- Oct 8, 2007
- 19,012
Looking for Gun Photography Tips [pic heavy]
- Thread starter MacGuns
- Start date
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mxrider
Former MSI Treasurer
Really makes me want to learn how to use my Canon EOS Rebel....even if it is 8 years old.
Landwarrior
Member
There are a number of reasons people hide the serial number for a firearm
1) To prevent the possibility of someone (ex-spouse, pissed-off friend, or just some jerk) to call in that serial number as stolen. Which will case all kinds of problems for you when it pops up on a serial number search run by a dealer or police department.
2) To prevent someone from using the serial number for a false insurance claim. Since they more than likely have photos of the firearm also, they have even more evidence of ownership.
3) To prevent someone from using a legitimate serial number on a stolen gun of the same type by restamping the that firearm with the legit serial number.
4) To prevent someone from restamping a serial number that adds value. Case in point restamping a Remington 1903A3 receiver with a serial number for a 1903A4
They are probably more reasons...
1) To prevent the possibility of someone (ex-spouse, pissed-off friend, or just some jerk) to call in that serial number as stolen. Which will case all kinds of problems for you when it pops up on a serial number search run by a dealer or police department.
2) To prevent someone from using the serial number for a false insurance claim. Since they more than likely have photos of the firearm also, they have even more evidence of ownership.
3) To prevent someone from using a legitimate serial number on a stolen gun of the same type by restamping the that firearm with the legit serial number.
4) To prevent someone from restamping a serial number that adds value. Case in point restamping a Remington 1903A3 receiver with a serial number for a 1903A4
They are probably more reasons...
toolness1
Ultimate Member
Don't forget about government employees scouring all these forums and making a database of all of our firearms based on the pics we post.
I didn't see this covered but... when I shoot on white, I try to raise my subject from the actual paper/muslin I'm shooting on. It's no different than when shooting people. You wouldn't let your subject sit against a wall, why would you let your gun sit directly on top of your backdrop either? Unless your backdrop is interesting and can hide weird shadows created by your lighting.
This is just my take on it and how I do it. Do it how you think works best because it might spark someone else to try something different
The lower below is actually sitting atop three pieces of brass so the shallow depth of field can give way to some background separation. Kind of highlighting the subject in question.
Here I laid the pistol on top of bullets on top of a black background. You can see how there isn't the same level of background separation.
If your lighting is directional and you're shooting on white, you'll get a shadow if your subject is ON the paper. But unless you're shooting product photography where it's going to be cutout and put on a white background, you might or might not want the shadow.
Sometimes you want simple and black so you use harder lighting...
It's best to shoot with a vision of the end product in mind. Hope that helps!
This is just my take on it and how I do it. Do it how you think works best because it might spark someone else to try something different
The lower below is actually sitting atop three pieces of brass so the shallow depth of field can give way to some background separation. Kind of highlighting the subject in question.
Here I laid the pistol on top of bullets on top of a black background. You can see how there isn't the same level of background separation.
If your lighting is directional and you're shooting on white, you'll get a shadow if your subject is ON the paper. But unless you're shooting product photography where it's going to be cutout and put on a white background, you might or might not want the shadow.
Sometimes you want simple and black so you use harder lighting...
It's best to shoot with a vision of the end product in mind. Hope that helps!
Nkray
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 6
Wow, those photos are amazing! It really makes me want to get out and shoot more! Both guns and camera
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
RapidShotPhotos
Member
Thank you for the great tips on the bore shots! I'm going to give this a try
zombiehunter
Ultimate Member
- Jul 8, 2008
- 6,505
For those talking about their "cheapish" or "older" cameras and worrying they're substandard:
I learned on a Nikon D40 with kit lenses. I've taken some pictures I'm damned proud of, largely/entirely because composition usually trumps camera specs. The D40 is basically the FIRST consumer level DSLR. I maintain that I can shoot just about anything with that set up. What you start getting with "better" lenses and bodies is the ability to access settings faster so you don't miss shots. Newer algorithms for focusing and yes...more megapixels. But megapixels don't matter for as much as you may think.
I also have a D90 which is a last generation "prosumer" level camera with switches and buttons for most settings and adjustments and I'd be very confident shooting a wedding or anything that important with it.
For anyone getting into DSLR photography I'd recommend buying used as your money will go MUCH farther than buying new. For $1000 you can get a D90 body, 18-200 lens, 50mm prime and a SB800 flash as well as all the little stuff that you'll invariably need. With that set up and PRACTICE you can shoot anything. The same money would buy you a D5200 with kit lens and you'll cuss and swear as you fumble through menus looking for ISO and metering options instead of pushing a button and spinning a wheel and getting where you need to be.
OP I like the pics. I really like the DoF on the bolt handle one. I think the quickie down bore shot you posted is blown up too big/cropped too much. This is an example of where more megapixels is better. But how often are you really going to be asked to take a half inch center out of a picture and blow it up to 10 inches wide? At that point it's more about zooming in so that half inch is already a majority of the frame, which then requires higher end/specialized lenses.
Reading what others have done, how they've done it and practicing is infinitely more important than having the newest D4 and 70-200vrii lens. I like kenrockwell.com and have learned a lot of stuff from him. I'm Nikon over Canon ONLY because it's what I learned on...I have a feeling that's how a lot of people pick one over the other...their friend who is into photography showed them on a ____ so they got a ____.
Keep tinkering man but yeah, get out of the basement and get some life into those pictures!
I learned on a Nikon D40 with kit lenses. I've taken some pictures I'm damned proud of, largely/entirely because composition usually trumps camera specs. The D40 is basically the FIRST consumer level DSLR. I maintain that I can shoot just about anything with that set up. What you start getting with "better" lenses and bodies is the ability to access settings faster so you don't miss shots. Newer algorithms for focusing and yes...more megapixels. But megapixels don't matter for as much as you may think.
I also have a D90 which is a last generation "prosumer" level camera with switches and buttons for most settings and adjustments and I'd be very confident shooting a wedding or anything that important with it.
For anyone getting into DSLR photography I'd recommend buying used as your money will go MUCH farther than buying new. For $1000 you can get a D90 body, 18-200 lens, 50mm prime and a SB800 flash as well as all the little stuff that you'll invariably need. With that set up and PRACTICE you can shoot anything. The same money would buy you a D5200 with kit lens and you'll cuss and swear as you fumble through menus looking for ISO and metering options instead of pushing a button and spinning a wheel and getting where you need to be.
OP I like the pics. I really like the DoF on the bolt handle one. I think the quickie down bore shot you posted is blown up too big/cropped too much. This is an example of where more megapixels is better. But how often are you really going to be asked to take a half inch center out of a picture and blow it up to 10 inches wide? At that point it's more about zooming in so that half inch is already a majority of the frame, which then requires higher end/specialized lenses.
Reading what others have done, how they've done it and practicing is infinitely more important than having the newest D4 and 70-200vrii lens. I like kenrockwell.com and have learned a lot of stuff from him. I'm Nikon over Canon ONLY because it's what I learned on...I have a feeling that's how a lot of people pick one over the other...their friend who is into photography showed them on a ____ so they got a ____.
Keep tinkering man but yeah, get out of the basement and get some life into those pictures!
spclopr8tr
Whatchalookinat?
I am suddenly motivated to NEVER take another photo of any of my firearms. 
RapidShotPhotos
Member
I have similar lighting problems photographing silver coins, direct lighting creates horrible hot spots and massive overexposures. I'm just beginning to experiment with indirect lighting and using mirrors to get the focus correct over various distances. Photograph the reflection in the mirror to get full focus at varied distances......Hitchcock used that little trick with moving subjects or cameras on many occassions.
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