR57 together in Thursday- so excited!
So would you recommend a place to shop. I'm a Marylander so you know. Or could you recommend a site. I'm going to get started anything close to $600 sounds great.
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I do a lot of my online shopping with Www.joeboboutfitters.com they have outstanding customer service.
To remain on the correct side of the law, you will need a stripped lower that will have to be transfered by a FFL in your state (MD). Because it's being purchased post 10/1/13 you'll need to build it as an HBAR, >29" overall length, and to avoid running afoul of NFA laws a barrel length of 16" or greater.
Search for "ar15 lower assembly" on you tube. You'll see how easy it is. Lots of great info on this site, and while I'm no expert, you're welcome to PM me with any questions you might not feel comfortable asking the collective.
The first one is cheap..... (well not always) but if you get hooked before you know it you have several stripped lowers sitting in your safe next to several built rifles, and pistols, and shotguns.... soon you'll be looking for a lawyer to draw up a NFA trust to make some little brothers for the AR'S, and you can't have them noisy, so supressed is the way to go. Well...
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
KeepShooting are good people. Mario looks intimidating, but he's a great guy to deal with. 
If it's built as a rifle, still has to be an HBAR profile barrel.
If it's built as a rifle, still has to be an HBAR profile barrel.
Armadillofz1
Ultimate Member
Lou is an Industry Partner (Shooter's Discount) and his FFL shop is in Mt Airy.
He is TOP NOTCH.
http://www.mdshooters.com/showthread.php?t=48557
Bring Dr. Pepper and brownies vaguely shaped like Sarah Palin, for the best discount.
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
The lower build it pretty easy. The upper a bit harder. But it all depends on your personal mechanical skills. If you are the type that struggles with changing a light bulb, don't try to build a rifle.
Also, the lower can be built with a few punches, a light hammer, and a screwdriver or hex driver (depends on the grip screw) and a stock wrench.
The upper requires a few specialized tools to hold the upper safely, and to torque on the barrel nut. Also, if a free float handguard, may need a spanner for that. If a pinned gas block, a bench block is nice.
Also, the lower can be built with a few punches, a light hammer, and a screwdriver or hex driver (depends on the grip screw) and a stock wrench.
The upper requires a few specialized tools to hold the upper safely, and to torque on the barrel nut. Also, if a free float handguard, may need a spanner for that. If a pinned gas block, a bench block is nice.
bkuether
Judge not this race .....
The lower build it pretty easy. The upper a bit harder. But it all depends on your personal mechanical skills. If you are the type that struggles with changing a light bulb, don't try to build a rifle.
Also, the lower can be built with a few punches, a light hammer, and a screwdriver or hex driver (depends on the grip screw) and a stock wrench.
The upper requires a few specialized tools to hold the upper safely, and to torque on the barrel nut. Also, if a free float handguard, may need a spanner for that. If a pinned gas block, a bench block is nice.
THIS ^^^^^ By the time you get all the stuff, you will end up paying very close to the same as an outright purchase, especially if you go Windham. You can build a lower with nothing more than one punch. I know because I did it.... Building a lower is fun. Should take about 2 hours max first effort if you take your time and are careful. Operative word. CAREFUL. Otherwise it will get scratched up and you will be pissed off.
If you are dead set on building, do the lower yourself, and buy a completed upper assembly. You can still get in around $700 if you catch a deal.
Some things to consider initially so you don't have to assemble then re-assemble.
-Correct sized punches. Know before you go. Get the right sized punch so you don't have try and find one half way through your build. $6 (individual) to $35 (set)
-Grip, the standard AR grip is the first thing most people change. I have small hands and even I hate it. $20
-Trigger guard, upgrade to enhanced. More room for your fingers, you can use the gun in the cold with gloves. And it is smoother. $8
-Stock, standard stock is just OK. The Magpul stocks are really nice. You can do this one later because it slips right off the tube. $50-100
- Feb 17, 2011
- 14,024
Yep building one does not have a cost savings but the when you are done you have a custom rifle. You can buy the aforementioned 700 rifle but after you make all the changes to get it where you like it, it most likely will be cheaper to build it.
cotman68
Active Member
Since this is your first AR , I would build the lower and buy a complete upper for it . Then buy another lower and build a complete rifle and don't stop until u need a big 48 gun safe !
- Feb 4, 2013
- 28,175
$700 is pretty easy. How I did it:
$100 for Anderson lower (Duffy's or The Bank, in stock).
$485 for Anderson .300 Blackout upper (they can also do an HBAR 5.56 upper)
$91 for Anderson Rifle Completion Kit (all lower parts, including buffer tube, buffer, spring, and buttstock).
Total $676.
I suggest the proper size Roll Pin Starters and Roll Pin Punches. You need a #3 and #4 Roll Pin Starter, and a 3/32" and 1/8" Roll Pin Punch.
$100 for Anderson lower (Duffy's or The Bank, in stock).
$485 for Anderson .300 Blackout upper (they can also do an HBAR 5.56 upper)
$91 for Anderson Rifle Completion Kit (all lower parts, including buffer tube, buffer, spring, and buttstock).
Total $676.
I suggest the proper size Roll Pin Starters and Roll Pin Punches. You need a #3 and #4 Roll Pin Starter, and a 3/32" and 1/8" Roll Pin Punch.
- Aug 17, 2011
- 26,177
If you want to build an upper, there may be a few members close by that can show you how it's done.
