Removing AR Gas Block

gungate · Jan 29, 2016

I watched videos on removing the A2 gas block and think I can handle it. I need to remove it because it is directly in front of the scope. I want to just have a flip up sight or some sort of backup picatinny sight that I can put on when needed. I was also looking at free float handguards. I think will combine a new handguard with the gas block replacement.

Can anyone recommend a free float handguard that won't break the bank? I will also lose the sling loop so I want to add that back with whatever configuration I end up going with.

And since I will be removing the flash hider, perhaps there is something better to replace that with as well?

Any advice appreciated.

DutchV · Jan 29, 2016

I would suggest shaving the front sight base and using it as just a gas block. It's pinned on, which is more sturdy than any replacement gas block would be. And it's free after a little effort with a Dremel tool.

There's tons of handguards available. I like Troy since it would attach to your existing barrel nut, once the front sight base is cut down.

amoebicmagician · Jan 29, 2016

have you checked to see if it occludes your view?

Often it does not. If it does you may need higher rings (nothing crazy, just medium or high rings) for proper cheek weld anyways, and with every scope I've ever used, at 2 power or greater the front sight was not visible.

My favorite shooter has an A2 gas block and a scope mounted behind it, nary a problem.

Also, as has been mentioned, if you replace the front sight you will have those unsightly pin holes, and your new gas block will NEVER be as secure as one that is taper pinned in place.

I have had really really good luck with clamp style gas blocks rather than set screw ones. Just apply some rocksett to the threads after spraying with brake cleaner and torque it down with a tiny bit or authority but not crazy...

A friend of mine broke the head off the screw on a setup like this after using a SHIT ton of red loctite and even banging with at first a rubber mallet, and then a hammer we could not get it to budge. We thought that there had been red loctite between the barrel and the block it's self, but this turned out to not be the case after we used a dremel cutting wheel to carefully sever the screw with the broken head.

iH8DemLibz · Jan 29, 2016

Keep the standard front sight base.

It won't be a problem with a scope. My set up has the base 8" in front of the scope. Totally invisible.

And Dremeling the base is a good idea if you go that route. That puppy is uber-secure.

gungate · Jan 29, 2016

Thanks all. The sight is just part of the larger re-build. I want the free-float handguards to be able to add rail accessories like a foregrip with a bipod in it. Also considering replacing the barrel anyway for a SS barrel without the launcher detent.

Also I want to do this build to become more familiar with my AR.

outrider58 · Jan 29, 2016

gungate said:
Thanks all. The sight is just part of the larger re-build. I want the free-float handguards to be able to add rail accessories like a foregrip with a bipod in it. Also considering replacing the barrel anyway for a SS barrel without the launcher detent.

Also I want to do this build to become more familiar with my AR.

You could replace the whole upper/barrel/rail and keep the existing upper(which is pretty much a bullet proof set-up) for HD and SHTF scenarios if you have the cash. That would be my recommendation.

amoebicmagician · Jan 29, 2016

what are the specs of the current barrel? Also, if you want a freefloat handguard, go ahead and chop the front sight rather than replace the gas block.

If you do replace the barrel, I'd go with Faxon or another good barrel supplier. The best cost-to-value ratio is always (for me at least) the salt bath nitrided barrels in 4140, or slightly better 4150

gungate · Jan 29, 2016

amoebicmagician said:
what are the specs of the current barrel? Also, if you want a freefloat handguard, go ahead and chop the front sight rather than replace the gas block.

If you do replace the barrel, I'd go with Faxon or another good barrel supplier. The best cost-to-value ratio is always (for me at least) the salt bath nitrided barrels in 4140, or slightly better 4150

That's a lot of chopping. I'd have to chop the bottom strap too since the handguard I am looking at covers the existing gas block.

It's a 16" (R4) Chrome Moly/Chrome lined 1/9 RRA barrel.

Hawkeye · Jan 29, 2016

One thing to look in to would be the VLTOR CASV series of handguards. The CASV-EL is designed to be used with a standard A2 front sight base. They are free-float and they install with the standard delta ring assembly (assuming you have a flattop upper). They also have attachment points for quick release sling swivels.

You can use one without doing any chopping or other modification to the rifle. Takes about five minutes to install.

Sticky · Jan 29, 2016

There are several handguards that work in conjunction with an A2 front sight. That sight is bulletproof and the gas block being pinned is a big bonus that you already have. You can remove and reinstall it simply enough to swap out the handguard if you want a freefloat railed hanguard. That is how I would do it, retain the A2 front sight and add a rear of your choice. I have an A2 sight on a scoped rifle and it does not occlude the view at all. QD mounts and I can instantly remove the scope and use just the sights, or with a lower power scope, shoot right through the scope using the irons.

MKR03 · Jan 29, 2016

outrider58 said:
You could replace the whole upper/barrel/rail and keep the existing upper(which is pretty much a bullet proof set-up) for HD and SHTF scenarios if you have the cash. That would be my recommendation.

gungate said:
Thanks all. The sight is just part of the larger re-build. I want the free-float handguards to be able to add rail accessories like a foregrip with a bipod in it. Also considering replacing the barrel anyway for a SS barrel without the launcher detent.

Also I want to do this build to become more familiar with my AR.

If your only reason for getting rid of the A2 FSP is that it blocks your view through the scope, I would shoot it as is a few times and see if you still feel that way. I bet you'll find that when you're focusing on the scope reticle, you won't notice the front sight at all. If you do decide to keep the FSP and still want a FF hand guard, check out the Daniel Defense Omega. It's the only FF rail that I know of that's drop-in and requires no modification (you don't have to remove the FSP or delta ring to install it).

Since you're considering making essentially a whole new upper (minus the receiver) I agree with outrider. Keep this upper as a spare, and do a new build. You would only end up paying about $100 more (for a stripped upper) and would end up with 2 complete uppers instead of one upper and a pile of parts.

gungate · Jan 29, 2016

MKR03 said:
If your only reason for getting rid of the A2 FSP is that it blocks your view through the scope, I would shoot it as is a few times and see if you still feel that way. I bet you'll find that when you're focusing on the scope reticle, you won't notice the front sight at all. If you do decide to keep the FSP and still want a FF hand guard, check out the Daniel Defense Omega. It's the only FF rail that I know of that's drop-in and requires no modification (you don't have to remove the FSP or delta ring to install it).

Since you're considering making essentially a whole new upper (minus the receiver) I agree with outrider. Keep this upper as a spare, and do a new build. You would only end up paying about $100 more (for a stripped upper) and would end up with 2 complete uppers instead of one upper and a pile of parts.

Now this I might do. Depends if I decide to do a barrel swap. That would probably put me over the edge to another complete upper. Then I can put this upper on another of my pile of lowers. I was trying to do a budget build though. Just a gas block swap, front flip up sight and a ff guard. Ideally would be nice to be under $300 for the entire project.

Oh I have shot this many times with the scope and the A2 sight and it isn't in the field of view at all. I really just wanted to remove it for aesthetic reasons and again, to more familiarize myself with the AR. I have done the lower, now I'd like to do the upper.

I'll set up a quick spreadsheet with some costs and see where I am.

amoebicmagician · Jan 29, 2016

gungate said:
That's a lot of chopping. I'd have to chop the bottom strap too since the handguard I am looking at covers the existing gas block.

It's a 16" (R4) Chrome Moly/Chrome lined 1/9 RRA barrel.

just get a good affordable salt bath nitride barrel for your build and keep the current one as a spare or for another build.

1/9 is my twist of choice though. I never shoot as accurate as I want to with 1/7s

c4snipar · Jan 29, 2016

Your scope will appear to be obstructing the view, but most likely it will not. Check out delta team tactical.

MKR03 · Jan 29, 2016

gungate said:
Now this I might do. Depends if I decide to do a barrel swap. That would probably put me over the edge to another complete upper. Then I can put this upper on another of my pile of lowers. I was trying to do a budget build though. Just a gas block swap, front flip up sight and a ff guard. Ideally would be nice to be under $300 for the entire project.

Oh I have shot this many times with the scope and the A2 sight and it isn't in the field of view at all. I really just wanted to remove it for aesthetic reasons and again, to more familiarize myself with the AR. I have done the lower, now I'd like to do the upper.

I'll set up a quick spreadsheet with some costs and see where I am.

Fair enough. I've done lots to my guns for aesthetic reasons/just because I feel like it. Keep in mind that if you decide to keep the barrel and swap the handguard, there's a good chance your going to have to remove the barrel nut (depending on what handguard you go with). Even if your FF handguard uses the standard barrel nut, you'll likely have to remove the delta ring assembly too. Not too difficult either way, but there are some tools you'll need to have on hand.

Whitey · Jan 29, 2016

I don't think I've had anything more than a "ghost" silhouette slightly visible in the sight picture. What magnification scope are you using?

gungate · Jan 30, 2016

Whitey said:
I don't think I've had anything more than a "ghost" silhouette slightly visible in the sight picture. What magnification scope are you using?

It aesthetically does not look good but functionally it isn't a big deal. Although I have never tried it longer than around 50 yards. Perhaps at a longer distance it would make more difference.

MKR03 · Jan 30, 2016

Maybe it's the angle playing tricks on my eyes, but that's a lot of scope on a carbine! Not saying there's anything wrong with it, but I see what you mean about the aesthetics bothering you. There's something that looks odd about the objective lens almost touching the FSP...

SCARCQB · Jan 30, 2016

I like the standard front sight. It is pinned. Really secured and reliable. It also will not shift zero like rail mounted front sights.

If your going with and extended rail. Like others have suggested. Cut the front sight so that it fits under the rail. The extra work will pay you back in reliability.

gungate · Jan 30, 2016

MKR03 said:
Maybe it's the angle playing tricks on my eyes, but that's a lot of scope on a carbine! Not saying there's anything wrong with it, but I see what you mean about the aesthetics bothering you. There's something that looks odd about the objective lens almost touching the FSP...

Nope - not your eyes, here is another.

This is a cheap generic 50mm zoom scope that was $50. There seriously are no markings at all on it and none were on the box. Included mounts and rings. First day I used it just clamping it on it was within 5" of center. A few adjustments later and it is very accurate. Lighted reticle both green and red graduated dimming.

I understand about the reliability of a pinned gas block but I really don't care that much about removing it I exclusively use the scope. The flip-up sights would just be for backup.

Removing AR Gas Block

The #1 community for Gun Owners of the Northeast

Member Benefits:

NRA Patron Member

Ultimate Member

Samopal Goblin

When All Else Fails.

NRA Patron Member

Eats Bacon Raw

Samopal Goblin

NRA Patron Member

The Leatherstocking

Beware of Dog

Active Member

NRA Patron Member

Samopal Goblin

Ultimate Member

Active Member

Collector and involved.

NRA Patron Member

Attachments

Active Member

Get Opp my rawn, Plick!

NRA Patron Member

Attachments

Users who are viewing this thread

Log in

Forum statistics